Baystate Jeepers

ChrisL wrote: ↑Thu Mar 26, 2020 8:47 pm Hank, sorry I did buy the gunmetal gray Vision Nemesis wheels. What color do you have? How does that plastic fake beadlock hold up on the trail?

That Teraflex tire carrier looks interesting. I need a bumper as well, so I need to look at combo units as well. I had a currie bumper/tire carrier on my YJ.

Mine are in plain ol' machined finish. Driving the gray Jeep, didn't want to be too matchy-matchy. The rash ring does a decent job, though since upgrading to 35s I've taken vastly fewer rim hits, the deeper center of the rim keeps that a little safer too... no idea how, but i wound up with some serious gouges on the center caps of my Rubi wheels.

I went with the Teraflex mostly because my Jeep pulls DD/grocery/pin hauling duty, and having a 2 step process to open the gate just seemed like a major PITA with how often I'm in there. I've also got my Hi-Lift back there, which was a nice add. Still a super easy 1 step process to open/swing the gate.

I don't think the metalcloak arms will adjust down enough for your 2.5 springs. In all honesty no reason to do arms unless you go bigger.

MDSRACING398 wrote: ↑Fri Mar 27, 2020 8:57 pm I don't think the metalcloak arms will adjust down enough for your 2.5 springs. In all honesty no reason to do arms unless you go bigger.

Today I don't plan on going over 35s due to the axle constraints, however, I would like to avoid cutting the fender, is it unavoidable? I am going to wait for my tires to see if I am worrying about a non-issue. It just looked really close.

I spoke with Metalcloak this week, they recommended their 3.5" lift for 35" on a JKU. Am I thinking right that the longer lower control arm will get the tire further back in the wheel well avoiding cutting? Or does the larger diameter tire always require cutting?

I have a bad feeling that I am buying a new front driveshaft due to the skid plates. I would like to avoid the exhaust spacers. This is ok since the jeep has 120k miles and I can see the reppa joint has thrown grease on the underside of the body. If I am doing the front driveshaft, I might as well throw on a lift at the same time.

Does anyone have an opinion of the new Rancho 4in crawler lift with the S2 bushings? It is almost a $1000 less than the MetalCloak. It seems like MC invented and patented a new joint construction, but others have caught up?

The second upgrade is on its way...I better charge my impact wrench batteries.
Chris

Need to go up. Going back could help a little but then your hitting in the back. New Control arms are longer because as you go up obviously the arms get shorter. But also as you go up your pinion angle and caster gets screwed up. Longer control arms help get everything back in place. You get what you pay for. Once again MetalCloak made in USA. Have a problem call them sometimes you get to talk to the owner. But be honest with yourself if your staying on greens and blues and daily driving you don't need all the bells and whistles and a slightly less life will do just fine for you.

You might not have to cut it, or just cut off that point. It could slash up a tire good. I think in 2014 they changed it so it doesn’t have that point any more. Here is a pic of mine after I cut it back. I did the same up front in case I went bigger.

MDSRACING398 wrote: ↑Sat Mar 28, 2020 2:10 pm But be honest with yourself if your staying on greens and blues and daily driving you don't need all the bells and whistles and a slightly less life will do just fine for you.

Spot on, I need more time on greens and blues before I try more challenging trails. I am going to see how the tires fit and then figure it out from there. All that being said, I am wondering if I should buy a new driveshaft before I install the skidplates? Seems like this is a good time to get that upgrade out of the way?

I don't have exhaust spacers currently, I guess the Rough Country shocks don't have enough droop to allow the driveshaft to hit the exhaust pipe? If that is the case, if I don't change the lift, I don't need to change the driveshaft.

Chris

Chris, I think you'll be happy with your list. One thing you can do if the fenders are starting to rub is cut the lip on the bottom in the middle 6 inches or so. When runs start again, look at mine (red Aruba license plate...we talked at Brookridge). Another thing you can do is put in extended bump stops. This limits how high the tire goes up.

For the spare, with a 35, unless you want to cut into your stock bumper (which wouldn't be out of the question), I don't think it's going to fit on the stock mount. I put my spare in the back cargo area and removed the stock mount. Partly to get more space in case I slide backwards into something and part for visiblilty. But I don't have kids in the back seats, so they're folded down, getting the seat tops and head rests completely out of the way.

You're going to find as you add weight, the height is going to start to go down. There's a nice graphic on Wrangler Forum on how to measure. I remember the front off the top of my head, from the mounting point of the shock top in front to the center of the bolt stock is 18 1/2 inches. So a 2.5" lift theoretically is 21". (mine is not....grumble, grumble). I doubt most people don't even measure and just assume that their 2.5" lift gave them 2.5".

I've been running a 2.5" lift with 35s for a few years. I still have the stock driveshaft with the Rockhard skid plates and have not had an issue yet. I do get bump steer with stock control arms on the highway. I have the Teraflex lift with the track bar relocation bracket and if memory serves I moved the rear sway bar links to the front. I occasionally rub the fenders at full stuff but I also do not disconnect the front sway bar so it limits droop and up-travel a little bit which I am ok with. It's easy enough to find stock fenders and someone on the forum was giving away a set of cut fenders so you may want to hold off of cutting until you go out and see what happens with the tires. Typically the plastic clips break before you damage sheet metal.

I never did anything with the pinch seam in the rear fender well and have not had issues with rubbing but that is my experience only.

Hoodoo Man wrote: ↑Wed Apr 01, 2020 3:07 pm someone on the forum was giving away a set of cut fenders

Jack, thanks I remember watching you back up that fairly steep hill. I was wondering where your spare was. My front right bump stop is missing so I bought the Metalcloak bump stops, but I may need to buy the extended bump stops instead. Luckily I have a rock in my yard that will get my jeep to full articulation so I can check for areas of interference. Sounds like I need to check the pinch seam as well as the top inside of the front wheel well.

I need to get this round of upgrades installed and take stock of where I am. I think the driveshaft, lift kit, and/or rear tire carrier bumper are the next upgrades.

The skidplates came today, but I have a few more weeks for the wheels/tires and rock rails.

Chris

Gosh those tube steps where thin, I guess they are purely decorative.

We also got the new cross member installed which is super beefy.

It looks like I will replace the transfer case fluid since I have great access at this point.

Still feeling like I may buy a replacement driveline, not sure yet.

Just saw the evaporator canister, I certainly need to protect that!

If you move thr evap canister you dont have to protect it. I think the relocation kit is less than the skid AND...you save a few pounds on metal.

JeepAddict wrote: ↑Sun Apr 05, 2020 7:40 pm If you move thr evap canister you dont have to protect it. I think the relocation kit is less than the skid AND...you save a few pounds on metal.

Is the Metal Cloak relocation bracket the preferred way to protect the EVAP canister? Any others I should consider?

Chris

I used Dominion off road. Took about 45 min..

Here is a pic on my old and new cross members. They can get beat up pretty bad, yours looks like it’s still in great shape.