Planned Upgrades to my 2012 JKU Rubicon

[ChrisL]

I had a great time at the run last weekend, but I need some serious upgrades before I come back out.

What I have now:
2012 JKU Rubicon 3.6l
3.73 gears because automatic
2.5" Rough Country spring lift
Warn 9k winch
Pretzeled smittybilt side steps
255/75/R17 BFG Mud Terrains

I work from home and this is not a daily driver although I want to be able to drive it to the trails.

Rockrails:
I am pretty sure I am going to get the White Knuckle Offroad rails at a 20-degree angle so it can be used as a step for my kids but is not totally flat.

Tires/wheels:
I drove the jeep up on a rock in my yard to full articulation and it looks like I can easily fit 35" on the front, but it may be questionable in the rear. To that end I want to get 35x12.50 or similar tire size and new rims with enough offset that the sidewalls come out to the outer edge of the stock fender flares. What tires do you like for the trails around here? I am *hoping* not to have to regear immediately, but it is not off the table. Any suggestions for tires and or rim offsets to achieve this? I know that various brands actual size can vary quite a bit. Looks like I need 1.5" more offset then the stock wheels?

Skidplates:
No idea here. Metalcloak full skidplates? How about the Quadratec aluminum skids? Since my lift is questionable, less weight is more. I know I need to get that oilpan covered.

It also looks like I need to protect the bottom of the pumpkins (or drive better) and the lower control arm mounts as they take a beating when sliding off a rock.

Recovery:
Full socket/wrench set
more snatchblocks, bolts, fixtures for bending back components.

At this point I think rockrails plus bigger tires/rims are my highest priority.

Let's say I want to spend $5-6k on this go around, what would you do?

Thanks in advance

Chris

[MDSRACING398]

Plenty of people here that will help you spend your money. But engine skid plate #1. Steel not aluminum.

[JeepAddict]

Skid plates. Engine, Transmission, LCAS , Gas tank. Protect your diff covers and relocate the evap canister. Just an opinion

[Hoodoo Man]

I have a 2.5" lift on my JKU and barely clear my 35s with rubbing in the rear fenders. I also do not disconnect. Do not waste money on aluminum. It's light and soft metal and I doubt it will protect your undercarriage.

I went with Body Armor sliders and steps on my original 07JKU and they have held up very well and are now mounted on my 12 JKU. I went with Hard Rock4x4 engine and oil pan skids in steel and even those have bent. It may be worth changing out the factory cross member with an aftermarket one now. Don't forget the gas tank skid. I did and now am down a gallon or two in overall capacity. For hundred bucks a pop you can not go wrong with the poison spyder diff covers I am personally a fan of the lube locker gaskets to make inspection a breeze.

Start with armor and wait for tires...

[RandyCarol]

I like the Goodyear Duratracs, great off road and one of the few mud terrains rated for snow if you plan to drive in the winter. Don’t fall for the hype of aluminum skids. I don’t there is anything you can lighten on a Jeep that is going to add any difference. Light weight is for race cars. RockHard has their skids available in 1/4”, as well as 3/16” that most manufactures have. Diff skids will take away some valuable ground clearance. The do add some protection but I see them get hung up more often. I’d also look at the EVO Rockstars for the rear lower shock mount, they protect the control arm and help get the shocks out of the rocks

[Frank]

Hey Chris. On the wheel thing , to move the wheel outward you need LESS back spacing not more . As for your 3.73s , what are you starting with for tires 32s ? Look up Tire Vs. axle ratio charts . It will show you how much a 35 will kill your power and MPG. Its a catch 22 for sure. I think we have a member that cooked an auto doing that but Im not sure I remember his ratio. Glad ya had a good ride and it only gets better once you accept the fact that your hooked already and dont know it. FjR68

[ChrisL]

Thanks for all the advice to this point.

Seems that everyone more or less agrees on the white knuckle sliders. How unhappy would I be with the flat sliders instead of angled up? I don't need a step, but my kids sure will for a couple of years. I am asking WNOR if they can angle them up a bit.

