Baystate Jeepers

Anyone see the July JP magazine article on a home made OBA system? The one that uses grease instead of oil? I (finally) decided to do an OBA conversion and and now I see this. Any opinions on greased vs oiled systems? I was ready to start buying parts (for an oiled system). Until I read this article, I didn't even know there was a choice

Whatever you decide, just ride next to me so I don't need it.

Saw the article too.
The grease is too much work for me.
I just pull the plug on the compressor now and then and squirt in some Duralube spray.
FYI cheap source of "special" parts for a conversion is the HF pancake compressor when there's the coupin' for $39.95

johnsxj wrote: I just pull the plug on the compressor now and then and squirt in some Duralube spray.
FYI cheap source of "special" parts for a conversion is the HF pancake compressor when there's the coupin' for $39.95

NOICE!!

Looks like some of these systems are over-engineered. I mean, since I have the factory AC (and switch and wiring), do I really need relays? That seems redundant

The pressure switch to cut / engage the compressor at preset pressures, I could wire that in series with the factory harness, right?

And reading those posts by James Tree (http://www.baystatejeepers.com/forum/vi ... OBA#p19988), if I use my factory AC aluminum and rubber hose, I'll save a few more pesos by not springing for a custom made, high-temp hose

I'd like to get this done, and I have some time off before RC I'm gonna start piecing stuff together

I ended up going with an oiler system for my setup because I killed a sanden without it. If you want to stop by and take a look I certainly learned the hard way what not to do!

sounds great! Also like to see what you did for a manifold, and..... oh hell I have lots of questions

I've killed one Sanden because I forgot to oil it. But now I pull the body plug and squirt some oil in as part of routine maintenance.
For the outlet hose, I used the stock A/C line. Cut it off near the fire wall and used a barb fitting.
It's just as easy to wire up a new switch on the dash. Easier to tell when it's on or off that way. And yes, a 110v cutoff switch will work on 12v.
For a manifold, a bunch of "T" fittings will work just fine.
My air filter is a old school aftermarket valve cover breather that's slid on the cut off inlet line.
The check valve is only needed if you're running an air tank.
I'll take some pics my set up and post them up.

Here's a couple pics Carl!



Right to left... stock hose from AC pump, water seperator, check valve, 3/8" tee fittings 1st branch has gauge and cut off switch 2nd has line chuck and line to rear hose wheel, elbow with dead man valve to front bumpah air tank.


Stock line off AC pump and my cheapie air filter.

Still haven't put in a safety relief valve but my system has enough leaks in the tank or the hose will blow off the manifold first.
Just remember the bigger the fittings and line you use, the easier the air can flow.

Why not go with a york setup?

My problem was space under the hood and cost, but lots of people love yorks

Sanden pumps are a dime a dozen in the salvage yards, push just a little less air than a York, and are stupid simple to mount on a Jeep 4.0

johnsxj wrote:Sanden pumps are a dime a dozen in the salvage yards, push just a little less air than a York, and are stupid simple to mount on a Jeep 4.0

And if the factory was good enough to mount it for you............

John those pics are money!! REALLY like the multiple T's. Seems better than trying to jam parts on a small manifold. And you're right, a simple switch on the dash is NBD and like you say, easier to tell if it's powered. I'm hitting the hahdware stores this weekend, collecting parts. Can't wait to light this candle. And I'll prolly ditch the tank. Haven't decided for sure, but I'm not seeing the need

Even a small tank is awesome. Gives you the burst for air tools, seating beads, and let's the compressor do something worthwhile while you change between tires.

Like Ryan pointed out, a tank can be handy at times.
I wish HF would run a special on the other cheapie compressor that uses the tube tank. It would be easier to mount up in a Jeep.
Even if you don't run a tank now, it's easy enough to add one later!

I got this tank from 4WD.com $50
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Hitches-Hitch-P ... 2fB99210-2

Comes with a gauge and a bunch of fittings to plumb it it. Nice mounting brackets on it too.
Numerous bungs it it for lines, disconnects, gauge, etc. Mounted mine on the drives rear fender well just inside the tub.