Baystate Jeepers

Didn't want to hi-jack Ralph's thread, so I'll throw this out there. Question came up regarding a tie-rod flip and Franky - the MAN - asks.....

Frank wrote: If the right side BJ is cast into the tie rod , your saying it would all have to be replaced in the case of a tired TRE ? FjR68

Yes

Frank wrote: Is that the shorter drag link that ties to the knuckle of is the drag link knuckle to knuckle and the drag link meets it 2" from the right side end. FjR68

The latter

Frank wrote:Couldnt you cut the tie rod and use an insert and weld a threaded bung so it could be flipped . Engineers, gotta lovem! Smartest dumb people on the planet ! FjR68

ummmmmmmm................. ..... good question. What if we did something similar to the driver side -


cut the existing TRE from the passenger side and weld a toob over the beefy part of the tie rod. A toob similar to the one on the drivers side, but without a slice down its gut. Thread in a Currie TRE and you could do a passenger side flip

Thoughts? Holes in the logic? Maybe we're reinventing the wheel?

Well, is it really necessary? The drivers side tre flip gets the whole drag link higher, but flipping the passenger side wouldn't really accomplish that much.

On a stock set up, the connection between the tie rod and drag link is above the knuckles already. The drag link then angles down toward the bottom end of the knuckle. By flipping that side it gets the whole drag link above the knuckle increasing clearance. Flipping the passenger side will not gain you a ton of extra clearance. Right?

(I may have gotten the terms for drag link and tire rod mixed up, but was consistent, so just flip them and it'll make sense... maybe)

The drivers side flip made a huge difference as far as clearance and dollar for dollar, one of the most cost effective mods I did. But it threw the geometry off. Flipping the passenger side would restore the steering geometry and maybe restore a semblance of control

That does make sense. It would put all the angles back to stock with a lift. Is there a different tie rod that has a different you can buy off the shelf?

I'm running a Currie, there's no option on a modified tie rod. As far as I know. And while I'm a huge fan of the additional clearance, the drivers side TRE flip / modified geometry means a lil drift
Not sure there's an option for the stocker setup to flip the passenger side TR

See , Its this that drives me ! I think Karhl The sleeve should be heavy wall and of course it would need the fine thread pitch to match. The big question would be in a normal tie rod it would have right and left handed thread so one would just rotate the tie rod to adjust. You wouldnt be able to do that in this case as the drag link is attached . So Im thinking both right hand thread wont be an issue. Most Important would be , by raising or fliping the right side also you would be cutting down on drag link angle and therefore reducing or eliminating bump steer . Problem solved , Send me a check for about 40052k856dollars and well call it even. Or just be my friend , which ever is less restricting . Great idea you had , RUN widit ! FjR68

Frank wrote:See , Its this that drives me ! I think Karhl The sleeve should be heavy wall and of course it would need the fine thread pitch to match. The big question would be in a normal tie rod it would have right and left handed thread so one would just rotate the tie rod to adjust. You wouldnt be able to do that in this case as the drag link is attached . So Im thinking both right hand thread wont be an issue. Most Important would be , by raising or fliping the right side also you would be cutting down on drag link angle and therefore reducing or eliminating bump steer

This is why I like to throw stuff out there. Great back and forth discussion. I agree, the threads won't matter as far as adjustment. Adjustment (toe in / out) will still be done with the driver side TRE. But it would have to be a standard, right hand thread so a jam nut would work. And having a threaded passenger side TRE would allow changing that TRE if (when) it wears out. Like you said, use a thick sleeve. Weld it on the TR, insert the TRE and secure it with lock tite and a jam nut

Frank wrote: Problem solved , Send me a check for about 40052k856dollars and well call it even. Or just be my friend, which ever is less restricting. Great idea you had , RUN widit! FjR68

yeahhhhhh about that idea? Not so sure I can take the credit

Two heads a bigger than one ! Giter Done ! FjR68

I tried plotting through all of the questions for my TJ. I had worn out 3 sets of Currie HD. Final decision was to go to WJ knuckles/calipers for a high steer/brake upgrade. With the assistance of Elias 4wd, I've been running a TNT high steer trackbar & brackets and Ruff Stuff 1ton crossover steering for about a year now... a decision I've been very satisfied with.

Currie has this cool, rebuildable, steering setup for JKs - perhaps they should revise their HD system for TJs in a similar way.

So Im hearing you say the right side knuckle has two holes ? One for the drag link and the other is for the tie rod ? True cross over steering or does the drag link connect to the tie rod near the knuckle ? FjR68

Frank wrote:So Im hearing you say the right side knuckle has two holes ? One for the drag link and the other is for the tie rod ? True cross over steering or does the drag link connect to the tie rod near the knuckle ? FjR68

True crossover.

Did Elias drill the knuckles or is it cross over steering stock. Thats what everyone should do if its a bolt on option. Its truly the one way to fix what Chrysler screwed up ! FjR68

Reamed to larger taper for 1ton tie rods.

Yes , but were the two holes already there ? Is that a stock WJ knuckle reamed out ??? Every TJ owner should do this if its a bolt on option. FjR68