Baystate Jeepers

I noticed a bunch of rigs on trailers at the open event. Since i have a class C RV, the idea of towing my TJR to weekend campouts sounds appealing. Otherwise, my wife and I will have to drive separately. Any advice on what's an appropriate trailer and what should I look for if going with a used setup? The guys at Barrette said tow bars are a bad idea

Need to figure out what weight rv can tow and hitch is actually rated for and then work backwards. Weight of jeep + weight of trailer. Obviously shorter is better less weight. Then need trailer brake control if don't have. Plus a bunch of other stuff. Not as easy as just buying trailer.
Tow bar (can't back up) or even tow dolly (need to remove driveshaft) are not good choices in my opinion either but each there own.

A lot of gas Rv's are maxed out on engine by themselves without a trailer. Hill's are evil. Then there is the whole have you driven with a trailer you can't see scenario.

Everything Mark said.

I think it’s the beat option to get the towed vehicle completely off the ground, that way if something in the drivetrain breaks, just get it on the trailer and that’s it. I broke a ujoint recently, and had I not had the trailer, the whole joint and axle shaft would’ve needed to be pulled out, and kinda “cobbled” together to get home. Would’ve been the same with a tow bar. Dolly could’ve worked. I got my 10k trailer for $1200 used, put $300 into it for all new brakes and wiring, the brake controller for the truck was another $60, and the right ball and mount were another $50-ish.

My RV is a Sprinter 3.0L 6 cylinder diesel. Max tow rating is 7500 lbs. Looks like my Jeep is ~4500 lbs. and the avg trailer is in the 1500 lb range. I'd be pushing the upper limit but it might be doable. I have a feeling that my RV loaded with gear and the trailer might be a stretch but i"ll do some homework and see if it makes sense.

Dont forget when looking at weights of jeeps that our Mods ad a bunch of weight to them. Also dont forget about trailer tongue weight and check what your hitch and tow vehicles limitations are.

The other side to remember that you prob dont need a TON of stuff if your up for a trailing weekend so that might save you some weight in the camper.

I towed my Jeep , trailered behind a Ford explorer sport trac , 6 cyl auto. Did okay for almost everything . Hills were mentioned . They are out there. Plan ahead hit the gas make a run at it or just take your time be safe and have fun . Ive towed the same Jeep with a slide in camper in my diesel truck . Its like it not back there ! Hills ? Who cares. Im a retired tractor trailer driver so knowing how to use your mirrors and driving defensive is key. With the camper in the truck you only see the Jeep on turns. Have to plan ahead on how and where to park so backing is minimum . My Jeep is registered for the road , but once you have the option to get home no matter what happens , it opens doors you wont believe , then the monster grows into something you saw in a magazine . Is it worth trailering , absolutely. Factory tow ratings sell vehicles , not always true. If you actually have a motor home , the back bumpah is not for towing but for stowing the poop pipe so a special hitch is required. Do it , you wont regret it. FjR68 PS I will be selling my trailer in the fall

I flat towed here and there back in the day. Never had an issue with driving or handling but you can't back up.

I used to pull race car trailers. I had both open and enclosed Cargo Pro (who became Thule then bought back and name changed.....I'd have to go outside to remember what their new name is). Made in Maine. I had my first one special ordered to get the weight way down (pulling with a TJ of all things!....a 900 pound 14' open....not enclosed). There are other aluminums available. They're way lighter, so you can load more stuff. The axles determine the allowed weight. They will be more expensive to buy but they really hold their value well.