Baystate Jeepers

Wanted to document my adventure, replacing my d30 crush sleeve. Please let me know if you see any red flags during my progress.

Establish current baseline:

First step, create drive side pattern (resistance set to ~ 50ft lbs, according to instructions that were posted http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Gear_Setup/ )

In order to produce a clear, readable contact pattern you must apply a load on the gears when you rotate them. You need to apply a load so that it takes 40-50 ft-lbs of torque to rotate pinion.

From what I can tell, this would be considered to be an ideal pattern, please let me know if it is not.



Next to measure backlash

The load of 40-50 lbs on the pinion isn't required to pattern gears... I've been through the procedure in the XJ manual when I worked on my gears and it doesn't say anything about that anywhere.

JW

the drive pattern should be centered onthe tooth there should be some clearance between the pattern and the top of the tooth
Here is the Splicer set up it shows you the correct gear pattern Itsa little dirty but you can read

Remember set it up 100% tighten everything down then check gear pattern its the last thing you do before you put axles back in and add oil
If its not right take it back a part again After you set the back lash check it again If its done wrong it will cost you $200 for a new R+P

It's a workable pattern.

Backlash was .008 which I believe is in spec.

Very bad bad news... Bearing on ring side is SHOT, completely pitted (photos to come).

Ok does this mean I might have to reshim? Which brand of bearings would you suggest?

John can you help me out with removing/installing the new bearings? If so what does your schedule look like?

Last, preload..... So in order to get the pinion to start spinning it took ~60 in lbs, after that it went down to ~5 in lbs. This just doesn't seem right, is it?

Warning the following images are not for the weak stomach... you have been warned









Just some images of the spider gears, not really anything I am pointing out just want to show the shape of them.

Anyone ever use this kit to pull the bearings?

http://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-se ... 93980.html

Yep, the bearing is toast! Did you check the pinion bearings yet?
Timken is the way to go on bearings!
This week I'm available nights to help you out.

Pinion bearing is good, no wear.

Thought I was going to die trying to remove the pinion nut.

I wouldn't buy anything from Harbor Freight.

You should be able to get the bearings (individually) from a good auto parts store. Napa or Advanced Auto should have them, or you can buy a master setup kit which would have everything. If you look through the bearings / races you should be able to find a part number the parts store can look up and cross-reference. A call to your local dealer and they should be able to give you a part number too.

Timkin is a good brand to ask for... Most parts stores have it. They are made in the USA -- they have a facility in Keene NH.

JW

Jon thanks for the heads up... I was able to pick up bearing/race at my local Autozone. I also purchased a press and a bearing puller (couldn't pass on the sale). However I can't figure how to position the setup to press off the bearing. I believe this is the correct way to remove the bearings, but could use some feedback.

http://www.angelfire.com/oh5/cpa5oh/cpa5ohtech013.htm

Also found this thread with lots of good info.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/88533 ... rings.html

i killed two HF bearing pullers trying to get the races out of my trailer bearings. some HF stuff is fine, but their bearing pullers just aren't up to the task.

john, i believe i still have your dana 30 setup bearings if you need them...

Chris --
You need a bearing separator and a press. The bearing separator in the Harbor Freight link you sent out might work, but it is going to be low quality and you may bend/break it. You can get that set and try it -- you've only got to do a couple bearings, so even if it doesn't last well, it may be "good enough" for the $. You may be able to take it back if it fails.

I have a good one you're welcome to borrow... Not sure the best way for you to get it though.

JW

Well I got the bearings off! I ended up removing the cage, then grinding down a section of the bearing. Connected up my cheap HF bearing pullers, couple pulls of the impact gun and they popped right off. Next up, time to put that 12ton press to work!! If everything goes smooth, I should have everything back together tonight.

I forgot about that... You can just cut off the roller cage, notch the inner race, and whack it with a hammer + chisel to crack the inner race and relieve the tension.... I think I did it that way too, before I got the bearing separator.

JW