Baystate Jeepers

I was underneath the jeep yesterday and noticed dampness where the shaft enters the rear diff. I assume this means my seal is leaking and needs to be replaced. How difficult is this to do?

Depending on what axle you have ? If there is a crush sleeve or shim and bearing you would need to know that first. If its shim and bearing you disconnect and remove the DS. Then the retaining nut and remove the yolk . You can then remove the seal with any pick type tool,it already leaks so dont worry about it. Install new seal,yolk,and preferably a new nut and torque it to spec. With crush sleeve you have to go into the diff a pull the pinion to replace the crush sleeve with a new one. Some people will reuse the original and add a couple foot pounds to the spec. Although thats how pinion depth is set so Id recommend a new crush sleeve. It not that hard a job just do research online and find a step by step. Some one in your area might have the experience. FjR68

Thanks Frank
I have a dana 44. From what I have gathered there is no crush sleeve just shims. Looks like the most difficult job is getting the pinion nut off as I don't have air tools.

shouldn't be a problem, just set the e-brake, drop the driveshaft and use a long breaker bar to get it loose. Probably wouldn't hurt to soak it with PB Blaster a couple of times before you start. It shouldn't be tighter than the bolts on the front axles, and I can break those loose with my 24" breaker bar.

Where are you located?

DDewar53 wrote:shouldn't be a problem, just set the e-brake, drop the driveshaft and use a long breaker bar to get it loose. Probably wouldn't hurt to soak it with PB Blaster a couple of times before you start. It shouldn't be tighter than the bolts on the front axles, and I can break those loose with my 24" breaker bar.

Thanks Don

A guy at work is lending me his electric impact wrench. I was planning on giving that a shot. I also have a 24" breaker bar that I could try.

Little Napoleon wrote:Where are you located?

I am in Canton.

It's a piece of cake.

I usually mark the nut/yolk/shaft with a sharpie and put it back where it is after the seal change or if you have air tools, gun it down to 200-220 ft lbs after seal replacement (that spec is from Dana). Pinion bearing preload is set with shims. If you want to verify after seal replacement, it should take about 10 Inch/lbs to rotate the pinion.

Joe - That is without shafts inserted right?

I know that I don't live close to you, but if you find yourself around the Gardner area, I would be willing to help you out. Have all the tools and a heated garage.

Heated garage! I am jealous! Well at least the weather is getting warmer and I have a non-heated one. Thanks for the offer and all the good info.

Hopefully I will have some time to take a crack at it tomorrow. I have read up on it and borrowed the tools I don't have. I will let you guys know how I make out!

Got it done tonight. Wasn't too bad. Had to use the mark everything and put it back the same way method. Without a lift there was no room to get a torque wrench in there to tighten to the spec.

Next up shocks. They arrived today. Bolts have been soaking in PB Blaster for the past 3 days. Fingers are crossed!!!,