Baystate Jeepers

Hi guys,
Currently have my 14-bolt all torn down to bare tubes and i'm going to start welding up the motobilt truss swap kit on it. This'll be my first big welding job besides a few beads and just looking for any tips from any pros on here

Sounds like a fun project Chuck. Cant wait to see it once your done.
No tips from me... never welded but do want to learn some day.

WoW , you got-em Chuck ! If its true what you said about only having practice a couple beads. A truss is a stressed member , penetration is critical. For SAFTEY sake ! If your truss will have 4 link arms you better know what your doin.
1) What kinda welder , stick or mig ?
2) Gas or fluxcore ?
3) Power supply 120 or 240 ?
FjR68

If your not sure or haven't welded on axle tubes you would be better served if you had it done for you. Not saying you don't know what your doing but like Frank said your need good penetration and that takes high amps which means lot's of heat. Welding on your axle tube requires letting the axle cool some between applying small welds on one end and then the other. all this so you don't warp your axle. I welded at Electric Boat for a few years but never forgot the important things. When I did a truss and gussets on mine I took it to CT Axle and had Pete do the job. If your experienced have at, just wanted to point out what could happen if done incorrectly.

Im guessin that was a joke . That you really dont need advice . If you doing the 4 link on this dont forget to incorporate for the lift and pinion angle. Good luck FjR68

Hard to link a Jk properly without a ton of work, but if he is I can’t wait to check it out

What makes it different Randy . Dont it already come with U/L control arms ? Hows it different than a TJ ? I need to know . FjR68

Frank wrote: ↑Sun Mar 08, 2020 8:11 am What makes it different Randy . Dont it already come with U/L control arms ? Hows it different than a TJ ? I need to know . FjR68

Have to relocate fuel tank to behind the axle, or a fuel cell. To get the most out of a 4 link it should be flat bellied, either way all the mounts and cross members need to be redone and rear coil overs in boarded through the wheel wells. It’s doable but not a weekend project

Just for reference here's the kit i bought.
https://www.motobilt.com/product/jk_rea ... gm_14_bolt
Luckily i do know someone who has industrial welding experience who can hopefully come by can watch over me (with enough beer provided)
I figured tackling this would be a good learning curve. Luckily i rewire our garage for 220v and am going to be using gas for welding. I appetite all the input!

Clean, pre heat!, wrap to slow cool. Stitch it. Make sure set truss so works with correct pinion angle.

Are you going to cut the bottom of the Diff off like I see some of the kits out there for the 14 bolt (Shave Kit)?

220 - 221 , what ever it takes ! FjR68

BlackKnight wrote: ↑Thu Mar 12, 2020 7:56 pm Are you going to cut the bottom of the Diff off like I see some of the kits out there for the 14 bolt (Shave Kit)?

Not at the moment, not in the "budget". I definitely will be in the future if needed