Baystate Jeepers

Do what you want Chris but you will be fine with the PS diff covers.

Ahh, didn't quite ready the post well enough. That's kind of interesting, Haven't seen one in practice, so short of protecting the diff's bottom, and possibly making it easier to "slide" over things, I can't see a reason why it would be needed. It does not look like it comes out far enough to protect the Driveshaft CV/Universal joint and probably reduces clearance by at least an inch. so it's basically up to you. Sliding the diff over rocks does not damage it as much as you'd think, though catching the back edge could cause the dif cover to unseat/bend (if you don't have aftermarket covers).

So this is another one of the "Personal Preference" kind of things. Remember, Armor is great protection, but Driving ability is probably more important. Also more armor=more weight.

In my opinion what you gain from being able to slide over something you will lose by the little loss of ground clearance. I figure it’s a wash. If you are looking for something to protect I think the EVO Rock Stars are the one thing that improves and just not protects. It will get your rear shocks up higher out of the rocks and will skid if you do hit. After watching the stock shock mount hang up Jeff for over an hour a couple years ago I’ve paid attention to those things holding up others. Both my jeeps have them now.

RandyCarol wrote: ↑Wed Apr 15, 2020 11:52 am EVO Rock Stars

Been looking at the same, Did you get the weld on or the bolt-on versions? (Correcting myself, The Rockstar ones are Weld ons, the Protec are the bolt ons. Both require cutting though).

Minor cutting. Welded mine, just bolted Carols on

The underside of my diffs are probably half as thick as they were when it left the factory. I may end up trying to get something like this to help beef them back up. It would also save the bottom bolts from getting caked in rock dust that ends up like concrete.

Thanks for the opinions, I will mount up my poison spider diff covers and start there.

Chris

Finished the skid plates today:
Mounting the gas tank skid was super easy, I removed the rear passenger wheel to drill the back hole. I also had to jack up the driver rear wheel to get enough clearance around the driveshaft for drilling the rear hole. Using a jack to position all the panels made the install much easier. The transfer case skid did not mount all that seamlessly, the holes are probably 1/8" too close together from side to side. I was able to open the holes in the skid and get it to fit. The engine/oil pan skid install was seamless, the manual leaves a lot to be desired so figuring out how to get the bolts through the engine mount brackets was challenging. The mounting holes all lined up seamlessly and the brackets are very beefy.

I am a little concerned about how the ShrockWorks sliders will mount under these skidplates, but we will see once they arrive.

As I am crawling underneath the jeep, I can see that the rear axle has dented the exhaust pipe on the drivers side. This jeep has a Rough Country 2.5" spring lift on it right now. It has what appears to be the stock bump stops. I ordered the Metalcloak bump stops which you can see are much longer. I can also order the MetalCloak bump stop extension kit if it is needed.
Do I also need to purchase bump stop extensions? I am going to run 35x12.50 Maxxis Razr's on 4.5" backspacing wheels. RIght now I have stock fenders but am very close to buying Metalcloak or MCE fenders once the tires/rims arrive to see how much coverage I need. MetalCloak makes 3 different types of fenders, any pros/cons of the three different styles?

I guess I am going to rock the stock driveshaft for now, how do I know when I have a problem? Will the exhaust melt the rubber boot on the driveshaft?

I still have not ordered a solution for my EVAP canister. Is the Metalcloak the one to get?

Finally, did this upgrade over my morning coffee.
Chris

You are adding a lot of weight to a 2.5 lift for 35's. Make sure you bump stop it right. As for Metalcloak fenders I can not speak for a JK but on a TJ if you don't get the full corner guard and you get into a tree the metal fender does NOT give and you will cave in your rear quarter. But with that said you are adding even more weight with steel fenders. Just things you need to think about.

I have the Shrockworks sliders and I know what you are talking about them fitting. They will fit fine. I don’t have the gas tank skid so I actually put a spacer in that bolt hole spot so when I do add the skid it’s gapped correctly.

The MCE fenders are nice, if we ever get fenders for Carol it will be those. I have the Metal Cloak highlines. Main reason I got those was because I can remove them off road and got a set of extra wide ones to cover my tires for inspection. Downside is the salt in the winter will do a number on them.

MDSRACING398 wrote: ↑Sun Apr 26, 2020 8:14 pm You are adding a lot of weight to a 2.5 lift for 35's. Make sure you bump stop it right. As for Metalcloak fenders I can not speak for a JK but on a TJ if you don't get the full corner guard and you get into a tree the metal fender does NOT give and you will cave in your rear quarter. But with that said you are adding even more weight with steel fenders. Just things you need to think about.

Mark:

I was looking at the metal fenders based on some things you said in the past here about them being useful for supporting the jeep against rocks and trees. If I need fenders I will start with the plastic ones first.

Looks like I will order the bump stop extension kit as well.

I am very close to ordering the Metalcloak 3.5" game changer lift but am holding off at this point since I think it will also require a new driveshaft.

Randy, I assume the sliders install below the skidplates?

How about the evap skid? I like the Poison Spyder one, but I think the Metalcloak will be lighter in weight, to your point.

Chris

Yes, skid mounts between slider and frame.
I haven’t done anything with my evap yet, just got the Rock Hard one from Ken, he removed it to relocate evap over the axle. I believe he thinks that’s the way to go. You won’t need the additional lift with either sets of fenders if you are doing it for tire clearance.

RandyCarol wrote: ↑Sun Apr 26, 2020 10:19 pm Yes, skid mounts between slider and frame.
I haven’t done anything with my evap yet, just got the Rock Hard one from Ken, he removed it to relocate evap over the axle. I believe he thinks that’s the way to go. You won’t need the additional lift with either sets of fenders if you are doing it for tire clearance.

I like the Metalcloak solution since it is lighter, increases ground clearance and the color matches the rest of my bolt-on components.
I don't like having to extend hoses and rotate sensors on a stupid finicky emissions component. The Poisonspyder has none of these issues other than it is heavier.

I guess I should just proactively order the MCE fenders? They are only $399 shipped. Are there any other plastic fenders I should consider? It sounds like my tires will rub with the stock fenders for sure?

Thanks,
Chris

I’d go with which ever one you like. I don’t feel weight is an issue, I don’t think mine can be any heavier. Where are you seeing MCE for $399/set? That’s closer to the price of a pair. There are some other good plastic ones but MCE are known for being the most forgiving to abuse. I want to get them for Carols Jeep but the 35’s look small with the 3.5” lift, fenders will make them look smaller. You could also cut your factory ones. They look pretty good if you do it right.

Randy, here:

https://www.mcefenders.com/product/mce- ... 018-gen-ii

Aren't these the right ones? I just called MCE and they said they are slightly narrower than the stock fenders.

Chris