Baystate Jeepers

Wanted to get some opinions on lockers from y'all. I'm a bit concerned with breaking the factory lockers while running my comp tires, at this point in the build its the weak point. Here's what I'm thinking:

Swap the front to a Detroit locker. Can only run 32 spline shafts here because of axle tube sleeves. I also like the idea of not having to think about it.

Swap the rear to an ARB. Want to stay selectable here for steering purposes. Would upgrade to 35 spline shafts in the process.

Here's my problem with it. I'm definitely doing a one ton build, likely will be starting this winter. Definitely feels a bit like pissing money away. That also being said, I like to stay ahead of problems as much as I can...and I have a good feeling these factory lockers are a problem waiting to happen.

What are your opinions on how these lockers would effect resalability of the axles once the one tons are finished, in terms of value. I know for a lot of people's purposes the factory lockers are plenty capable, and they like the ease of use and installation of the electronic lockers. In their current configuration, I feel like my axles would pull some pretty good money, I'd like to think even as much as half of the cost of financing a one ton build.

Recommend NOT doing a Detriot in the front due to steering, unless you have hubs (hahaha)

asauer17 wrote:Recommend NOT doing a Detriot in the front due to steering, unless you have hubs (hahaha)

X2 here, especially on the street.

Put the ARB in the front and run the Detroit out back.

That being said, why not wait on running the stickies until after the tons are built? (kind of like asking the dog not to touch your dish of ice cream while you go to the bathroom)

DOUG wrote: (kind of like asking the dog not to touch your dish of ice cream while you go to the bathroom)

Had to quote that.

I would hold off on doing anything to your current axels and like Doug said if you are really worried just don't run the stickies. Putting money into an axel you plan on replacing in several months isn't worth it.

If you want to spend money though, through it my way I need to pay for a wedding.

The Detroit in the front shouldn't effect street driving, it only locks when torque is applied via the front driveshaft. Only "side effect" would be clicking sound.

As far as the steering goes, my understanding is your steering is most effected by the locked rear end pushing you through the turn. Let off the throttle for a second and the auto locker disengages, flip a switch and your rear comes unlocked.

ARB isn't feasible in the front anyway, the axle tube sleeves limit me to running no larger than a 32 spline shaft, ARB only makes a locker for the JK D44 that will accept a 35 spline.

Yes, rear locker effects the steering, but so does an automatic front locker. I'd do more research before deciding on that..

Do you mean a lunchbox locker or an automatic locker for the front? Many, many, many people say not to put an automatic locker in the front unless you have hubs that can unlock.

I'm talking an automatic locker. Considering the locking hub upgrade, this starts to get expensive. I just listed my 44's on NEOW, if I can get the asking price, I'll probably just move forward with some ready made 60's.

IMO, I don't think you're going to get $5500 for 44's. The NEOW guys swap in one tons for a fraction of that.

I recommend wheeling what you have and not worry about it until it breaks, then upgrade. Get some seat time and get some study time on field repairs. No need to go to one tons right off the bat. When you start wheeling in the land of one tons and stickies, you are expected to take care of your own junk.

ZAEDOCK wrote:IMO, you're not going to get $5500 for 44's. The NEOW guys swap in one tons for a fraction of that.

I recommend wheeling what you have and not worry about it until it breaks, then upgrade. Get some seat time and get some study time on field repairs. No need to go to one tons right off the bat. When you start wheeling in the land of one tons and stickies, you are expected to take care of your own junk.

$5500 is high, I wanted to discourage any low ball offers. Factory replacement 44's come in at about $6500 for a set, and they're not built anywhere close to what these are. Yeah, it is a bit high, but they're getting what they pay for. Plenty of guys out there that don't want to wheel tons because of the clearance and 44's fit nicely into their plans.

I'm fully capable of fixing my junk at least to the point where I can get it off the trail. Only thing I'm really lacking is knowing how to set up gears, other than that, I've taken it apart, put it back together, and carry to tools I'll need to do it when I wheel.

As dumb as it sounds, I've been trying to stay ahead of the damage with this build I'll be wheeling the stickies tomorrow at MB (you should come on up) which will give me a good idea of how things will hold up.

Has anybody broke a 44 in the field ,that we know of ? I know the JK 44 needs help in areas but for the kind of wheelin we do , has anyone broken any ? The only Detroit I know of thats recommended for the front without hubs , is the True Trac and thats a gear drive limited slip. Granted , it has the highest bias ratio of any limited slip on the market. You wont even know its there , but its not a locker to speak of. I had one at first and it was worth all the coin over an open diff. You should ride an auto locker on the street and feel it. You get used to the quirks in the rear. The front would be a handfull. FjR68

schwalby wrote: If you want to spend money though, through it my way I need to pay for a wedding.

Now that sounds much more like irresponsible spending than anything I'm planning. I would sooner buy you a week of lap dances

Frank wrote:Has anybody broke a 44 in the field ,that we know of ? I know the JK 44 needs help in areas but for the kind of wheelin we do , has anyone broken any ? The only Detroit I know of thats recommended for the front without hubs , is the True Trac and thats a gear drive limited slip. Granted , it has the highest bias ratio of any limited slip on the market. You wont even know its there , but its not a locker to speak of. I had one at first and it was worth all the coin over an open diff. You should ride an auto locker on the street and feel it. You get used to the quirks in the rear. The front would be a handfull. FjR68

I'm not worried about my 44's on my 35's. I'd even run a radial M/T 40" tire without thinking too much about it. These stickies are a completely different ball game. Guess I'll head out tomorrow and find the weak point.

ArticRubi wrote:As dumb as it sounds, I've been trying to stay ahead of the damage with this build I'll be wheeling the stickies tomorrow at MB (you should come on up) which will give me a good idea of how things will hold up.

Thanks for the offer, but MB isn't really worth making the drive out as it's pretty short and not very difficult (I've been there a million times). Besides, I have plenty of yard work and stuff. I'm lending my trailer to a buddy and might even work on the buggy too. Have fun though - and remember the turn around spot, especially leading a new group who will probably return. I'll probably head over someday in my kid's XJ to try it out. I'll post it up here.

Frank wrote:Has anybody broke a 44 in the field ,that we know of ?

Frank wrote:The only Detroit I know of thats recommended for the front without hubs , is the True Trac and thats a gear drive limited slip. Granted , it has the highest bias ratio of any limited slip on the market. You wont even know its there , but its not a locker to speak of. I had one at first and it was worth all the coin over an open diff. You should ride an auto locker on the street and feel it. You get used to the quirks in the rear. The front would be a handfull. FjR68

I run a Lockright in the front (yep, still run it) and my Jeep turns fine. I run drive slugs too, not hubs (broke those ). I get some bark from the rear due to the spool.

Or you could just run 33's, locked f&r and make things look easy, like I do... Just saying

I am almost certain you will kill the stock lockers with the stickies.

ArticRubi wrote:Factory replacement 44's come in at about $6500 for a set,

Remeber factory stuff is always a lot more expensive. You need to compare it to after market axles that are of the same or better quality. I know for $6K I can put true D44s with ARB lockers and alloy shafts in a TJ.