Baystate Jeepers

So I finally got around to pulling the cover of my front diff to see what all the noise was about from the last run at field and forest
I pretty much new when the front wheels kept locking up when free wheeling during my limp back to the field it was not a good sign for the gears.
It appears the pinion lost a few teeth (not sure how that could have happened) which then trashed the ring gear



I guess now is as good as time as any for me to attempt to replace the R&P. Since I purchased this axle used I have no idea of the miles on the ARB locker or the 4:56 gear set not to mention the use/abuse it may have endure before I acquired it.
I believe a master kit is in order to perform a complete overhaul.
A quick Google search shows the Alloy USA gear sets have a generally good rating and 5 year warranty. Has anyone had experience (good or bad) with Alloy or other manufactures for the dana 30 ?

I use Richmond gear but I have read that Alloy USA stands behind their stuff. Not that this axle will ever see abuse from you , so it really shouldnt be an issue . If you need help , you let me know. FjR68

We sell and install Motive Gear at Elias 4wd Center - usually. We also spec out using of Dana 50 specific ring gear bolts. This is a good time to update the ARB Locker to the new one or replace it with something that will not aerate the gear oil if there is an internal air leak in the diff.

If you pull the main caps off and the carrier doesn't need to be removed with force, like a bar behind it, it's time to replace the whole housing, as the required pre-load on the carrier bearings is lost from wear. Chances are pretty good there was no pre-load on the pinion, which should be difficult to start rotating by hand.

Check the fine print on that 5 yr warranty if you're going to do the repair yourself. It is usually limited to installation by one of their approved dealers.

Thanks guys, it appears the warranty is less of an issue then a proper install
As for foaming when leaking I very rarely drive on the street and the front is only engaged as needed so I'm not too worried. Good call on the carrier preload, I'll pull the carrier this weekend before ordering replacement parts as the more $$ I put into a Dana 30 the more it make sense to upgrade to a 44. Problem is current funding is limited

I'm finally home and not traveling for a weekend and I'm re-assembling my axle. My minimum goal is to get it assembled, shimmed and adjusted with the setup bearings to pull a good pattern before pressing the new bearings onto pinion. I'm hoping Ii will be close enough that the Pinion depth is good with the new bearings Vs setup and then I can adjust carrier pre-load as the shim pack is on the outside on the ARB. If Murphy stay away I may even get it buttoned up and back in the Heap.
I've got what maybe a silly question, I've got a 1/4" inch/Lbs torque wrench however it is the twist /click type, like a screw driver.
Is this suitable for setting the pinion pre-load ?

As long as the preload torque is within it's usable range I don't see why you couldn't use it.
Torque is torque

Yes Dave : Thats usually what a inch pound torque wrench is .25" drive Dana has been so good at making their axle housings ,its gonna be unusual for the pinion depth to be different enough to worry about. Right up to the switch to left side drive all parts were interchangeable. I have 79 spindles on 86 axles under a 74 to keep my locking hubs and brakes. Its a shame they made the inner "Cs" on your axle so big as not to allow you to change them to locking hubs. I think I would cut them off and weld on earlier ones to have that option. The only kit Ive seen for this is around a "K" , thats crazy. Good luck with the build. Youll do fine . FjR68

Thanks got entire axle stripped including ball joints so it was nothing but bare metal.Wire brushed the whole so it will get a total rebuild and a fresh coat of paint.
Got everything re-assembled yesterday and will get back at here this AM. I did discover the hard air line to the ARB actuator was broken due to the metal chunks that had been circulating around inside. I've got a new one on order but will continue with final setup today to get a good pattern. I had hoped to get it finished today but will have settle for almost.

So this is what it looks like on my third try. The bearing/oil baffle measures 0.20 . so it needs to be accounted for during final assembly. I have three 0.15 shims for a total of stack of 0.45 which would be the baffle +0.25 for final assembly.
Is this close enough for pinion depth or should I try an additional 0.005 for good measure ?

Look pretty good to me

Sweet, thank you. Now I just need to replace the setup bearing on the pinion set the final pre-lead and ensure it still looks good.
I can button everything backup once the new ARB seal housing /activator arrives later this week.

Dave From the pics it looks like the pinion will be happy. Its hard to see the depth at which its running. The wear mark is more than half the way into but NOT touching the bottom ? I cant tell from the pics for sure but it looks like it could move over closer to the pinion. Pre-load . Steal a shim from the side the ring gear is not on and add it to the side with the ring gear. There should be about .006 clearance between the ring&pinion. Dont know if the YJ has a different spec. I just looks to me to be a little shallow. Buy stealing a thin shim from the right side it will put the pinion a little deeper into the ring gear .Look at the blown up set and look for the wear mark you had. You will see what I mean. It looks like there is meat left on the broken teeth . Now the broken parts made a mess of the rest of them so just look for the shiny spot. My unprofessional opinion at best ! FjR68