Baystate Jeepers

I've read you can make your own if you are careful removing the existing bearings by slightly enlarging the ID however my luck is typically not that good
The front diff is out of the heap ,axle shafts removed and drained, the new ring and Pinion set along with master install kit is due to arrive tomorrow.........
Since this is my first R&P job I want to give myself the best chance for success in the shortest time possible, so I'm looking to borrow a set of bearings . Does anyone have a set I can borrow ?

It's honestly not that hard, I made a set of setup bearings using a sanding drum and my drill press. Just work them around until they just slide smoothly over the carrier.

I also have my old set, so you can absolutely borrow them if you'd like. In fact, you can have them, the Dana 30 is long gone from my heep!

Agreed
It's very easy to use the old ones by enlarging the ID just a touch.
I've done it a few times with great success.
Unfortunately I don't have any D30 setup bearings on hand

Baseshakers wrote:It's honestly not that hard, I made a set of setup bearings using a sanding drum and my drill press. Just work them around until they just slide smoothly over the carrier.

I also have my old set, so you can absolutely borrow them if you'd like. In fact, you can have them, the Dana 30 is long gone from my heep!

Sweet, I'll give you a shout and arrange to grab them.
Thanks

Dave : If you measure the shim pack of what your taking out , start with the same amount of new shims on the new parts . Assuming the pattern was good to begin with. Most Dana housing are so close it should almost be right there. The pinion depth is critical and preload (side load) is just the final adjustment. I believe when the pinion is in and at torque you will have 20" pounds of resistance . Make sure the bearing caps for the carrier stay side to side and in the correct up and down position. Most of the time there is a mark from the fact. to match them up. Giter done ! FjR68

Thanks all. Stuck in NJ working but am going to give it the O'le boy scout try this weekend.
The shims appear to all be on the outside with the ARB so it may be easy, Have fun this weekend and keep the shiny sides up !

Being stuck in N.J. is like owning a Prius ! Now that Mona is scarred , I can start driving like you ! WhoooHooo ! FjR68

Pinion pre-load is critical.

Finally got the time to pull the front diff apart and discovered what went wrong.
It appears the pinion preload was hosed as the pinion was able to freely move up and down. Not sure if this was a result of the exploded pinion gear or the cause of it, I suspect the latter as the pinion bearing was trashed as well.
Click on the image below to see/hear the pinion as I press on the pinion flange from below while it was still attached.



Good news is the Harbor Freight bearing removal tool kit and optional large bearing separator worked well and everything was easily disassembled . Used 3 cans of brake cleaner along with some wire brushing and compressed air everything cleaned up nice. I was able to make a pinion setup bearing by utilizing the old bearing which was removed intact .
Interesting note the ARB places the shims on the outside of the bearing so I do need setup bearings for the carrier which should make for easy adjustment of preload and checking of tooth pattern(s).
I did need to order replacement pinion baffle and oil slinger along with new ARB O-rings so I'll need to wait on parts to re-assemble.
I'm debating weather to bring the bearings to a local shop or bite the bullet and grab a press from Harbor Freight so I can get the bearings on the carrier and perform some trial setups and tooth patterns before pressing on the new pinion bearing with correct shim pack for the final re-assembly.
Has anyone had good/bad luck with the $129 HF 12 ton upright press ? Is the $199 20 ton a better option ?

I have the 12 ton, it's awesome, all the power you need (enough to straighten control arms and currie steering without breaking a sweat) Great to have in a shop

Baseshakers wrote:I have the 12 ton, it's awesome, all the power you need (enough to straighten control arms and currie steering without breaking a sweat) Great to have in a shop

Ditto...

I have the 12 ton too. Works great!
You're welcome to borrow mine if you wish.

"I have the 12 ton, it's awesome"
12 ton it is $129 and I will use my 20% Coupon
Thanks guys

Big -D- You do somethin , you do it all the way ! I suspect the pinion bearing started that whole mess. Try to mic the shim pak on there and it will give you a good starting place for the depth. I dont know if your wasting your time trying to get the right pattern with out the actual final install. Once your good on the pinion depth and preload the side load is easy. Most people use a magnetic dial indicator for that step. You dont want the pinion teeth to touch the bottom of the ring gear , but its gonna be close. There wont be any hint of bind as you rotate the pinion. Use a rag in your hand to try a put drag on the ring gear as you rotate it. It helps show a good pattern. Ill be at lake Umbagaug in N.H. Wed/Sun. will call you on the way home. FjR68

thanks for the advice, I'll play with the setup bearing with original shim pack measurement and see if I can pull a good pattern before pressing the new pinion bearing. that should get me really close if not spot on, at least thats what the write- ups say

I stopped travelling long enough to get the heap back together. Since I had purchased this axle used I decided to replace everything as it was already out and mostly disassembled. Upgraded to Alloy full metal ball joints, replaced the ARB actuator and O-rings along with adding axle seals heck I even added shocks
I decided to do a tie rod flip and upgraded to the HD Chevy 1-ton ends. Lets hope it lasts another few years

Was able to get a good final pattern on the 2'cd try after replacing the setup bearings with the newbies....



Here you can see the new tie rod and Chevy end





I get to "break" it all in this week at Rauch