Baystate Jeepers

So I finally got a chance to work on the gear install yesterday. I did the calculation for new shim stacks from the old last weekend.

I know some of you have done your own gear setup.
Please let me know what you think about the pattern.
Should I just button it up?

New Locker: ARB
New Ring and Pinion: 4.88

1st try:
Pinion pre-load: 18 in-lb (spec: 14-19)
Backlash: .006 (spec: .006 - .010)



2nd try: increase the backlash a bit
Pinion pre-load: 18 in-lb
Backlash: .007

What was wrong with your first run?? Not an expert in ANY WAY... but from the hundreds of gear photos I have now seen, that looks good!

Questions... did you remove your axle for this project and how many hours did it take you to get to this point?

Chris wrote:What was wrong with your first run?? Not an expert in ANY WAY... but from the hundreds of gear photos I have now seen, that looks good!

I like the first pattern as well but the backlash is right on the lowest end of the spec. I prefer something near the low end. The first pattern looks good because the gears were brand new. I didn't clean the gears that well for the second try and that's why the pattern doesn't look as vivid. But they were clean enough to pull a good pattern.

Chris wrote:Questions... did you remove your axle for this project and how many hours did it take you to get to this point?

This is the D44 that was tucked under the work bench in my garage for over a year. This one http://forum.baystatejeepers.com/viewto ... ?f=3&t=694

I highly recommend that the axle is removed from the Jeep if you're installing an ARB or any locker with shim stacks on the outside of the bearings. Otherwise it would be very difficult to install a 50-lb locker/ring gear side way while keeping the shim stack from falling out between the side bearing and master shim.

How many hours just to pull the first pattern? Within 1 hour!!! BUT, I didn't do all the work yesterday. I started working on it since last week but I only spent about an hour each day and I was taking my time to calculate all the new shim stacks. Look for Dana Spicer gears because they have checking distance engraved on the pinion head. I calculated shim stacks for the ARB this way...

And you will remember to add the correct amount of shim into the packs for bearing preload right!?!

Its more important to get the drive side of the ring gear perfect vs. the coast side. If Im seeing this right, The pinion is to deep . High or low pinion ? FjR68

johnsxj wrote:And you will remember to add the correct amount of shim into the packs for bearing preload right!?!

BTW, what is the "correct" amount? I was thinking of .005 on each side and set it up as tight as possible with 6 or 7 dead blows to seat it. Does it sound right?

Frank wrote:Its more important to get the drive side of the ring gear perfect vs. the coast side. If Im seeing this right, The pinion is to deep . High or low pinion ? FjR68

It's a low pinion for the rear. I thought the drive side is pretty good. Please let me know why you think it's too deep. Is it because the coast side pattern?

Thanks guys!

I liked the coast side a little better in the first pic, but I think the pattern is most defintely in the acceptable range.

I'd run it.

Keep in mind that mass produced axles (and engines for that matter) are zapped together with air guns and torque sticks.

If the pics show the drive side in the middle like the first pic, Im good with that. Cant tell the depth from any pic. The fourth pic shows a little high, like not enough preload. I hope you put the bearing caps on for this as it really makes a difference ,screwdrivers cant create preload. The good part about doing your own gears is the savings. The worst part is you dont have to wait long to find out. FjR68

ZAEDOCK wrote:I liked the coast side a little better in the first pic

Frank wrote:If the pics show the drive side in the middle like the first pic, Im good with that.

I guess I am going back to the first pattern.

Frank wrote:I hope you put the bearing caps on for this as it really makes a difference ,screwdrivers cant create preload.

Everything was torqued to spec for the measurement. Screwdrivers were only used for starting shim stack calculation.

ZAEDOCK wrote: I'd run it.

10-4

So when can I pick up the axle, please make sure you leave the air pump and switches with it! /

You don't want the axle. It doesn't have TJ brackets and you'll have to grind off the truss and my crappy welds.

Dude : Its an overwhelming thing to do the first couple times.Knowing you only have one shot at it. Once you run them and there is no ugly noises and you wheel them and they dont explode, you start to get the confidence you new you had ! Brake them in on the street at different speeds , light loads,then look at the lube. Some flakes are gonna be there, and it gives you a chance to see the real pattern. The next time you will be nervous is when you do this for a good friend ! Good luck, see ya on the trail. FjR68

Finally got the D44 under the Jeep this weekend. Been driving easy short trips on back roads and highways. Gotta love the 4.88 and 32" tires.

NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!