Baystate Jeepers

The obvious point here is that for trails spring over is far superior, but I do a lot of driving on the road. So, if I go spring over, I can get rid of those huge shackles and probably stay around the same height. The question is, will the drivability suffer any?

For a couple hundred bucks for parts I can stay sprung under and simply move all the stuff up out of harms way.

Comments please!

Curtis

My Scrambler is SOA with a front shackle reversal. Rides better than the Rubicon on the street.

What are you running for springs now? CJ or YJ width in the front?

84cj wrote:The obvious point here is that for trails spring over is far superior

There are pro's and con's to both - but I defintely wouldn't consider SOA superior to SUA. In some ways, it's inferior and opens up new issues that SUA doesn't have. Also, spring technology and metallurgy have come a long way. I contemplated going SOA years ago, but with over 15" of wheel travel from full stuff to full droop (better than some coil suspensions!), I have no need. She climbs great and there is no need for any type of anti-wrap bar for the rear axle.

A SOA swap will definitely ride better on the street due to the flatter spring used, but that's OK with me.

84cj wrote:So, if I go spring over, I can get rid of those huge shackles and probably stay around the same height. The question is, will the drivability suffer any?

A shackle reversal is a separate entity from a SOA swap. IIRC, Kurt is SOA and still runs his shackles in the front.
The shackles in the front will climb better than a shackle reversal. This is due to the way the axle unloads.


Having seen your CJ off road, I would work on making the existing springs work better. Loosen up the clamps and use high clearance u-bolt plates (I think you already did).

Having seen your CJ off road, I would work on making the existing springs work better. Loosen up the clamps and use high clearance u-bolt plates (I think you already did).

I did in the front, I think I will do the same for the rear and call it a day.

Curtis

Joe pretty much touched on all points. Big one being a anti roll link both frt. and rear. Every thing Ive read about leaf springs is that once you go 4" or more , you loose articulation due to making the spring stiffer for the lift. Brand is also a choice to hassle over. I used Black Diamond and people are so surprised as to how easily she rocks just by pushing her side ways or standing on the side bars. The add said on the soft side and they weren't lying . You do have to respect that on the street. I run no sway bars . You already have the bigger Cj springs . When your ready , use the wider rear springs on the front and get another set for the rear. You will pick up stability that way for sure. With my shackle reverse , I use .5" over stock in the front and 2" over in the rear. Hope that helps Curtis. FjR68

If you're willing to do a little fabbing / adjusting of spring locations you could look at asymmetric leafs like the XJ uses for SOA (stock, from the factory) in the back. The asymmetric design works to reduce the axle wrap so you don't need to add separate anti-wrap bars, but you need to have the space for the longer springs. You may be able to get away with picking stock XJ springs (relatively inexpensive / readily available) for the CJ, which is lighter in the back.

JW

Jon : Most of the rear Cj leafs have the offset pin. Well the two types Ive used did . FjR68