Baystate Jeepers

Here I am, yet again, needing to do a ujoint on my rubi. When will it end?!?! I have to replace the one on the drivers side in the axle shaft. I was just wondering since I've never done ujoints anywhere besides the driveshafts, if I were to pull the axle shaft do I need to drain the diff first? I just don't want fluid to spew if I pull it. Probably a dumb question but I'm kind of a novice when it comes to this stuff. I just wanna pull the shaft out so I can replace the ujoint a little easier. Thanks a bunch!

Also,

long story short, I broke a bolt inside the yoke at the front diff (one of the 8mm ones that holds the ujoint at the end of the drive shaft in there). I'm not sure if I'm going to have any luck getting it out. Ideas? I might be able to since a little nub of it is exposed, but I can't count on that. I won't know until later tomorrow, but I'd love to put my drive shaft back in before we get any major snow.

Thanks again!

you should not need to drain the fluid to pull the shafts but you will need a (if memory servers) 36mm or so socket to be able to pull the unit bearing.

there are also things called 'ez outs' that you can use to drill out / extract a broken bolt... or if you can weld simply tack a short piece onto the remainder of the bolt to use pliers to remove the remiander. good luck!

I would just jack up the side you're working on a couple of inches to keep the fluid inside the diff.
Find a small nut that fits over that nub and weld them together then put a socket over the nut to extract it.

The same thing happend to me about an hour before a BSJ run. It was tough as the broken bolt is very small but I was able to drill a small hole off center on the broken bolt then used a punch and hammer to slowly unscrew the broken bolt. I had mine out the week before that so I new the bolt would be easy to remove. Once i got it backed out enough I was able to grab it with a pair of needlenose pliers. If you dont think yours will come out that easy I would try an "easy out" like "Mr. Blues" mentioned

Thanks for the info! I'm gonna get crackin on this in a few hours. I'm sure I'll be back with more questions xD

RLVRSK wrote:Here I am, yet again, needing to do a ujoint on my rubi. When will it end?!?!

RLVRSK wrote: I was just wondering since I've never done ujoints anywhere besides the driveshafts, if I were to pull the axle shaft do I need to drain the diff first? I just don't want fluid to spew if I pull it. Probably a dumb question but I'm kind of a novice when it comes to this stuff. I just wanna pull the shaft out so I can replace the ujoint a little easier. Thanks a bunch!

Don't worry about the fluid. The seal on the inside is higher than the fluid level in the diff.

When you reassemble, make sure to use anti-sieze on the unit bearing contact surfaces for easier future maintenance or trail repairs.

RLVRSK wrote:Also, long story short, I broke a bolt inside the yoke at the front diff (one of the 8mm ones that holds the ujoint at the end of the drive shaft in there). I'm not sure if I'm going to have any luck getting it out. Ideas? I might be able to since a little nub of it is exposed, but I can't count on that. I won't know until later tomorrow, but I'd love to put my drive shaft back in before we get any major snow.

Thanks again!

I would drill and extract. It shouldn't be too bad.

HELP!

I hate 12 point bolts. I hate them so bad. They have to be one of the worst and most pointless things in the world. ALL THEY DO IS SHEAR.

With that out of the way, I need to remove the 3 bolts on the back of the hub. They're 12 point bolts. Even if I use a 12 point socket, it looks like they're just going to get stripped. Are they some kind of low profile 12 point bolt or something? I mean the points are tiny! They look smaller than usual... I also haven't removed them before so they sure as hell are on there tight. Ideas so I don't strip them? (Obviously using a 12 point socket).

Use lots of penetrating fluid where the bolts poke through the hub. The heads are supposed to be 12pt 13mm, but a 12pt 1/2" tapped on with a hammer will give a tighter fit. When the bolts break free, loosen them half a turn then in a little back out another 1/2-3/4 of a turn etc.. doing so helps to clear the rust off the end of the bolts preventing possible messing of the threads or worse more dreaded snapping!!!!!

I gave up. It's too darn cold in the driveway to work on this tonight, and I have to drive to northern NH tomorrow night. Just gonna have it towed to a garage. They probably won't bend me over the hood of it too much...

Thanks for all the help everybody. If only it was summer...

A 1/2" 12 pt tapped on like John said is the way to go. I've never needed anything more than a breaker bar to loosen them.

If you do send it to a shop, just put it back together to save the $ of a tow. I've driven with bad u-joints. IMO, it will be OK as long as it's not under power.