Baystate Jeepers

Rear brake pads are getting thin and have a few questions:

1. Are there any brands to stay away from or that you can recommend?
2. Do the rotors automatically need to be turned or replaced?
3. While apart, is it a good idea to also replace the parking brake pads? I'm finding I have to adjust them at least once a year.
4. Is this "wrenchfest" doable?

Thanks!

Black Magic Brake products and MrBlaine have never let me down...

http://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Je ... -12740.htm

RalphTomaccio wrote:2. Do the rotors automatically need to be turned or replaced?

Depends on the wear, grooving, warping present. You may want to cost price out turning vs replacement rotors. Sometimes the cost difference isn't worth turning them.
Last time I had rotors turned it took a couple of days.

RalphTomaccio wrote:3. While apart, is it a good idea to also replace the parking brake pads? I'm finding I have to adjust them at least once a year.

Not usually necessary but.... yours may be rusty due to your propensity to take your Jeep swimming.
They usually don't cost much so it may be best to plan on replacing them.

RalphTomaccio wrote:4. Is this "wrenchfest" doable?

Usually a pretty easy task so yes it's fest-able. Might want to combine your brake job with another fest since yours won't take too long.


Don't forget to get a new "Hardware Kit" for each side, a couple of cans of Brake Cleaner and a packet or two of Brake Grease.

I only buy new , not relined when it comes to brake pads. I dont have them , but Ive read so many good comments on EBS brake pads. They are color coded and you pick what purpose you need. I E less brake dust , OE replacement , racing , and all of them have better braking performance than stock. Raybestos has been around for a bazillion years also. The cost of new rotors is nothing and like Kurt said , its finding someone to turn them . If you dont feel your foot pulsing when you are stopping , you probably wont need to change them. Adjusting the parking brake once a year is common . If you have a pull lever Vs. a foot pedal , usually its 3/6 clicks for proper adjustment. Swimming , now thats funny right there ! Nuff said FjR68

I'm also digging for some recommendations, but on the front axle for me. My pads are constantly squeaking under heavy and light braking, but there is still a ton of pad and they were replaced only 12k-13k ago. I'm looking to upgrade pads to the EBC yellow pads or the Black Magic Brake pads. From googling, it seems that people that have had both the Black Magic pads and EBC pads, prefer the Black magic.

Frank wrote:If you dont feel your foot pulsing when you are stopping , you probably wont need to change them.

This true? I don't have any warping, but I've always heard that slapping new pads on old rotors isn't a good thing. Because mine are only 12k old, I'd love to save that extra money and just replace the pads.

I used the EBC yellow on my tow rig and have been impressed, they come with a abrasive coating to facilitate a good break-in and set-up process.
I noticed a big difference over the standard pads especially when towing.

Speakin of Tow Rigs . FjR68

Frank wrote:I only buy new , not relined when it comes to brake pads. <<<<snipping content not related to my response>>>> Nuff said FjR68

you're showing your age, Frank. Aside from me, you, and Ralph maybe, nobody remembers relined brake parts...

DDewar53 wrote:you're showing your age, Frank. Aside from me, you, and Ralph maybe, nobody remembers relined brake parts...

Yep, you can include me in that bunch that remembers! That's the era when they made things that were meant to be repaired and not replaced. Today, it's the throw it away and buy it new era.

Kurt wrote:

RalphTomaccio wrote:2. Do the rotors automatically need to be turned or replaced?

Depends on the wear, grooving, warping present. You may want to cost price out turning vs replacement rotors. Sometimes the cost difference isn't worth turning them.
Last time I had rotors turned it took a couple of days.

RalphTomaccio wrote:4. Is this "wrenchfest" doable?

Usually a pretty easy task so yes it's fest-able. Might want to combine your brake job with another fest since yours won't take too long.

Back to the brake issue . . .
It seems to me that if this is done in a wrenchfest, and it takes a couple days to have rotors turned, it pretty much dictates new rotors being purchased to eliminate the two day turning time. (Unless overnight guests are permitted and I don't think THAT'S going to happen)

On a somewhat related note, since Kurt says this is a pretty quick job, I never did replace my front bump stop that was pretty chewed up somehow. Is there a way to replace that without taking the springs out? Maybe lift the front to let the wheels droop to stretch the springs and wiggle the bump stop into the spring? Just guessing!

I wasnt thinkin when I said "Relined" . I meant top of the line Vs. Re-maned . A lot of parts stores have a core charge on shoe components . The rivet and bonded option is still around. Now they have OEM , Silver , Gold , Metallic , Reduced Dust , and so on . I merely suggested buying the best type recommended for a Jeep of your nature . As for rotors , If its not all gouged up , you have several options. I use a 40 grit sanding disk to remove any dirt , or glazing before installing the new pads. Dont be afraid of taking off material , you wont even think your doing anything , its that hard . As Dave said , EBC has a coating on their shoes and instruction on how they want you to seat the pads. The coating on the pads will actually clean the area under the pad before it start to seat. If the rotor is warped or gouged , it wont fix that , but you certainly can and should reuse a good used rotor with no drop in brake power or life. Also , you usually use two sets of pads up front to one set in the back because of the brake psi distributed to the wheels . I hope Im back in good graces with the older crowd , and the pups wont even care ! FjR68

RalphTomaccio wrote: On a somewhat related note, since Kurt says this is a pretty quick job, I never did replace my front bump stop that was pretty chewed up somehow. Is there a way to replace that without taking the springs out? Maybe lift the front to let the wheels droop to stretch the springs and wiggle the bump stop into the spring? Just guessing!

I'd like to maybe piggy-back my bump-stop install to this 'fest. If there's room / time. I'm pretty sure my springs need to be sprung, not a lot of ambiguity on this install

First off , stop using big werds ! (Ambiguity) sounds like a lawyer term . Second , youd have to flex to be worried about bump stops . No more class 6 rds. for you bud . FjR68

I had a brake inspection and they said my front brakes are good but the backs are about 2mm thin and that the rotors look to be in fine shape as well. Recommended just changing the pads. So, I'm going to research the pad brands a little more and then order them. Leaning towards the EBC 6000 Series Greenstuff Truck and SUV Rear Brake Pad. Never realized all the decisions one must go through just for brake pads: "Organic", 2000, 6000, 7000 series, semi-metallic, ceramic, etc. Geesh!

https://www.amazon.com/EBC-Brakes-DP617 ... ff+DP61799

Frank, "Geesh" is not a legal term either. Nothing like ambiquity!

Yellows on front green fine on back.(green 7000) are alot less brake dusty. Yellow hold up to heat alot better, better stopping. Reds are great but destroy rotors fast. Just because lot of meat left on front doesn't mean there stopping you the best. Especially if you go to bigger tire. Takes alot more to slow you down. Don't overlook changing brake fluid it cooks with the bigger tires. Just my opinion tho. Ebc has been a great sponsor over the years for amateur motocross and has never failed us on track.
With that said you asked about ebc. Any premium pad from autoparts will do fine in rear and probably save you some bucks.