Baystate Jeepers

According to a couple write up's installing the AA SYE requires the use of Snap Ring Pliers. Just wondering if anyone could suggest which snap ring pliers from sears would work?

Also any other tips/tools I should make sure I have available?

Pretty much the biggest baddest ones you can find!!!!!!!!!! The snap ring that has to be removed then installed is pretty darn big (fits around the output shaft) and has a good amount of tension. Those convertible tip ones from Sears ain't gonna cut it.

Found this on youtube, video on how to install

It can be done without snap-ring pliers (ask me how I know) but I don't recommend it at all. Like John said, get the best ones you can afford.

I have a nice pair of Channellock Snap Ring Pliers, Model# 927


The Channellock? 8in. snap ring pliers converts from internal to external snap ring pliers with a flip of the red tab.Includes 5 pairs of color-coded interchangeable tips. Combines 10 tools in one!Internal / External:Internal / External.Tool Length:8.Tip Type:Straight .036, .047, .070 and (90?) .036, .047* External: 1/4in. to 2in.Internal: 3/8in. to 2in.* Heavy-duty return spring

Be patient when you separate the tail housing from the back half of the main case... There is an oil pump under the tail housing (on the output shaft) which sits against the back half of the main case. The problem is the pump may want to come off with the tail housing (factory sealant used to hold the tail housing to the back half of the main case may cause the two to stick together), but should come off separately because the pump has a feed line which comes from INSIDE the bottom of the back half of the main case, but the pump is OUTSIDE the main case and comes off first. If you pull the pump without getting the input line out (they just slip together) you can break the pump (ask how I know). The pump actually extends (slightly) into the main case through the opening covered by the tail housing.

If none of this is clear now it will be once one of several things happens:
1) Once you get everything apart (with or without the oil pump intact)
2) You find pictures showing this particular gotcha and how it fits together

The "good" news is that if you have to replace the oil pump it isn't that expensive (speaking from personal experience) -- I think it was ~$45 (6 years ago). However, it is a dealer only item, the dealer won't have it in stock (they did have it at a local warehouse and got it in 1-2 business days), and getting the idjits at the stealership to understand what you want will be frustrating (Transfer case oil pump? No, you mean engine oil pump...).

JW

If you do manage to bust the pump or the line don't worry.
I have a "parts" tcase that I can yank pieces out of if you get in trouble.

The craftsman snapring pliers Work fine, what I used.

Just thought of something else... Frequently (I don't know this is always the case, but I had this problem and I've heard others complain about it) the top bolt holding the two halves of the main t-case together is a reverse torx bolt... So you'll need the right size reverse torx socket to get it out.

I think I used the "standard" Craftsman snap ring pliers too...

JW