Baystate Jeepers

Ok, so its time to start ordering parts to replace the front U joints on my 97.

I am planning to order some Spicer U Joints, but wanted to ensure that I #1 order the proper parts, and #2 dont overlook something else.

So on a 97 Sport I have found people saying a few diff sizes but it appears that most say if its not a Rubi (and it isnt) then you need a 1310, but someone please let me know if I have been informed incorrectly.

What else does anyone recommend at the same time?

It should be a 1310 for the driveshaft ujoints. I don't recall what the axle joints are if you are intending on changing those out as well. I have yet to break a ujoint on trail, but I'd probably stick with spicer because of name brand.

If your talking about those loose axle shaft joints good time to change anything loose or worn in front end. Brakes and hubs need come off to pull axles. So good time to replace if needed. Hub are sometimes a ***** if rusted in even with puller. Not much else to pull if need ball joints. As for u joints 1310 is the ticket. There are several joints within that series. Some are stronger, greaseable, non greaseable, etc.

Just to clarify for you -

Axle shaft U-joints are a 760X
Drive shaft U-joints are a 1310.

-mike

I would look into which brand has a grease fitting. A lot have none and its a waist of time. Look at also Tom Woods makes his own joints with the grease fitting in the cap. The argument that a U-Joint is stronger without a grease fitting in the trunion (X) of the joint is hear say ! I say --- grease is cheap ! Keep them wet and they last ! The other big secret is dont be hard on the throttle when you have the wheels turned a lot , 30s arent going to like it ! FjR68

Thanks for all the quick answers!

They are the axel U-Joints so thank you for pointing out where I missed there.

Mark, Thank you, Yes those are the ones. I was thinking about that ball joint at the same time prob just do them all as im in the area. Brakes are so far good (recently replaced by previous owner) but I will be planning upgrades in the future for those, as well as probably axles or at least some better internal parts. You really showed me that you CAN do these things without having an insane build and keep it still drivable.

Mike, thank you for the part numbers! That simplifies my life greatly.

Frank, Def looking at grease able ones, theres a bearing in there and "lifetime" bearing as are a joke, sure they last the life of the bearing but isnt that life now limited by the life of the grease? Thanks for the tip on the axel too, having been out a couple times now its looking like my wallet drain will happen quickly lol.

My trick for getting stuck unit bearings (hubs) un-stuck...

1. soak the whole thing with PB Blaster or other penetrant (I use a 50 / 50 mix of Acetone and ATF)
2. break the 3 bolts loose and turn them out about 1/4 inch
3. get a crappy socket that fits over the 12 point bolt and whack it a couple of times with a hammer. Use sharp blows, moving from bolt to bolt after every 2 or 3 whacks. Don't just whale away on one, you might break the ear off of the bearing.

For the front AXLE u joints you can either use a Spicer 297 or 760. One is greasable and one isnt.

The 1310 is only used in your front and rear DRIVESHAFT.

Avoid using a press unless it's used such that the force applied cannot cause the "ears" of either half of the axleshaft to be bent apart or together. Common mistake to inadvertently bend the ears of one of them. Their junk after they get bent.

Don't method of removing the unit bearing is spot on.

After looking into what is going to be done, It might be worth doing, U-Joints, Ball joints (I have at least one questionable one), and wheel bearings.

Does this sound about right to yall?

Might as well, you have to pull the wheel bearings to do the ujoints. Not touch more work to pop out and press in new ball joints.
I'd recommend using Timken wheel bearings.
Usually Amazon or Rock Auto have the best prices on the bearings.

Well looks like a long day or two of work ahead of me.

Is there anything else that should be added to the list for the front?

Tie rods if needed popping them too

Thanks! Forgot about doing that, and prob just worth doing while Im there, they are cheap enough and will give me a pretty much full front end rebuild.