Baystate Jeepers

I was on FB, complaining about having to do my TJ rear brakes this weekend (I hateeeee doing drum brakes, especially when it's cold. But not real happy when it's warm, either ) and Johnny C says “HEY! Kwicherbichin and do a disc brake conversion, dumbazz.”
OK, not an exact quote, but you get the idea

So I got to thinking….. yeah…. that’s a good idea. I hit forums and did some googling, and came up with some questions / ideas to bounce off my (smarter than me) peeps

I have a spare set of axles (ty Doug) and I was going to start by replacing the bearings and seals, and if they need it, put on a retainer plate designed for disc brakes. But I’m thinking they were prolly off a Rubi, so they may have the correct plate. Either way, my idea is to have a complete set of rebuilt and ready to run axles I can throw in, when the time comes

Next up, find backing plates from a ZJ (93 – 98 GC, me thinks) but will those fit my 44, or does it matter what kind of axle is under the GC? It seemed like they’re the same for a 35 or a 44, but I don’t know

The calipers, I was going to maybe scrounge a set from a bone yard and use them as collateral for rebuilts. Rotors, I’d buy new. And new hardware. And check my wheel studs, see if they’re going to be long enough. And a mounting tab needs to be welded to the axle, for the hard brake line to a flex line, is that something I can buy, or does it have to be chiseled off a donor axle?

I’ve seen complete kits (even the big $$ kits) don’t have new proportioning valves, but some write ups talk about replacing that. What do you think? And finally, do you think I’m better off getting a complete kit (for about $500, delivered) or in your opinion, is it worth it to piecemeal it? A complete kit with shiny new parts is pretty appealing

I'm not sure how it would work on a TJ D44... I swapped the drums on my XJ's C8.25 for disc brakes off a mid '90s ZJ D35. Wasn't too expensive and worked out pretty well. I do not know what vehicles would would work for you.

Mid 90's ZJs are pretty common at pick-n-pull places, so you can probably get the parts you want fairly easily if you go this route. I think I paid something like $40 for the backing plates, calipers, and brackets I needed. You could try this route and if it doesn't fit, you won't be hurting too much.

If you buy a kit make sure they include some provision for the e-brake, since you need that for inspection.

JW

I've never been a fan of piece meal rear disk convertions. I think if you want better braking on a rear drum TJ, upgrade to '87-'90 Waggy 44 drums. They're bigger and stop 600 lbs of Claws very well.

Why not look for a TJ in a boneyard that has disc brakes? Rubicons are not the only TJ that came with rear disc brakes, and you can get everything you need...IE: parking brake stuff.
Some time spent on the phone to local yards may yield you a good deal.

Decided to go with one donor, and get what I need. Hopefully picking up a D44 this weekend, with everything I need. Stay tuned.....

Carl McFly wrote:Decided to go with one donor, and get what I need. Hopefully picking up a D44 this weekend, with everything I need. Stay tuned.....

Too bad you bought my axles, now you'll have two sets of spares.

that's true..... unless I got a good deal on a diff, because it had no axles

Carl McFly wrote:that's true..... unless I got a good deal on a diff, because it had no axles

My conversion was under 350.00 and it came with everything. Then I had to decide , Chevy or Caddy calipers. 77.00 more dollars and done ! The Co. Is TSM Manufacturing , they are in all the magazines toward the back page ads. FjR68

Frank wrote:My conversion was under 350.00 and it came with everything. Then I had to decide , Chevy or Caddy calipers. 77.00 more dollars and done ! The Co. Is TSM Manufacturing , they are in all the magazines toward the back page ads. FjR68

hmmmmm................... interestinggggg...... that's definitely on my Plan B list

IF the diff is what it's supposed to be (complete with e-brake HW and cables, etc) then I'll be hauling it back to Mehfuh tonight. The diff price is in the double digits but I'm still looking at replacing the calipers (+$56 each), turning or replacing rotors ($25 each, or less) and new hoses (+$20 each), plus misc hardware.... I'll probably be into this for around $250. Not bad, if I get to drive away with better brakes AND a functional e-brake

UPDATE - picked up the diff and it's early in the game and we all know chit happens..... but the rear diff I scored looks like a goldmine. Rotors look real beefy with no gouges, complete e-brake asmy is there, INCLUDING the complete cable assmys, back to the cable wye. Also has the proportioning valve and complete brake lines, wheel to wheel. Not sure if I need them, but I took them off

Next up, have the rotors turned, trade in the junk calipers for rebuilts, new brake pads (caliper and e-brake) and new e-brake HW / springs. My plan is to document this as much as I can, with pictures. Already started that with the dis-assembly, because during re-assembly, those pics are money

That wouldn't be a proportioning valve on the axle, just a splitter block. The proportioning valve is up near the master cylinder.

Modeler wrote:That wouldn't be a proportioning valve on the axle, just a splitter block. The proportioning valve is up near the master cylinder.

after I wrote that, I realized my mistake. Then I saw something shiny and I was like............

Shiny is always exciting ! FjR68

Carl McFly wrote:that's true..... unless I got a good deal on a diff, because it had no axles

let me know if you don't want the tube when your done...