Baystate Jeepers

I got a couple questions. In stalling a fuel cell in the bed,removed the tank for the axle clearance. It has the sending unit with the supply and return nipples. There are three tapped fittings also. He had 3 ft. of hose with a filter attached to his roll bar for the vent. Not a vented cap. If I use the fitting to run to the throttle body canister purge nipple , I would still have to have a second line back to the tank ? I thought about finding a charcoal canister ,hooking both lines from the tank and a suction line to the canister purge. Should that do it ? Is there an easier way ?? I really didnt want to vent to the atmosphere. The next question is. I have a T W driveshaft that is 14 3/8th long. I now need 24 1/2. Would you have this lengthened or a new one made. There is absolutely no tube on this shaft, just CV , slip yolk , and universal joint. Would you have T W or a local shaft shop do the work. Thanks FjR68

Nobody ?

Sorry Frank...been busy!!!!

Tank - I think you could run the C-canister as described. I will say that most of the buggies I have seen with cells run open vents with an inline check valve. I plan to use either a YJ or TJ plastic tank and evap crap on my buggy.

Driveshaft - buy new. IMO, it will cost more to cut(& clean) /add lengthened material/and rebalance than to just start with a solid piece of tube on a new yolk/DC end.

Re tubing the shaft isn't very expensive, maybe $100. Try Brookline Machine or send it back to TW

Thanks Guys . A guy on N.E. said to get a roll over valve and vent that way. I guess it wont allow vapor to escape but it can draw in ? If I understand correctly. Thats what your saying , a one way type valve ? Thanks , One less thing on the Tadoo list. Body is ready to go on the chassis , Finally ! FjR68

Frank. There is great writeuo on pirate4x4 in the "tech" section. It is a rather elaborate setup.....although ends up very safe in the end.

Wholly crap Frank you must have picked up that cell from me what 3 years ago? Most buggies just rout the vent 3 sides & down with a manual shut off valve (mainly due to the bladder type cells) and a filter so that as the tank empties and sucks air in, the air gets filtered and eliminates particles getting into the tank.

FRANK FOR WHAT ITS WORTH, I WORK FOR A DRIVELINE SHOP ( FLEETPRIDE INC ) IN WORCESTER MA. WE COULD GET THAT SHAFT DONE FOR YOU.

Im sure the prices would be different, how much to shorten a shaft & how much to lengthen a shaft?

I had fleetpride shorten an XJ front shaft for the back of my YJ about 10 years ago. It came to $60.00. I'm sure it's more now. Lengthening requires cutting off both ends, which obviously adds labor and material, so that would be more.

i'll work up the price both wayson friday and report back, but lenghting will be more.

I have a Fleetpride here in Hartford. No anyone down here ? Tom woods said its easier to make a new one as there is no tube to work with and it would require new components anyway. 299.00 I hate to start jerking around now as TW made a shaft that never gave me any issues, just not working for 11 months has its drawbacks. Thanks for the help and open to suggestions. FjR68

I agree ,stay with what works, but if want to entertain the idea of retubing your shaft talk to Manny in the Hartford store.
Labor should be around $125 and tubing from $6.00 to $12.00 a foot.
good luck

Thankyou