New guy buid

[MUDDUCK]

Building a 2010 jku? Already lifted on Mt 35 trying to figure out if I should plan on changing both front and rear axles. Only want to build once cry once. Needs to do brake,gears lockers and drive shafts.so before I spend the money which is the best way to go? Want to keep the new wheels in currently have??

[BlackKnight]

I'm literally getting mine built as we speak.

JKU, but what is the starting point? Is it a Sport, Sahara, or a Rubicon?

I literally am in the middle of my Axle change/upgrade. I have a 2013 Sport, and the upgrade is kinda being forced on me because of a detonated rear end that happened driving down the highway,

That said, I do have a budget, Imposed by my better half, so I can't go to 1-tons as they are WAY to much for me. So I went with built-up Rubicon Take outs...

Here is the list of all the things going onto the Axles (Parts transferring from my current build/axles marked with (TakeOut)

Axel, Both: (All Take out)
Powerstop Z36 Performance Brake Kit (Replacement Calipers, Carriers, Drilled and Slotted Rotors, Performance pads)EVO Front and Rear Extended Brake linesTerraflex Brake line anchors F/RPoison Spyder Bombshell Diff Armor Front/Rear
Metalcloak Bump stops F/R
Rubicon Express/Rough Country Bump Stop Extensions

Axle Front:
Rubicon OEM Front Axel (with Eaton E-Locker and 4:10 Gears)
EVO MFG ProTek Front Axle Truss Dana 44 | with EVO C2 Gussets
EVO MFG Front Control Arm Skids
American Iron Offroad Gen. 2 Ball Joint Delete System | D30/44
TEN Factory Front Axle Tube Seals
MetalCloak Outboard Shock Mount (Front) (TakeOut)
FOX 2.0 Steering Stabilizer(TakeOut)
Fox Steering Stabilizer Relocation Kit(TakeOut)
RockKrawler Sway bar Disconnects(TakeOut)
Adams Driveshaft Front 1350 CV Driveshaft Solid U-Joint

Axel, Rear:
Rubicon OEM Rear Axel (with Eaton E-Locker and 4:10 Gears)
EVO MFG ProTek Rear Axle Truss
EVO MFG Rock Star Control Arm/Shock end Skids (Rear)
Artec Rear Track Bar Bracket | Factory D44 Axle
Dana Spicer E-Locker Harness
Adams Driveshaft Rear 1350 CV Driveshaft Solid U-Joint

Cost-wise: looking like it will come in around $11-$12K
The Axles, Shipped from Jersey were $4k
Parts added, $3.5K (Purchased at the same place building the axles, Offroad Elements in Abington MA (ORE))
Finally, Labor looks like it should be around $4.5K (2K for installation, 1.4K for Welding of the Trusses and armor)

I'll try to recoup some with the sale of the D30 that I had, it's still in good shape, not bent, so I should be able to get $5-800 for it, but it may not come for a while.

I still have a couple upgrades coming, but as the better half already wants to kill me in my sleep, they will wait, but they are:
ChroMo Axles (maybe RCVs front) (Part cost only for these as I can do them in my Driveway)
ReGearing to 4.88, will have to be done at a Mechanic as I don't know how to do it, parts should be ~$500-800.

[MUDDUCK]

So you're starting with dana 44 front and rear ? What are they out of?

[BlackKnight]

So you're starting with dana 44 front and rear ? What are they out of?

They were pulled from a 2010 Rubicon. They are the OEM Rubi axles and internals (Dana 44 front and rear). I'm adding Trusses and other reinforcements to make them "mostly" Bomb proof. They aren't 1 ton, but with the reinforcements, they should be pretty strong...

D44s should be able to handle 37"s by themselves. 1 Ton axles are mostly for 40"s or bigger. I'm running Patagonia 38" MTs, so D44s with the Trussing will probably be even a bit overkill.

[MUDDUCK]

Appreciate the info thanks