Baystate Jeepers

Decided to make a few upgrades to the heep this year and one of them high on the list is beadlocks. There seems to be a fair number of players from DIY to Allied, Trail Ready, looks like ProComp has a few. So whatcha running and how have they held up for you?

Allied for me. Heavy, but I like being able to bend them back. I did have to replace the bolts once (all rusted out) and repaint the rings, but scraping on rocks and then daily driving in the winter aren't the best combo.

Spyderlocks, forged aluminum wheels with a 1" thick lock ring. The recessed lock ring bolts are a nice feature.



Last year's rock rash cleaned up nicely with a flap disc.

Why do you think you need bead locks?

FWIW - I would seriously consider using one of the internal solutions rather than the clamp style.

JW

nostaw wrote:Why do you think you need bead locks?

FWIW - I would seriously consider using one of the internal solutions rather than the clamp style.

JW

I have blown beads at anything below 10psi and i would like to get a little better grip and traction without wiping out my tires...

FWIW I was also looking at this... Allied

One of these days I'll put the staun locks sitting on the shelf in the garage in my wheels.... just haven't gotten around to it...

-mike

mike check this thread out... http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/internat ... d-ons.html

These are DIY I bought used for short $$. Holding up well, other than rock rash, but I have touch up paint. They are very heavy, and on the highway feel like they are square, although that could be the bias ply IROKS.

Doug - Where did you find these?

Bought them used from Bill Mead.

I did Ballistic Fabrication DIY beads and love them. 35 buks a wheel is what it comes down to. When I had S.S. TSL I could run at 10lbs and see wicked tire deflection going over something. Never lost a bead. With the D.C. Crusher tires at 10 lbs. it looks and feels like road pressure. With the locks Ive ended up going to 3 lbs. to get good tire deflection. The quality of the weld will determine if and how much air they will loose. Im running a 35x12.5 on an 8 in. rim. What are you running as a wider rim will throw the bead easier. FjR68

I don't run beadlocks. Even at 3psi they seem to reseat themselves. As Dan Mick would say, must be my "balloon tiar's".

If I did get beadlocks, I would run the internal style as I've seen just as many inner as outer bead losses. They weigh less too.

Joliet Jake Blues wrote:

nostaw wrote:Why do you think you need bead locks?

FWIW - I would seriously consider using one of the internal solutions rather than the clamp style.

JW

I have blown beads at anything below 10psi and i would like to get a little better grip and traction without wiping out my tires...

What tire / wheel are you running?

When I first got my LTBs I lost a lot of beads... 34x10.50x15 tire on a 15x8 wheel... Changed to a 15x7 wheel and have no more bead issues and I find I get less stuff in there causing leaks as well. As tires break in they grab better at "higher" pressure. I don't find it necessary at this point to go less than 10-11 psi... I've been running the same tires for 6+ years, so they have lots of break in time.

If your tire has stiff sidewalls and isn't DD a couple seasons on them and they may not be fully broken in, if you're only out 3-4 runs per year.

Before sinking the $ into bead locks (and the hassles that go with them) I would think hard about just a narrower wheel and how much break in time your tires have.

JW

Jeff, I'm gonna go with the opposite opinion and say if you're gonna keep running the hard trails, hitting rock creek, etc, go ahead and get beadlocks. I've had multiple occasions where beadlocks were the only way my tire was staying on.

few reasons i didn't go with internals. first, i've heard of people having issues if they aren't installed perfectly. pinched tubes, leaks, etc. 2nd, the only place locally who could do it is lou's, whereas i've mounted my tires/beadlocks in my garage. and lastly, if you're on the trails and have a major tire issue and you're SOL you could also work on them there, single side beadlocks are that easy to work on.

most important thing is to get an inch-lb torque wrench, and check the bolts regularly for at least the first few trips. personally i've had beadlocks for almost 3 years now with zero issues, leaks, lost beads, lost bolts, etc, and i use my jeep as daily driver!