Baystate Jeepers

The next big thing for my little jeep is a (are) skid(s). I've got a gas tank skid, so the transfer case skid (aka mud shovel, belly pan) and engine skids are next. I've decided to go with

Belly up options:

1. 1" deep transmission skid, low profile transmission mount, body lift, motor mount lift, Novak shifter - $870

2. 2" deep transmission skid, engine skid, low profile transmission mount, Novak shifter - $950

3. 2" deep transmission skid, low profile transmission mount, Novak shifter - $660

Option 1 is best break over, but no engine skid, adds body lift, fit 33's easy. No fitment issues. Can add engine skid later.

Option 2 is full coverage, but less break over angle, no body lift so tighter fitting 33's. Possible clearance issues at transfer case.

I'm thinking option 1 is the best option. I'll be almost fully skidded, and best ground clearance. Option 2 is fully skidded but more expensive and less ground clearance. Both option 2 and 3 have potential clearance issues at the transfer case, and the 1" body lift makes it easier to get at certain things for washing, wiring, replacing, etc.

Thoughts?

I have a 1" BL and belly up and a tcase and oil pan skod. not sure who make it,,, but the more coverage the better, and a smooth belly wont hurt breakover angle as much as you may think. Why not #2 with a body lift? my oil pan is fubar....

Dan - who makes these? The '1 inch deep transmission skid', I'm guessing it's a lower profile than the factory piece, right? Does that change your driveshaft geometry and you have to go SYE? My personal opinion, I'm not a fan of my body lift. But it was wicked easy to install, it was free, and it let me tuck my gas tank up a couple inches when I bolted on that heavy duty skid

I have a little skid that was designed to be siliconed to the oil pan. Slam Guard I think was the name . Its never been touched. Id say go for the one that gives you the most break over and add on later. FjR68

Voodoo Chile wrote:I have a 1" BL and belly up and a tcase and oil pan skod. not sure who make it,,, but the more coverage the better, and a smooth belly wont hurt breakover angle as much as you may think. Why not #2 with a body lift? my oil pan is fubar....

Thats a good idea, but if i put the body lift on #2, I'd have the clearance to run the 1" deep skid. The skids are the same cost for the 1" versus 2" so it really comes down to what fits best.

Carl McFly wrote:Dan - who makes these? The '1 inch deep transmission skid', I'm guessing it's a lower profile than the factory piece, right? Does that change your driveshaft geometry and you have to go SYE? My personal opinion, I'm not a fan of my body lift. But it was wicked easy to install, it was free, and it let me tuck my gas tank up a couple inches when I bolted on that heavy duty skid

UndercoverFab makes these skids, and the low profile transmission mount. Instead of the factory belly pan being 3" deep, the skids will be either 1" or 2" deep. It will change the geometry of the driveshaft, but the rubicon comes with a CV shaft so the angles aren't an issue. In conjunction with a motor mount lift, the angles will not be as drastic a change. Adjustable lower control arms on the rear can change the angles at the pinion to compensate for driveline angles. In theory, body lifts weaken the jeep. They move the forces away from the anchor points creating points torque, these points can fail easier now with the body lift. But since its a 1" lift, it won't make too much difference in reality. I wasn't looking to gain an inch of "lift", but it will make things easier in the future.

I've got a Metal Cloak gas skid that will be installed when all these other skids are installed. That'll give me an inch or so extra clearance back there.

Frank wrote:I have a little skid that was designed to be siliconed to the oil pan. Slam Guard I think was the name . Its never been touched. Id say go for the one that gives you the most break over and add on later. FjR68

I've already mangled one oil pan enough to effect oil pickup at idle. Pan was replaced, and I don't want to do that job again. I'm still working on picking better lines, but a full engine skid will protect both the oil pan and transmission. Smooth from engine back past the belly pan. Thats the benefit to the full skid system.

Any other thoughts? I've kind of already decided to go with the 1" deep skid system with body lift, motor mounts, but I'd still like to hear others thoughts, hopefully other aspects I haven't thought of yet.

Thanks All!

I know that when we did Jeffs wrench fest we removed part of his skid and the thing was mangled ! So wasnt his oil pan. I would weld in some reinforcement before install. FjR68

Frank wrote:I would weld in some reinforcement before install. FjR68

I welded in some reinforcements to my skid. But I waited until it looked like a half moon and needed a 50 ton press to straighten it out.... THEN I called in the reinforcements

Many of us have installed a small body lift, and I think the 1" is the way to go. The CG change isn't that significant, but an extra 1" of clearance on the belly is huge. I also agree that you should instal the ML lift at the same time so you don't have to deal with fan shroud issues, having to change driveline angles twice, etc.

I also agree with Franky and Cahl about reinforcing skids. Even a mildly gusseted 1/4 plate steel skid will not last for long; you really need heavy gussets if you're gonna wheel hard. Given that you have already mangled an oil pan you wheel hard enough to bend a belly skid. I'd def reinforce the engine skid as well, one of the welds on mine split wide open the first time out. It is now gusseted with 1/2" thick plate!

This is the skid in question. (http://undercoverfab.com/transfer-case- ... rance.html) I'll be going with the 1/4" Steel.

Where would these gussets need to go? I don't have a welder or experience with welding.

BlackNBlue-ISH wrote: Where would these gussets need to go? I don't have a welder or experience with welding.

Dan my friend, I'll be glad to help you out. And I can think of a couple others that would also be glad to help you. I didn't gusset my t-case skid but I did weld angle iron on my engine skid, running north to south, because of how it bowed. My thought process was the 1" angle iron would add that much more rigidity and make it infinitely harder to bend. OK I'm sure there's a number on the structural integrity but I'm not doing tangents and cosigns on a Friday

Just realized I might have the same t-case skid. Bought it used (I'm a cheep bastid, we all know that) but I'll bet a nickel it's the same. If it is? It's strong as hell. Mine hasn't warped at ALL. My engine skid? Now that's a different story

I made the purchase! Novak shifter, undercover fab skid and transmission mount, rough country body and motor mount lift.

Next up, paint. The skid is coming in bare steel, and if like to coat it in something that'll last. I was thinking POR-15 would do the trick. It applies to bare metal and creates a super tough layer of paint. Fully paint it in that, then touch it up with regular spray can stuff it it needs it later on.

Way to go Dan ! Wanna do Elm St. ? FjR68

Elm street? I'm afraid I'm unfamiliar with that one

BlackNBlue-ISH wrote:Elm street? I'm afraid I'm unfamiliar with that one

One of the nastier trails at F&F

Kurt wrote:

BlackNBlue-ISH wrote:Elm street? I'm afraid I'm unfamiliar with that one

One of the nastier trails at F&F

Let me get the skids installed, bigger tires, engine skid, and paid off, then I'll take a look.