This is a weekend driver, not my daily driver. Honestly, I took it off the road for this past winter. That being said a snow run looks like a ton of fun. So I am not sure where that leaves me with wheel/tire choices.
Is it as simple as buying a rim with 4.5" of backspacing? I think the stock rims are 6" backspacing? How about rim diameter, it feels like more rubber is advantageous pointing to 16" rim? I like those DuraTrac's how about the Dick Cepek Rough Country?
Randy, what combination is your wife running? Her jeep is more or less what I am aiming for.
Hoodoo, what brand 35? I think the actual diameter/width varies greatly amongst brands.

Regarding gearing, I have the 4 to 1 transfer case so I think I can absorb the higher axle ratio. I drive like my kids are in the jeep, so I don't mash the skinny pedal. I am not opposed to re-gearing, but I would like to delay it if possible. I found the following chart that says I should be "ok" whatever that means.

http://www.wanderingtrail.com/Mechanical/gearratio.html

So we have two recommendations for the RockHard sliders. Are the 3/16" plates sufficient for the trails around here? It looks like they have a broader system than Metal Cloak.

Thanks
Chris

[KenCal]

Hey Chris, check out Rugged Ridge XHD Rock Sliders. They are similar to the PS rock sliders. They protect your rocker under and over for a very reasonable price. As far as 16" vs 17" rims it's about clearance for steering and brake components. You need to make sure there is no interference. With back spacing you need 4.75" or less so you can turn and flex without your wheels rubbing where they shouldn't.

[RandyCarol]

She has the Fuel Anza with 4.5” backspace with 35” duratracs, that seems to be the recommended backspace. She ran with 3.21 gears for a year and was fine. We finally regeared to 4.56, I noticed the difference but she might not have if I didn’t tell her about it. I think you will be fine with the 3.73s, some people just notice those things more. Biggest downside of having un-angled sliders is that you (your wife/kids even worse) will drag their legs over it every time they get out and get mud all over themselves. 3/16” skids will suffice for most but I would consider the 1/4” for the engine skid, that one takes the worst hits. I got about 2 years out of my (not Carols) engine skid. I am still running the factory transmission and fuel tank skids but my gas tank skid is destroyed and I’m losing fuel capacity. Don’t be like me.
I’d stick to 17” wheels, that’s pretty standard now. You may want to go with bigger brakes one day. Carol didn’t care for stock braking so I had to upgrade and it requires 17” wheels

[MDSRACING398]

Poison Spyder still made in USA
Metal Cloak made in USA
White Knuckle Offroad made in USA
JCR made in USA
A TO Z FAB. made in USA
Rock Hard made in USA
PLUS many more
Saving a buck isn't always the best thing.

[Hoodoo Man]

I do have a brand new gas tank skid from Rock Hard, it's out of the box as the box got wet, but I never got around to installing it.
https://www.rockhard4x4.com/product_p/rh-6001.htm it's $420 new (snicker, snort) I can sell it to you for $300 with all hardware and newly printed instructions.

Selling my JKU so it will not get mounted by me ever. PM me and we can make arrangements if you like. It is heavy duty and will do you well IF you mount it before you mess up the factory "skid" as I did...

[ChrisL]

Hoodoo, nice offer. I need to figure out if I can mix and match the 3/16 and 1/4" plates. I will let you know soon.

Are you guys familiar with the Dirty Life wheels with rash rings? All 4 of my wheels went from pristine to destroyed in my first run. It seems like if you can protect the bead area with a replaceable ring it would be advantageous.

https://www.wheelmax.com/wheel/11094/di ... 3322&lug=6

It looks like they come in 17x9 x -12mm offset (which I think is 4.5")

EDIT: I think this rim is only 4" off offset (9" / 2) - 12mm = 4". Does that mean I will have quite a bit of tread outside of the fender flares?

Chris

[Hoodoo Man]

the way to go in my opinion is steel wheels. they hold up to abuse and can be massaged back into place easily and if you get the black one touch up is very easy. My first set for the JKU were alloys and they did OK but I bought steel for the second set as that is what I had run on my TJ for years and I never looked back. Rash rings will help protect it but I have had issues with wearing bolts out in high contact areas and then difficulty removing them.

[RandyCarol]

I dont mind the rock rash on the wheels to be honest. To me it indicates a Jeep used off road. When I see a built Jeep at a parking lot somewhere I tend to look at the wheels to see if it’s a wheeler or not.

[KenCal]

Rock rash is just part of wheeling. No point in worrying about it because it is going to happen.