Driveshafts?

[Hank]

The MetalCloak man is on his way, and he's bringing suspension goodness with him.
I'm a buy once, cry once kind of guy... so might as well do it all at the start.
What's the general consensus on driveshafts?
Tom Woods or Adams (or someone else)?
1310 or 1350?
Solid or greasable?
Black or fancy chrome and some LED underlighting?


Pros, cons, and jokes at my expense will all be appreciated

Thanks

[RandyCarol]

Both are good choices, I’d go with whoever gave a better deal. Not sure where you get your parts but Northridge often has them on sale, usually around a holiday. I never hear of any failures on either the 1310 or 1350. I’ve read that the stock rzeppa joint is actually stronger than the 1310, but neither one is really a weak spot. I’m also buy once-cry once and went with the 1350. My wife has a 1310 front, so I cried twice actually.
If the Metal Cloak was greasable that would be 100% the way to go since you would be under there greasing anyways. I’d still recommend greaseable but make sure you actually grease them.

[KenCal]

I have Tom Woods front and rear driveshafts. Bought them 2 yrs ago direct from TW's. Arrived in 3 days with yokes, flanges and complete instructions. Like Randy said though both are good choices. Remember to keep them greased and you will be fine. As Frank always says "grease is cheap".

[JeepAddict]

I just did the Tom Woods on mine as well 1310. Greaseable and 1310s are relatively easy to swap out if needed.

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

I've used both adams and tom woods, I can't actually tell you which is where on my jeep. Both are built high quality and i've had zero issues with sizing or durability. All damage has been due to operator error on my part.

Regarding joint size, the 1350 is stronger, but it has less allowable working angle. The u-joints are typically the weak point in the driveline, a fuse if you will. Its usually much more preferred to replace a u-joint then it is a ring gear, axle shaft, transfer case, etc. Image for reference.

[Hoodoo Man]

Tom woods no doubt. Big sponsor of local events and gives back to the community. I ran them on my TJ for years with zero issues. I like non-greasable as they are stronger and less maintenance. My JKU is still on the original factory u joints in the DS after 120K miles.

[Frank]

My TWs are nearing 10 years old. No issues at all . The old wifes tale non-greasable are stronger , or are made to tighter tolerance is just non sense . Way back Randy said make sure you grease them. Way back Ken said I said grease is cheap ! I have to say , sad as it is . I had my first trail fail last year at the end of the season. A front axle U-Joint. Go figgure , non-greaseable . There has been improvements to u-joint fitting placement . They are now in an end cap instead of the trunion . Suppose to be stronger. Every steering ,suspension , drive shaft , clutch linkage, on my CJ-5 has a grease fitting. She gets grease every time i abuse her. ONE failure in 14 yrs. is acceptable . "Grease Is Cheap " FjR68