Baystate Jeepers

Anyone have experience rebuilding a front TJ driveshaft? Mine is toast. That's the bad news. The good news is, I probably caught it right before it completely seized and caused a lot more damage. It's frozen, can't move it by hand. It's bad. And the best news? The DS is out and I can drive my rig home

Watched a few vids on rebuilding the DS and at best, it's a wicked PITA with some gotchas. My question is, have you done a rebuild and would you do it again? Or would you go with a new one, like they have at Crown?

Carl McFly wrote:....Anyone have experience rebuilding a front TJ driveshaft?

Done a butt load of them. Same as a CV rear shaft.

As long as it's still straight, the slip joint isn't sloppy and the centering pin is OK then I'd rebuild it.
Pretty easy to do. Just need 2 or 3 fresh u-joints and a centering assembly doo-hickey.
Having an arbor press is very handy for carefully popping the joints in and out.
Would be happy to do it for you if you'd like.

You, sir, are my hero. I'd like to take you up on that offer, maybe we can tag team it? I've had mixed luck replacing u-joints and wouldn't mind having some adult supervision. I'm confident it's straight (but will double check) and I'll order Spicer parts for the rebuild. I was able to free it up with a tsunami of WD-40, time, and a little elbow grease but there's no way this is going back in my rig. Not like it is now

We can work out a day to do this, I'm guessing you're doing the club camp and run next weekend. Maybe the weekend after that. And like I always say, "thanks again Kurt"

Carl McFly wrote:... I'm guessing you're doing the club camp and run next weekend. Maybe the weekend after that.

Actually I can't make that run, wedding to attend that Saturday.
The following weekend I have the NEA meeting to attend on Saturday but that Sunday would be good (8/2).
Might make for a good Tech write up for Tracks

I'm curious, can you add a CV with a zerk fitting when rebuilding a stock TJ DS? The combination of increased DS angle and mud/water is why the stock CV doesn't last too long.

I don't see why not.

South Shore drive-line is awesome they did a great job shortening my rear drive-shaft(they did it first thing and in about 1:30 min). They build them too super fast turn around.

TW has zerk on his center balls , why wouldnt a rebuild kit have that option . The only pain I see is having to drop the DS to grease it (mine anyway) . Thought about putting a flap door in the bed but now the tool/sound box is sitting right there. Grease is cheap ! Just DOIT ! FjR68

Progress - I have the CV end disassembled and cleaned thank you, thank you. Looking at replacement parts and I want to stick with Spicer. The originals lasted 15 years and if the replacements last that long, that just means they'll outlast the rest of the rig. My question now is regarding part numbers. It looks like there's two options for the Spicer socket yoke asmy - 211355x and 211544X

From what I can tell, 355X is greasable and 544x, isn't. That sound right? I'm leaning towards the 355X

Carl McFly wrote:...From what I can tell, 355X is greasable and 544x, isn't. That sound right? I'm leaning towards the 355X

You have it correct.

If you get in a pinch I have a brandy new greasable one here.

Kurt wrote:

Carl McFly wrote:...From what I can tell, 355X is greasable and 544x, isn't. That sound right? I'm leaning towards the 355X

You have it correct.

Cool, thanks Kurt. Just got the last u-joint out. Cleaned up the crud in all the grooves, lubed it so it doesn't rust and it's almost ready for reassembly. Almost. Ordering new parts and with any luck, I can get this done sometime this week but if I scroo it up, you know I'll be paying you a visit, right?

Parts came in and started assembly and fortunately, I found a bore on the center yoke that was a little loose. U-joint cap pretty much fell in. It was fortunate because I just started reassembly, it woulda sucked to find this at the end. Sourcing a new center yoke, this project is heading into the weekend

Trying to make sense of it, this yoke / u-joint was under an incredible amount of stress from the centering yoke seizing. The bore didn't look oblong but apparently it stretched a little. I'll keep it as a trail spare. This rebuild is a PITA but if it failed again because I was lazy and re-used a questionable yoke? I'd have a hard time dealing with that

Kurt - so far, so good looks like you're off the hook

Documenting this as a tech write up for Tracks, so can all share my pain. Or laugh at me

And it's done The bad news is, I made just about every mistake you can make. Good news is, I learned from my mistakes and documented them so maybe you can exploit my experiences



Relive my driveshaft escapades in the August issue of Tracks, coming to a social media site near you (FB, Twitter and of course, the BSJ forums )

And I have 4 Wheel Drive again. I read on some forums how it's a wicked PITA to install the DS because of access to the bolts at the t-case end. Read horror stories of ratchets with extensions and wobbles and stripped bolts, all in an attempt to install or remove it without dropping the skid plate. I had none of those problems. Was able to reach in with a 1/4" ratchet and 8mm socket, with the t-case skid in place. Kind of a PITA but no big, probably took me 15 minutes for that end and then another few minutes for the axle end

Quick drive and it hit me how many noises that rickety driveshaft was making. I'm not saying my rig is quiet as a hybrid but there's a LOT fewer noises, squeaks and groans than there was a week ago

Nicely done Carl!