TJ Engine Misfire
Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 10:31 pm
Wow, bad week for BigBird. 2000 TJ, 4.0. No engine mods other than a K&N filter. Think she has about 75K miles.
Monday on way to work, she started running rough. Check engine light and then started stalling and really knocking by the time I left work, so towed her to AutoZone. Computer said cyl #1 misfire. Got home and ripped her apart and the #1 plug was missing the electrode. Like gone, snapped off at the base. All of them were sorta brown, but the rest not eroded (25K miles and 6 years on the plugs Bosch Platinum plugs). Replaced all plugs tonight and didnt improve.
Will fire up and run smooth for 15 seconds, then start bucking. Even will run a bit (sometimes stalling), and then smooth out for another 10 seconds, then back to rough... pulled the coils rail and checked all the connections, more di-elec grease and reconnect. Nothing better.
Factory service manual doesn't really list any way to test the coil rail, but she is a $130 non returnable part at AutoZone. Hate to be wrong.
Also doesn't list a way to test the crank position sensor (those connectors also look OK).
There is of course the chance than a cylinder problem (stuck valve, etc) led to the bad plug and code, but before I tear the head off and really dig deep, I figured I would consult the oracles...
Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks all.
-Keith
Monday on way to work, she started running rough. Check engine light and then started stalling and really knocking by the time I left work, so towed her to AutoZone. Computer said cyl #1 misfire. Got home and ripped her apart and the #1 plug was missing the electrode. Like gone, snapped off at the base. All of them were sorta brown, but the rest not eroded (25K miles and 6 years on the plugs Bosch Platinum plugs). Replaced all plugs tonight and didnt improve.
Will fire up and run smooth for 15 seconds, then start bucking. Even will run a bit (sometimes stalling), and then smooth out for another 10 seconds, then back to rough... pulled the coils rail and checked all the connections, more di-elec grease and reconnect. Nothing better.
Factory service manual doesn't really list any way to test the coil rail, but she is a $130 non returnable part at AutoZone. Hate to be wrong.
Also doesn't list a way to test the crank position sensor (those connectors also look OK).
There is of course the chance than a cylinder problem (stuck valve, etc) led to the bad plug and code, but before I tear the head off and really dig deep, I figured I would consult the oracles...
Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks all.
-Keith