Baystate Jeepers

Got almost ALL the things crossed off my 'gotta do' list and went to take my Heep out for a ride and she wont start Guess it would be worse if I was stuck in PA somewhere (trying to find the silver lining... work with me.....)

Here's where I'm at. Turn the key and she doesn't crank. I hear a faint click under the hood. Battery has +12.7V. Swapped the starter and horn relays (they're the same) and the horn works with either relay so it's not the relay

I have +12V all the time on #1 slot of the relay (that's good) and when the ignition key is turned, I get +12V on the #5 relay slot (also good). And when the relay is in, she clicks when you turn the key so all signs point to voltages being OK, at least up to the relay. I think

EDIT - went through the service manual diagnostics and pretty sure it's the starter. I'm dropping that tonight or in the AM and I'll bring it somewhere to be tested. The PDC checks out and the relay checks out, I put a fuse in slot #20 to over-ride the clutch safety switch so pretty sure I covered all my easy bases. Next up is the starter and IIRC, it's an AZ POS so that's where it's going

Tap the starter with a hammer... Prob a dead spot

If the starter is bad, you might want to spend the extra money and get a quality starter. (dealer)

Carl : If yours is like mine you would have a big wire and a skinny wire at the starter. The little one gets 12V when you turn the key to start. It opens a gate (relay)for the high power to the starter motor. You can also use a set of jumper cables , one red clamp to pos. on the batt and the other red clamp to touch the post on the starter. There will be a big spark so expect it. Buy doing this it eliminates the rest of the stuff. FjR68

Frank wrote:Carl : If yours is like mine you would have a big wire and a skinny wire at the starter. The little one gets 12V when you turn the key to start. It opens a gate (relay)for the high power to the starter motor. You can also use a set of jumper cables , one red clamp to pos. on the batt and the other red clamp to touch the post on the starter. There will be a big spark so expect it. Buy doing this it eliminates the rest of the stuff. FjR68

Just yell "CLEAR" before attaching the cable

Frank wrote:Carl : If yours is like mine you would have a big wire and a skinny wire at the starter. The little one gets 12V when you turn the key to start. It opens a gate (relay)for the high power to the starter motor. You can also use a set of jumper cables , one red clamp to pos. on the batt and the other red clamp to touch the post on the starter. There will be a big spark so expect it. Buy doing this it eliminates the rest of the stuff. FjR68

Pretty sure my next step (before I drop the starter) is check for +12V at the skinny wire, when the ignition is keyed. And make sure the big cable has +12V all the time. It just takes a minute to make sure

The big cable only gets power when you turn the key to start ! If you get power to the little wire when key is turned to start , there will be power on the big one also. (LOTS) That will show almost always a bad starter. Is this an automatic or standard ? There is also a neutral safety switch . Standard you will have to put clutch pedal to the floor. Auto , will only start in park or neutral . If it starts in neutral but not park its out of adjustment or going bad. FjR68

Tx Frank. Power's where it should be and of course she started right up when cold. So it's the starter (or solenoid). Unbolted my engine skid, and when I went to drop the starter........... the first bolt snapped I couldn't believe it. These are pretty beefy bolts

Carl,

The starter has 3 terminals. 2 BIG ones and 1 small one below the two biggies.
The BIG one to the passengers side should always have battery power to it. The small one should get power when you turn the key to START.
The last BIG one towards the engine gets power only when the key is in the START position.

First check is to see if the passengers side one has 12 V on it.
Secondly check to see if the small one gets power when the key is in the START position.
If no power to the small one when in the START position then the clutch interlock or ignition switch is suspect.
If power is at the small on in the START position then check the big terminal closer to the engine with the key in the START position.
If power is there when key is in the START position then the starter motor is shot.
If not then the starter solenoid on the started is bad.

Kurt wrote:Carl,

The starter has 3 terminals. 2 BIG ones and 1 small one below the two biggies.
The BIG one to the passengers side should always have battery power to it. The small one should get power when you turn the key to START.
The last BIG one towards the engine gets power only when the key is in the START position.

First check is to see if the passengers side one has 12 V on it.
Secondly check to see if the small one gets power when the key is in the START position.
If no power to the small one when in the START position then the clutch interlock or ignition switch is suspect.
If power is at the small on in the START position then check the big terminal closer to the engine with the key in the START position.
If power is there when key is in the START position then the starter motor is shot.
If not then the starter solenoid on the started is bad.

Tx Kurt. Yup, she's toast. If the weather cooperates I'll have that fixed this weekend. I really, REALLY need to get out and drag this beast over some rocks. If I don't make that Class VI run that's coming up, it will be a sad day at Chez McFly

SHOTGUN!!!!