Baystate Jeepers

I decided to take video of my u-joint... I've been driving it one roads like this for a while, however, I do not have a replacement part.. yet.

my questions..
Has anyone has this issue with their right one (passenger side) being loose and not the other?

Really want to make the next trail run... do you think it would make it?!!

[youtube][/youtube]

They usually don't wear out at exactly the same time, but are usually close to each other.

You ought to get that fixed sooner rather than later. Don't need to rush out today, but I wouldn't wait till the fall...
You don't want to let it get too far gone and the joint can fail further make it go from a $25 part to several hundreds of dollars or worse.

I'd highly recommend you replace both at the same time. Might as well as long as the wrench's are turning.

i would fix it right away before it breakes and ovals out the ears. it a preety easy peice to replace

If you have time next week my garage is available, I always can find time to wrench!

Kurt - Should she apply some PB Blaster on the three bold holding the wheel bearing/u-joint a day before the work would be done? If it was me, I would but don't want to give bad advice.

It looks like things haven't been taken apart in quite a while. Giving the bearing bolts, and even the u-joint caps a couple shot of penetrating fluid wouldn't hurt. Just be careful not to get any on the brake rotors and especially the brake pads!

johnsxj wrote:It looks like things haven't been taken apart in quite a while. Giving the bearing bolts, and even the u-joint caps a couple shot of penetrating fluid wouldn't hurt. Just be careful not to get any on the brake rotors and especially the brake pads!

X2

Yup - some PB a day or so before would certainly help

asauer17 wrote:Really want to make the next trail run... do you think it would make it?!!

Definitely fix your junk! Nothing is worse than breaking something you know is bad and holding up the group on the trail.
Especially for a 30-40 minute repair.

PM me your schedule.. You def want to get that fixed.

Ahh!! I haven't driven it for atleast 2 weeks.. (thank goodness for having 2 cars!)

Any recommendations on u-joints? ie: $35 vs $60 u-joint... hope there isn't a major difference!

asauer17 wrote:Ahh!! I haven't driven it for atleast 2 weeks.. (thank goodness for having 2 cars!)

Any recommendations on u-joints? ie: $35 vs $60 u-joint... hope there isn't a major difference!

A factory Spicer 760-X ujoint is the best deal going. $25-$30 and they'll hold up for a long time. I'm still running the 760's I had at Moab and that's with turning 300 lbs of tires.

Lou at Elias 4WD center can hook you up.

FYI... according to Lou Spicer is no longer making greasable 760-X ujoints

Little Napoleon wrote:FYI... according to Lou Spicer is no longer making greasable 760-X ujoints

That's OK! Non greasies are stronger (IMO) and they have some kinda double seal thingy that "clicks" when you put the cap on. I always get non-serv joints.

ZAEDOCK wrote:

Little Napoleon wrote:FYI... according to Lou Spicer is no longer making greasable 760-X ujoints

That's OK! Non greasies are stronger (IMO) and they have some kinda double seal thingy that "clicks" when you put the cap on. I always get non-serv joints.

I guess that is the same response that Lou got from Spicer... they are stronger...

If you can't make it to Lou's, here are some good deals on 760's:

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p762_5_ ... _join.html

http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/produ ... -760X.html

I've bought from Northern Drivetrain before and had good experiences. Folks here like Denny's too.

Joe - Last time I was at Lou's he mentioned that I should be using full retainer clips and not use the ones that come with the u-joints. Do you happen to have suggests for full retainer clips?