Baystate Jeepers

I've been making my head spin trying to figure out what to do with gears and lockers. I have a non-Rubicon 2012 JK 4-door and currently run 32" tires. I want to get to a larger tire (34-35") in the next year. I was looking at doing 4.56 gears and putting an air locker (either ARB or Yukon Zip) in the rear.

This got me thinking about my front Dana 30 and whether I can/should lock it. I've read the hundreds of posts about the JK Dana 30 and how you can and can't get away with locking. I think I have a good understanding that the Dana 30 axel tubes are relatively weak, the R&P may not survive lockers on big tires, and there are some low cost reinforcements that could be done.

I'm looking for a more local opinion because you guys know the types of trails and wheeling we encounter. I'm easy on the gas, but would like to get some more traction. I'd hate to a lot of money on my Dana 30 with lockers, gear, and labor. But I can't figure out if a stronger axle is really worth it for my moderate wheeling style around here.

My thoughts:

Just regear the Dana 30 and leave open, lock the rear
Lock both front and rear and cross my fingers
Upgrade and lock the beefy Dynatrac ProRock44 or Tera44 front

Dave : I run a CJ with a 30 front axle ,4.56 and a lockrite locker with 35s for about 6 or 7 yrs. Putting a selectable in any axle is a plus as street driving isnt affected . The front end you have is strong enough to do moderate wheelin and you said you were easy on it. If its an auto that makes it even easier on the 30. In my opinion , look at the Detroit True-Trac. Its a gear drive limited slip that you wont know is in there and will make a huge difference on the trail. As for gearing , again , I have 4.56s and wished I went 4.88s. Look at an gear ratio chart and get the gear that will put it back to stock or one or two steps toward power. A lot of JK owners are running 56s or 88s with 35s. You need to know what tire your going to by to get the right gears. Hope this helps with your selection. FjR68

We've got 4.88 on 35's in the black JK and with the non-rubi t-case it crawls too fast. IMO if you're going to regear, I'd go beyond 4.56 or you'll wish you had.


Sent from my stupid iThingy using Tapatalk.

I forgot to mention that I have a Rubi T-case in mine.

DaveP, come to Elias 4wd Center.
We'd set you up with 4.88s and OX Lockers, probably with electric activation on cables.

The most common locker failure I see on the trail is air lockers with leaks.
The worst case scenario is it leaks internally, aerates your gear oil and it snow balls in breakage.

Around 2.5" lift and some Toyo MT LT285/75R17 makes a really, really capable Jeep on this 34x11.50 tire and that gear ratio. Gas mileage (assuming an AEV procal is used) is pretty good, and performance is a little better on the street. And if you get into deep mud and need wheel speed, or deep snow, you can use 4 hi/first gear.

D30 on 34s + moderate wheeling + 4.88 = you can eat your cake, too.
I would seriously consider Tom Wood's drive shafts, too, so your 2.5" lift can be tuned for a lot of axle droop.
JKS Ultimate quick disconnects.

How often do you see failures with the air lockers? Do people leave them actuated other than when going over an obstacle? I am leaning towards an air locker because I recently installed a compressor and have some money in it. Are there additional costs for the electric actuators on the Ox?

Any experience with Yukon zip lockers?

Ive seen one or two air lines get destroyed , its an easy fix if its out side the differential. Having the 4x1 T-case is a real big plus. You get street able gears and a great off road advantage. I have a 4x1 also with 56s and you heard me say , I should have done 88s. Dont short change yourself , with the 4x1 youll be all set. I see some people only turn on the front locker when they need it as the Jeep will turn much easier and quicker (on a trail) when its off. It wont hurt the locker if you leave them on all day , it just wants to go straight ! A lot of air actuated lockers have no issues at all, but all it takes is a leak to stop functioning. A cable operated one is a mechanical , Ive heard they are a PITA to adjust and then maintain. All this is my opinion as I run lockrites F&R and they are working all the time FjR68

I am definitely a fan of the ARB airlockers, yes a leak can cause it to stop working but I have seen plenty of issues with OX locker cables on the trail... I think it boils down to personal preference. You may want to sleeve and gusset the D30 to help keep it alive but they are decent axles.

As for my ARB I only turn it on when I am using it and often will try an obstacle with the locker off first. I have a stock Rubicon locker in the front and it has served me well also but as this is a TJ there are some big differences in the lockers compared to the newer JKs.

Keep an out on NEOW for axles too, there is JK Rubi 44 front on there now but the tube is already bent...
http://neow.net/forum/index.php?showforum=48

Other than the ring & pinion/pumpkin, aren't the JK Rubi axels using the same tubes as the 30? I know the shaft/spline count is different too. Is it worth spending a few thousand on a Rubi takeoff and still having to sleeve/gusset?

DaveP wrote:Other than the ring & pinion/pumpkin, aren't the JK Rubi axels using the same tubes as the 30? I know the shaft/spline count is different too. Is it worth spending a few thousand on a Rubi takeoff and still having to sleeve/gusset?

I see a lot of ARB lockers fail off road and in the shop.
Stock TJ Rubicon lockers are more reliable.
There are HUGE differences in a JK 44, huge. Many parts do not interchange with any other D44.
If you were thinking of a take off, I do brand new Rubi axles from Chrysler for pretty good deals. Just call me at work.

With an OX locker, the shifter is the most expensive part, and it takes up a lot of room inside. The E-Activated just takes the room of a switch, and is cheaper. It allows for a short cable, too.