Safe-T-Cap

[Carl McFly]

Anyone have any experience with the Safe-T-Cap products? I'm looking at these as a possible solution to my (seemingly never ending) rust problem. I've heard overall positive things with the most common gripe being 'they're not as thick as the factory Jeep frame'. If that's the only downside, then I have a solution. Burning some steel plates onto clean, straight rails?

So if you used these or know someone that did can you point them in my direction? I have some questions. Thanks

https://www.autorust.com/product-category/jeep/jeep-tj/

[Hoodoo Man]

a few people at OSJ have used it. I just bumped an old thread over there for you. Will lyk what I find.

[del_TJ]

Cahl, I have a Safe-T-Cap section welded over a rotted wheel well section. I actually drove to AutoRust in RI, got a quote and checked their operation out and decided to have Lou install it. If you're not going to replace the frame, then that's the way to go and I've had zero issues with it. I haven't heard anything negative regarding the sections being thinner than the stock frame, and I don't think it's anything to worry about. Lou installed the repair piece before I had a 220v mig welder. It's obviously easier with a car lift, plasma cutter, a decent welder and it's important to square off the frame and new control arm mount points with a tape measure.

I consider the Safe-T-Caps good stuff, and you can always add more metal to reinforce the upper control arm mounts, etc. It's a good time to treat the inside of the frame while you're in there. Here are a few pics from Elia's a couple year back.

[Hoodoo Man]

a number of folks at OSJ have chimed in and said they like and recommend it. Id imagine Tony can answer any questions but lmk if you want me to reach out to someone there for you.

Go the Safe - T -cap rout Easy to install and well made. Most of my TJ's frame is held together with their products

ive used their gas tank cross member, front body/grille mount and upper rear shock mounts. well built, beefier than original. ive seen their frame parts as well, and would speak the same of frame repair parts

[Carl McFly]

That's great guys, thanks for the info and Tony those pics are awesome they're much better than what I was able to find. Pretty sure I'm going that route

[Frank]

Thats the right way to go carl ! IMO ! We all know how much thats worth. Did two small repairs with their product , Fit was good. It was for a YJ but I would imagine the quality is the same. FjR68

[Hoodoo Man]

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1422958712.970892.jpg (27.31 KiB) Viewed 10807 times

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1422958712.970892.jpg (27.31 KiB) Viewed 10807 times

here are some images shared on the OSJ site of peoples use of the product, only complaint I heard was someone bought a used piece off JF and it had some surface rust and they kind of got stuck with it as safe-t-cap was not part of the sale they couldlt swap it.... so if not using it right away you may want to put something on it to keep it from rusting wd-40 or the like....


IDK whats up with the attachements showing like this, sorry!

[Carl McFly]

Thanks guys! The person that mentioned rust? Pretty sure these ship as bare metal, the FIRST thing I'm doing is priming it. More than once. Pretty sure I'm pulling the trigger on at least the rear section and possibly the middle part too but before I do that, this is definitely a fix that requires a lift. I'm not in a hurry but Jeff can you ask Wayne if and when we can take over his garage again? I'll bring a case of Sammy's (or whatever he wants) and I could definitely use some experienced help with this soooo if anyone's handy with a MIG and up for some cutting and welding? Consider yourself invited!

[Kurt]

Hopefully I can make whatever date is selected.

[Frank]

Carl If any of the areas being replaced has bolts , (body mounts,skids) Id start spraying them a week ahead of time. If they are supporting the body or include suspension parts ,I would take measurements before cutting. On the floor using jack stands the vehicle is supported. In the air all the weight is on the lift pads in the center of the chassis and will have a tendency to bow. Just sayin FjR68

[Hoodoo Man]

Carl I can possibly do a date there on Sunday March 1st or Sat March 7th( if that's not the spring meeting.) Really busy month for me between the girls Feb vacation as we are taking a few days off for that, and I have a business trip to Chicago at the end of the month the 24-28th. Booked up pretty good between now and then. May need to make this one a two rig limit as I really need my commando on the road for GTD unless we have some real small projects to bang out...

[Carl McFly]

Jeff - I'm in no hurry, I'll be grateful to get it done by the Spring. If you schedule a day with your 'mando? I'll be there to help. We can do a separate day for my project. I never tackled a job this big but pretty sure it will take a while. The locating, securing with clamps and tacking my new rail in place will probably take longer than the actual welding

[Hoodoo Man]

Well this is craptaciular! I have the exact same issue on both sides although my frame was plated on the bottom. Rot in the same positions as yours.

Did some more digging to check my options. checked out SANDMAN'S automotive & welding in CT, c He makes complete NEW frame rails & parts for TJ's , Not just the cap type repair that auto rust tech sells. BUT Its betwen 4,200 and 5K+ to have them do the work which takes about 4-5 weeks to do....

I checked out SANDMAN'S automotive & welding in CT, someone at OSJ came across his website when looking for something , He makes complete NEW frame rails & parts for TJ's , Not just the cap type repairthat auto rust tech sells.
Its betwen 4,200 and 5K+ to have them do the work which takes about 4-5 weeks to do....

WC Motorsports gets frames from the south and they are in Foxboro they run around 1300 and its can be painted and sand blasted for another 500.... ..

Not sure what I will do from here... I may go the safe-t cap route, or simply plate and patch whats there... The witch of the new frame is with my long arm kit I will need to cut and weld all over again and already have some upgrades to this frame... Lou is working up a quote for me to do the work but I suspect that will be over a grand too...

[Carl McFly]

Well this is craptaciular! I have the exact same issue on both sides although my frame was plated on the bottom. Rot in the same positions as yours.

Did some more digging to check my options. checked out SANDMAN'S automotive & welding in CT, c He makes complete NEW frame rails & parts for TJ's , Not just the cap type repair that auto rust tech sells. BUT Its between 4,200 and 5K+ to have them do the work which takes about 4-5 weeks to do....

Sorry to hear that Jeff. It sucks. Prices like that are why I considered ditching my rig. Not sure Safe-T-Cap is a good fit for you and while it's not a complete frame it does involve cutting out the rotted parts of the frame, leaving the top rail and some overlap on the side to weld the new rail to it. They sell patches for both sides that include the rear CA mount / curving vertical piece and it runs all the way to your front CA mount. Both sides run just under $1k (~$500/side) and if you decide to go that route you can obviously count on my help with the install

[midniteryder]

Well this is craptaciular! I have the exact same issue on both sides although my frame was plated on the bottom. Rot in the same positions as yours.

Did some more digging to check my options. checked out SANDMAN'S automotive & welding in CT, c He makes complete NEW frame rails & parts for TJ's , Not just the cap type repair that auto rust tech sells. BUT Its betwen 4,200 and 5K+ to have them do the work which takes about 4-5 weeks to do....

I checked out SANDMAN'S automotive & welding in CT, someone at OSJ came across his website when looking for something , He makes complete NEW frame rails & parts for TJ's , Not just the cap type repairthat auto rust tech sells.
Its betwen 4,200 and 5K+ to have them do the work which takes about 4-5 weeks to do....

WC Motorsports gets frames from the south and they are in Foxboro they run around 1300 and its can be painted and sand blasted for another 500.... ..



jeff stay away from WC In Foxboro. he is a hack. Carol and i are very happy with Safety Cap for both rigs.

Not sure what I will do from here... I may go the safe-t cap route, or simply plate and patch whats there... The witch of the new frame is with my long arm kit I will need to cut and weld all over again and already have some upgrades to this frame... Lou is working up a quote for me to do the work but I suspect that will be over a grand too...