Baystate Jeepers

Is it worth swawping for D44 Rubi axles or just wait and get or build dynatrac 60 or 14 bolt axles with an Arctec kit?

Anyone done this?

Kind of depends on how much you have to pay for the Rubi take-offs, how complete are they, stuff like that. My personal preference is to only do something once, so if I'm going for an axle swap I would go right to where I want to end up. But that's just me.

Other around here enjoy working on rigs as much as offroading them, and would like doing multiple axle swaps. Don't forget to take that into consideration.

4k for brand new Rubi axles but will need to be re-gear up from 3.73 to 4.88 or 4.56 and i believe they have lockers too. I have no idea how much it costs to build the arctec axles but would assume it's mostly labor, I want to retain my 5x5 bolt patter so i can use my current wheels, I really love them. There is also no way I will ever pay10k for a dyntrac 60 but there are some solid used ones for under 5k

Dyanatrac is much stronger. But If you gusset and reinforce the rubicon axles they will do fine with a 35" tire. If you go much larger 37-40" you should hold off for tons or Dynatrac.. Ball joints are another week link along with stock steering components on the Rubicon.. We always want to go bigger tires and you have 35s so hold off would be my advice.....

If you are worried about your stock axle you could go with an Artec truss kick. Once you upgrade I am sure you could sell your trussed stock axles for at least what the Artec trusses cost. People with stock axles would get it and just swap their whole axle. Just an idea.

schwalby wrote:If you are worried about your stock axle you could go with an Artec truss kick. Once you upgrade I am sure you could sell your trussed stock axles for at least what the Artec trusses cost. People with stock axles would get it and just swap their whole axle. Just an idea.

That's a good idea! Lock the front or rear first?

I am going to get a winch and front bumper(might just get a plate for the stock bumper) soon and was thinking of the next couple things. I should also probably get the AEV tire carrier and eventually get
http://www.northridge4x4.com/exterior/r ... -17-61-040

or a body mount tire carrier but I want enough clearance to use my hitch mount bike carrier. And some corn skins so i can use my nutsert tool some more.

I locked my rear only (so far) and I have been happy with it. I think that is the norm if people only do one or one at a time.

How tough is the install?

I didn't do the install. But install lockers or regearing can be a bit tricky.

Spudcannons wrote:How tough is the install?

Lunchbox is a layup if you keep the same gears.
Others that are a full case replacement are relatively easy if you keep the gearing. Basically replace the carrier, adjust to maintain the correct backlash and your done.
If you change the gearing then it's a big job setting up the new gears properly. Pinion depth, pinion pre-load, carrier preload, gear pattern drive & coast, ....

bah then I may need to have them professionally installed

Most people/shops get between 250 and 350 to change out a gear set , install your locker ---- if you bring them just the axle housing empty of shafts,brakes and all non important stuff . If you drive in the Jeep to the shop , expect to pay 7 to 850 to do the same job. Like Kurt said , Its not a task for someone that can only change spark plugs or an oil and filter. Really , if you arent afraid and have good comprehension , try looking up - setting up a differential and see if you got it. You would know in about 6 miles ! Ive been told and read that 44s can live with 37s with the right driver. The earlier 44s (TJ) were much stronger than the JK 44s. Again , Im told and read that you can sleeve the tubes , gusset the inner -Cs_ change out the knuckles and you have a good axle. Don had a good point when he said doing it once. Think about spending a year behind the wheel , find your Jeeps weakness and what you want to upgrade will come into focus . Stay wheelin my friend ! FjR68

That's good advice! I was only thinking of these option because re-gearing in my future with the 3.21 gears even though the first gear in the auto is very deep it has lost a bit of power.

Look at a tire/axle ratio chart and it will show you with the stock size tires what the RPM is at 60 MPH. Now with a 6 speed? they are giving you the ratio for 1x1 not double over drive. Then look at the new tire size and it will give you several choices to go to , to get back to stock or a little deeper . It usually shows economy , stock , power. Im sayin your lookin for about 4.56/4.88/5.13 one of those will get you back to stock and then some more for wheelin. Ask other JK guys what they got and how they like them. I have only a 4 speed manual with 4.56s and 35s. Told myself to go 88s , no I didnt. Its great with the 56s but would be so much better with the 88s. I dont usually exceed 60/65 on the interstate. I run about 26/2800 RPM instead of 32/3400 . Didnt want to over speed the engine so I put a 4x1 in the T-Case so in low range at 4000 RPM , you can walk faster than me. Absolutely the best solution. Look at ATLAS or ask Ryan how his . Just change the T-Case and when wheelin it will feel like you have 1200x1 ! Get another job to go with the one you have and maybe you can finish your Jeep this year ! NOT welcome Dude ! Its an awesome game we do. FjR68

Picking up front and rear D44 with e-lockers and re-gearing them to 4.88 in mid July!