Baystate Jeepers

So I had my Birthday and my wife Paid off my JKU!! Along with about $500.

So There are several items I need to deal with on the JKU, Radiator (the second one cracked since I've had it). I'm thinking of doing the radiator and going not with normal fluid, but with the Evans Waterless Coolant. The OEM Radiators keep cracking along the plastic seams (for those that don't know most recent Jeeps use an Aluminum core with plastic on the sides). I'm thinking of going with an all-aluminum aftermarket radiator, new Silicone hoses, and Evans. It will reduce the pressure as the Evans does not produce steam or boil (no more cracking even with the OEM if I go with another).

Has anyone used the Evans Waterless coolant? Anyone with a Newer JK gone with any of the aftermarket Radiators?
(Here is the Radiator, I've heard only bad things lately about Mishimoto, and AFE came out with a one, I trust AFE) https://afepower.com/afe-power-46-50012 ... or#reviews

The other "thing" at issue according to the dealer a rear driveshaft replacement (torn Boot(s) to them means replace ).

Bob

You're in luck Bob... I just replaced my rear driveshaft. If you're looking for a stock replacement, I've got one on hand. (I've got a front too... if for some reason you need that)

That’d be awesome.

Just curious .... why do you keep going to the dealer? All I hear is complaints about them. Aren't they the ones who said a winch will void the warranty?

My "new" dealer is different than the original one I was going to (and where I bought my Jeeps). Dan's Jeep in Westborough was terrible, their support and repair were the worst I've ever heard of/had happened to me. I now go to Colonial Jeep in Hudson. They are much better, but still have to follow the "Rules" as far as some things. I did my 100K checkup with them and the mentioned that the boots on the rear shaft were torn and grease was coming out of the bearings on the shaft. According to the "Chrysler Book," it's a replacement, not just fix. so they told me that a small shop could replace the bearings that were open for a couple hundred or they could do the whole shaft for $600...

Replacing the Bearings on the shafts is a two-person job and requires special tools. I can get the bearing replacement parts for ~$100, but getting them on is the difficult part and would take the Jeep out of commission till I fixed it. If hank has an OEM Rear from a JKU I can drop it in without much effort in comparison.

I still go to the Dealer for anything Engine/Transmission/Drive Train that I cannot handle myself. I also haven't found a good local mechanic that does not want to put the screws to me as bad as a dealer yet...

Bob

Maybe its time to upgrade the DS.

Bob, just did a little poking around... apparently there are different part numbers for manual/auto and rubi/not... So I don't know your build, but mine is out of a 15 JKUR with a 6 speed.

I don't know the differences between any of the part numbers, I just know they're different. But if it'll work, it's yours.

So Bob , question . If your Jeep is steaming or boiling , theres a bigger problem. Answer to your actual questions are
1) Griffin is the aftermarket radiator I use. All alum. CROSS FLOW triple core . Took about 20* outta running temp.
2) I have used a coolant substitute . "Water Wetter" its an additive instead of coolant.
3) Now that its paid for , you gonna wheel this century or what ?

Hank wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2020 2:36 pm Bob, just did a little poking around... apparently there are different part numbers for manual/auto and rubi/not... So I don't know your build, but mine is out of a 15 JKUR with a 6 speed.

I don't know the differences between any of the part numbers, I just know they're different. But if it'll work, it's yours.

Difference I believe is the coolant lines for the automatic trans.

Hank wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2020 2:36 pm Bob, just did a little poking around... apparently there are different part numbers for manual/auto and rubi/not... So I don't know your build, but mine is out of a 15 JKUR with a 6 speed.

I don't know the differences between any of the part numbers, I just know they're different. But if it'll work, it's yours.

Mine is a JKU Sport Automatic, so Let me dig around a bit to see if the part numbers are only different because of what they go into, vs Actual differences...

Frank wrote: ↑Wed Jun 10, 2020 7:18 am So Bob , question . If your Jeep is steaming or boiling , theres a bigger problem. Answer to your actual questions are
1) Griffin is the aftermarket radiator I use. All alum. CROSS FLOW triple core . Took about 20* outta running temp.
2) I have used a coolant substitute . "Water Wetter" its an additive instead of coolant.
3) Now that its paid for , you gonna wheel this century or what ?

Main Question, It actually never winds up on the ground. It burns off, The Jeep never shows signs of overheating as far as a temp, but you can see the signs of the leak(s) and smell the antifreeze. It also crystallizes and dries along the joints between the plastic and aluminum core.

1. I'll take a look at the griffin, the biggest thing is mine is an Automatic, so it will have the Auto coolant lines also.
2. I've used one of those before, they work good, but from what I've been reading about the Evans waterless, it looks like it may be a better system. Because it's boil point is so much higher than antifreeze/water mixes, there is no steam little/no pressure build up. Even if I go with the OEM replacement radiator, still thinking of conversion to Waterless so I don't blow another one in a year and a half.
3. LOL, Yep, once my wife clears me to be able to, I'm in. I also tried to get the ATV permit, but the site looks to be only open for renewals, not new...

KenCal wrote: ↑Wed Jun 10, 2020 10:03 am

Hank wrote: ↑Tue Jun 09, 2020 2:36 pm Bob, just did a little poking around... apparently there are different part numbers for manual/auto and rubi/not... So I don't know your build, but mine is out of a 15 JKUR with a 6 speed.

I don't know the differences between any of the part numbers, I just know they're different. But if it'll work, it's yours.

Difference I believe is the coolant lines for the automatic trans.

Wow... that's gotta be a LOT different, running the coolant for the auto trans through the driveshaft
Seems overly complicated.

Oh, I thought we were talking about radiators.

No worries, I figured you were, I was just bustin' chops. Think of all the extra coolant capacity though.

BlackKnight wrote: ↑Wed Jun 10, 2020 11:09 am 3. LOL, Yep, once my wife clears me to be able to, I'm in. I also tried to get the ATV permit, but the site looks to be only open for renewals, not new...

Cant start a new app online, you have to mail it in. Print the forms and mail along with a check. Directions are on the site.