Electric Fan Conversion

[Carl McFly]

I want to ditch my factory clutch / fan asmy and bolt in a SPAL electric fan. Not looking to reinvent the wheel, has anyone done it and have recommendations? Installing in a TJ, FYI

Started perusing the (other) forums out there and got tired of trying to filter out the bickering and bullsh!t. Sooo many opinionated people out there with nothing better to do than shoot down ideas and tell people they're doing it wrong

ANYWAY, if you did it and it worked for you, I'd love to know how you did it. I have a 16" SPAL that's rated at moving 2470 CFM while pulling 20 AMPS but I heard the start-up draw can be much higher

Any and all technical tips or "it worked for me" stories are appreciated. Hopefully you'll be seeing a tech write up in Tracks before you know it

Thanks

[Modeler]

I've had the Flex-a-lite #485 (IIRC) in mine since about a year after I got my LJ. Installation was a snap and although I have replaced the motor and the control module one time each in the nearly 7 years it has been installed, it was the single best modification I've done. If I ever do anything further to the system it will be to convert from the temperature probe that slides between the radiator fins to the style that sits in the coolant directly through a port in a hose adapter.

[Frank]

I also have a similar fan. My mechanical fan ate the radiator in Rausch so I went electric. One 16 puller inside (engine) one 14 outside (behind grill). The pusher fan is switched and I use this for helping the auto fan if it needs it. Like Modeler , I would change out the temp probe in the fins of the radiator . Although Ive never had an issue , it seams to be slow to turn it on no matter how you adjust it. Should be straight forward install dude. Both mine have a round zip tie like gizmo going through the fins and the holder is on the other side or the rad. Cheap and easy to replace if you change something. FjR68

[mrfreakinwhite]

I wouldn't worry about the initial amp draw.

Personally, I skip the probes and do a switch with a light. At any rate, you want to be able to shut the fan off for water crossings by interrupting the negative side.

[Carl McFly]

Tx guys. I'm definitely leaning towards a switch. The thermal thing would be nice but even if I go that route I'd wire in a switch to override it. This is on my list for the next rain (and wheelin) free weekend. That and my extended brake lines, bump stop extensions, replacement 8" HID's,......

Today I'm going to try to figure out some painless errrrr sort of painless ummmmmm LEAST PAINFUL wiring to get this working

[Baseshakers]

Ca'hl, you should stop by and check out my setup. It took some work to get the electric working properly (and the right control module), but I have a lot of flexibility (pun intended) in controlling the fan.

[Frank]

The control I bought controls when the fan turns on only . Ive dialed it in to turn on at 190 F. It runs way to long after you shut off the engine . At least it seams to maintain a good temp , but once its on and the engine is running , driving even on the street , it will not stop till you stop the engine and thats after it runs for 6-8 minutes . The probe is in the fins at the top right corner where the hottest water from the block returns to the radiator, I assume its the cycling as the water moves through the block and the cooler water pushes the hot water back to the radiator that keeps it running. The mechanical gauge shows about 130ish when it stops. Any one have a model or part # that will stop it also ? Thanks FjR68

[mrfreakinwhite]

The control I bought controls when the fan turns on only . Ive dialed it in to turn on at 190 F. It runs way to long after you shut off the engine . At least it seams to maintain a good temp , but once its on and the engine is running , driving even on the street , it will not stop till you stop the engine and thats after it runs for 6-8 minutes . The probe is in the fins at the top right corner where the hottest water from the block returns to the radiator, I assume its the cycling as the water moves through the block and the cooler water pushes the hot water back to the radiator that keeps it running. The mechanical gauge shows about 130ish when it stops. Any one have a model or part # that will stop it also ? Thanks FjR68

You could use a switch to interrupt the ground after engine shut off. I don't really see a problem with the set up, it sounds like it's working correctly. Except for deep water crossings if you can't disable it.

[Posimoto]

I use a contour dual fan, bmw 2 stage temp switch, and volvo fan controller. Both fans run on low at 190* and high at 210* I grabbed everything at the boneyard for under $25.

[Frank]

Thank you guys . FjR68