Baystate Jeepers

So for the second time in as many visits to FF my chit is broke.

Clearly I'm a little too rough on my stuff and breaking chit, its getting old and I want to do some pointed upgrades this winter. I don't want to be that guy next year.... again. So mike I'm pulling this into this thread... Want to identify the weak links and get them upgraded...

mrfreakinwhite wrote:

Jeff, I love ya like a brothah from anothah mothah...

[rant]
Those threaded ends are TINY. Too small to go throwing 4,500 lbs around on them.
My experience as an observer and sometimes the communication link to a customer with that brand is, well, consistent.
"Sorry, this is broken."
"Sorry, the rod end broke when we loosened the jam nut."
"Sorry, the rod end is bent inside the arm, past the jam nut, you need a new arm and rod end so we can adjust it. We can try to tap the threads, but it isn't going to hold. The inside of the arm is oblong."
"Sorry, it took four hours to align it because we had to adjust every arm to compensate for the lack of thread engagement at this point, and this was preventing your wheel base and track width from being square. Here's the pictures. And you need a super short SYE for your new and unimproved shorter wheel base." / "Sorry, it is going to take several hours to align this because..."

The only brand I've ever seen that uses home 115v outlet and lamp hardware to hold a bushing together.
[/rant]

I'm sitting here wondering if I should click submit or not...

I hope I'm not too blunt this time.

Im glad you posted it mike, truly.



So my rear truss and upper control arms from RockKrawler are gone and good riddance. crap design, bent and broken due to way too little tie ins to the frame. The old uppers were short arm and almost certainly are the reason I snapped my pinon shaft a few years back. Now replaced with an Artec Truss with a consistent weld across the length of the rear axle. The uppers are now ruff stuff industries 1.5" ID 24" length 0.250 DOM

I am thinking replacing the lower control arms with thicker tubing and going with something beffier on the lower like a 7/8", may replace the lower control arms and going 4 link instead of 3 link in the front as well.

Really want to go full high steer in the front, already have a complete currie system for the draglink and tie-rod, so no worries about that for alignments and such and upgraded my tie rod to the synthlink. Want to add a PCS pump and maybe hydro boost as the damn steering box is already trashed after a year and a half.

Now the big question. Do I benefit from one a 9" and or a D60 or can I continue to flog my D44 font and rear, dont want to put RCV shafts and dump another 1K into the things.. I dont want to have a BIG RIG like the Kurt but Im an so freaking sick of being that guy. Dont want to put 20K into the thing and can not afford to bring it to Lou to do the work and I'm not sure I can do crate axles.. so where is my money best spent and what upgrades should be first on the list? I dont mind to go spool in rear and selectable in front but I do love my ARB...



Also sporting the np231 still and need to find a viable upgrade. D300? NP241, is there an affordable Atlas out there? Blast me Im a big boy what can I do to fix the weak links and

Nothing wrong with Dana 44's. I've been beating on them for years. My buggy is getting a Waggy 44 too, with a rear 9".
I also don't think a Dana 300 is better than a 231. In fact, my Jb Conversions 231HD has a higher input torque rating.
Focus on the chit that hits, like those control arms and trusses.

Agreed on t-case, that would be going backwards. Gear it or swap it.

Buy Jim Steele's TJ on the jonfund forum, lower it an inch or two. Clayton long arm, etc. Waggy 44s are sweet.

Then fix your chit cheap and sell it.

Or just buy my Jeep.

Lightly used.

I have had pretty good success with a driver side tie rod flip for the Currie (cheap and easy, just drill out the knuckle and weld in an insert) and the Mr. Blaine hydro-assist which puts the cylinder in where the steering stabilizer goes. Packaging a hydro-assist in a TJ front end is tough, so that's why I really like that kit.

