Baystate Jeepers

so i would really like to go high steer. i've bent the currie a number of times on rocks so i'd like to get it out of the way. looks like i need a go-fer-it flip insert (http://www.goferitoffroad.com/products.htm)
i also need a high-steer track bar to eliminate bump steer. i like the idea of the JKS setup. i need an over-the-axle mount (http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merch ... e=FABParts) and high steer track bar. I would also need to modify the front sway bar mounts. i'd also like to go with a antirock sway bar but i'm afraid the tires will hit the arms.

Go flat top and use Chevy outers. Bigger brakes, manual hubs and one ton steering. Yeah the JKS mount is needed.



http://www.reidracing.biz/DANA30.php

Ryan, the low buck way is to use just one insert on the driver's side to flip just the tie rod and modify the one sway bar link (no need to alter the track bar).

I still have the drill and tap if you want to modify your Currie drag link to flip the whole system like I did.

i'm fine with the low buck way on this one! even just a driver side flip will help a lot.

so i should replace the RE heim joint with a johnny joint. i've heard its best to weld on a new frame end track bar mount with a double shear for better strength and flex.

how about a swayloc with this setup? right now my tires rub the frame at both ends so i don't know if i'd have space for a swayloc. anyone have any pics at full lock of their setup?

Baseshakers wrote:i'm fine with the low buck way on this one! even just a driver side flip will help a lot.

Thought you wanted true high steer.
But John really has a cool mod for his OTK setup.

jon, what did you do for your driver side sway bar mount? (or did u just get rid of the sway bar?) i like the idea of the driver side only flip. relatively simple, but should make a huge difference.

Since I flipped the entire system, I got extended sway bar axle mounts from JKS, cut the old ones off and welded the new ones in.

You can buy a single bracket to use on the driver side, and shorten the sway bar link to match (at the time I think the JKS brackets were $20ea side with a gusset).

sweet, doesn't sound too bad. my old disconnects are shot, now i need to decide if i want a different set or a dual rate sway loc

john, are you talking about this one? http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merch ... e=FABParts
where did yours weld up? i think everything i need is the bracket and inserts. that it?

Baseshakers wrote:john, are you talking about this one? http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merch ... e=FABParts
where did yours weld up? i think everything i need is the bracket and inserts. that it?

Yep that's the one
I used the 2" models, I completely cut off the old one on the driver's side and then welded the new one in it's place. There was more ca-ca in the way on the passenger side, so I lopped the old bracket off at the spring mount and welded the new one on to the old

Remember those brackets are priced EACH SIDE!!!!!!!!!

My plan is to install my Currie and do it right the first time. Hey, we all learn. Eventually

Saw the GoFerIt tie tie rod flip / high steer (tx Ryan). Reading the posts, you can do a drivers-side-only flip and gain tie rod clearance. Or you can do both sides, and gain more. But if you do both sides you run into problems with sway bar linkage. I ran without a sway bar for a year or more, didn't bother me. But that was before my new lift

So my question is, is it better to do both sides, or does that make things a lot more complicated? Is the sway bar linkage the only downside to doing both sides, or is there more to it? This isn't my DD but I do drive it to the trails. Looking for advice and opinions, what you got?

Glad to see this thread revitalized. After driving Rock Creek by brail its time i do this as well. May i suggest a wrenchfest in the near future to burn in some new hardware?

a wrenchfest is something that sounds good to me
would love to meet some people and lend a hand where i can!!
one thing i will say is stay away from heims in the steering, especially if you have a dd rig like i did lol

Voodoo Chile wrote:Glad to see this thread revitalized. After driving Rock Creek by brail its time i do this as well. May i suggest a wrenchfest in the near future to burn in some new hardware?

Jeff, I like the cut of your jib!

NBFarmboy wrote:a wrenchfest is something that sounds good to me
would love to meet some people and lend a hand where i can!!
one thing i will say is stay away from heims in the steering, especially if you have a dd rig like i did lol

I heard about using heims in steering. And what I heard was not good

I ordered up the flip kit and I'm ordering some parts to bring my Currie back to respectable shape. She's straight where she needs to be, but she's been ridden hard and put away wet. Fortunately she's rebuild-able. Just the way things are but I'm probably not doing anything until the first weekend in December. At the earliest. It's not a huge job but if people want to get involved and/or just see what's involved then hell yeah, we can do a wrenchfest!! And it would be an awesome tech article for Tracks. I'm not sure WHAT the editor was doing but this last issue was pretty lame Let me guess... he was "busy" or something. Jeeshhhhh

Carl McFly wrote:My plan is to install my Currie and do it right the first time. Hey, we all learn. Eventually

Saw the GoFerIt tie tie rod flip / high steer (tx Ryan). Reading the posts, you can do a drivers-side-only flip and gain tie rod clearance. Or you can do both sides, and gain more. But if you do both sides you run into problems with sway bar linkage. I ran without a sway bar for a year or more, didn't bother me. But that was before my new lift

So my question is, is it better to do both sides, or does that make things a lot more complicated? Is the sway bar linkage the only downside to doing both sides, or is there more to it? This isn't my DD but I do drive it to the trails. Looking for advice and opinions, what you got?

Carl,
As far as I know, I'm the only person to have raised a Currie over the knuckles on both sides. Just doing the driver's side is easy and sufficient for practically anyone. I did the passenger side because the joint on the long forging was shot and it wouldn't cost me much to try, plus I wanted to see if it could be done

The Currie system is basically a stock system on 'roids. When you look at the draglink (long rod from steering box to PS knuckle) there's a bend right after where the tie rod to the DS knuckle bolts up. The rod end on the draglink is forged into it, so you can't just flip the draglink upside down and have everything bolt on (the bend would be pointing towards the axle housing and be hitting everything). A draglink from a right hand drive works OTK in a left hand drive Jeep. But they cost $$$$ and are only as strong as stock. I had to cut the old tie rod end off my draglink. Then I drilled and tapped the end to accept a 3/4-16 thread tie rod from a 1/2 ton dodge. I ended up having to rework both swaybar mounts to clear the steering, and install an above the axle track bar bracket to keep all the angles working together to avoid bump steer and death wobble.

Trust me..... just flip the drivers side, rework the one sway bar bracket/link and call it good! You'll have plenty of extra clearance at a minimal cost with minimal work.