ZAEDOCK wrote:Nothing wrong with Dana 44's. I've been beating on them for years. My buggy is getting a Waggy 44 too, with a rear 9".
I also don't think a Dana 300 is better than a 231. In fact, my Jb Conversions 231HD has a higher input torque rating.
Focus on the chit that hits, like those control arms and trusses.

Joe I chewed up and spit out new u-joints on the front D44 a few times of late, the rear is nicely trussed but I have had DW a few times already up front and I just hate to be replacing short shafts etc....

Ryan I have a half tie rod flip already in on the passenger side to raise the tie rod up some, I would really like to do a full high steer, will look into the Savvvy hydro assist package...

What is considered stout DOM and are 7/8" joints beefy enough for my TJ? DOM and rod ends are a cheap enough project and the front and rear control arms are dirt simple straight pieces so its easy enough to replace the RockKrawler arms there too...

I will look into the 231HD kit as welll....
thanks guys, and mike I dont see me selling my TJ I know the rig you speak of and its nice but I am wayy to deep into this beast to part with it...

Joliet Jake Blues wrote:What is considered stout DOM and are 7/8" joints beefy enough for my TJ? ...

2 " OD 0.25" wall and then use 1 1/4 joints for the lowers.
The uppers can use a thinner wall t00b 1.75" X .120" since they don't get hit like the lowers.

You can just buy Mona and call it a day. You dont even have to wheel anymore, just ride around and get compliments. FjR68

If you're going through u-joints that quickly on 44 shafts, you probably have worn out ears.
Real spicer joints are pretty good.

Jim's frame and suspension are mint. Clayton long arms and a perfect frame. The whole kit was done by Siwinski, and Jim's steering and everything is done. I've convoyed with him at 75-80 mph several times, and road manners aren't something he ever worries about. It's got a Rubi case and 5 speed, full armor, etc. Its worst quirk is it is too tall for its 35s.

Frank wrote:You can just buy Mona and call it a day. You dont even have to wheel anymore, just ride around and get compliments. FjR68

mrfreakinwhite wrote:If you're going through u-joints that quickly on 44 shafts, you probably have worn out ears.
Real spicer joints are pretty good.

Jim's frame and suspension are mint. Clayton long arms and a perfect frame. The whole kit was done by Siwinski, and Jim's steering and everything is done. I've convoyed with him at 75-80 mph several times, and road manners aren't something he ever worries about. It's got a Rubi case and 5 speed, full armor, etc. Its worst quirk is it is too tall for its 35s.

I thinki it was chit u-joints my mechanic tapped in for me before RC. never had a issue with them unitl the last RC trip then I spit one out and another a few weeks later at FF.

The jeep you speak of is being parted out.

I broke an "X" joint in half at F&F and my Warn 4340 30 spline inners and outers came out fine. I decided to run good old Spicer 760's and still have the same ones from Moab. They both survived my entire surplus of hub fuses and the last couple of years with drive slugs.

ZAEDOCK wrote:I broke an "X" joint in half at F&F and my Warn 4340 30 spline inners and outers came out fine. I decided to run good old Spicer 760's and still have the same ones from Moab. They both survived my entire surplus of hub fuses and the last couple of years with drive slugs.

I have spicer 760s in now. Actually one is moog as I could not find a spicer....

Look up JE Reel. I think they have a 297/760 sized joint for 44's.

I'm due for a refresher myself on joints and will be doing some research.

JE Reel D44 joints claim to be 40% stronger than stock. $88 a pop
They include both "C" clips and full circlips. Use the full circlips
http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrain-D ... pn=JERAX44

Another option are the Yukon superjoints. More strength... but more $.
The design eliminates the needle bearing thus allowing the trunion to be larger and stronger.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-135218 ... oints.html

Next up the pricelist are CTM's. Big money!
Like the SuperJoints the design eliminates the needle bearing thus allowing the trunion to be larger and stronger.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-135214 ... -ctms.html


I tried the Alloy USA's. Seemed to be weaker than Spicers in my experience.