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Winch Install

Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 12:50 pm
by del_TJ
Hey Guys - I have some wire gauge questions. I just ordered a Superwinch Talon winch :twisted: ... and I'm trying to figure out how to wire in a power interrupt switch possibly with a 750 amp fuse (just in case!!!).

I've read that 2 gauge wire is plenty for wiring a solenoid under the hood, but what about the power cables? Can I use 2 gauge to wire up this switch and 750 amp fuse, or should I be using heavier wire? I ask b/c the fuse holder I'm looking at is only rated for 2 gauge wire, but the switch is a beast with 1/2" terminals and can go heavier for sure.

This heavy duty marine switch I got looks like it'll fit right on the firewall above the heater core plumbing.
BLUE SEA 3000 BATTERY SWITCH HD


Here's the fuse I'm looking at.
https://www.vtewarehouse.com/content/el ... anb753.php

Tony

Re: Winch Install

Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 1:31 pm
by Baseshakers
I'm going to use 2 gauge and an extra solenoid. This way the power cables are only hot when I need them, but I can turn them on from the cab rather than open the hood. You should be able to keep the total length similar to what comes with the winch, so I would say 2 gauge is good. You can always go thicker, but it probably isn't necessary.

Re: Winch Install

Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 6:34 pm
by del_TJ
Thanks, I don't think the power cables will really end up any longer so sticking to 2 gauge or whatever the winch comes with should be fine. I didn't understand that the 750A fuse holder I was looking at is rated for 2/0 gauge which is double zero (00), not 2 gauge. It's my first winch so I'm still learning new Jeep stuff :)

Re: Winch Install

Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:51 pm
by ZAEDOCK
I could see the desire for a switch, but a fuse isn't really needed.

Re: Winch Install

Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2011 10:00 pm
by Frank
I put in a key operated disconnect , but I put it in the ground side of the power cables. Less resistance than having it inline. FjR68

Re: Winch Install

Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:03 am
by del_TJ
ZAEDOCK wrote:I could see the desire for a switch, but a fuse isn't really needed.
Okay, thanks for the advice. I'll do the switch but no fuse, but I'll know who to BLAME if my heep catches fire on the trail while winching :mrgreen:

Re: Winch Install

Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 10:01 am
by ZAEDOCK
del_TJ wrote:
ZAEDOCK wrote:I could see the desire for a switch, but a fuse isn't really needed.
Okay, thanks for the advice. I'll do the switch but no fuse, but I'll know who to BLAME if my heep catches fire on the trail while winching :mrgreen:

If a winch required a fuse or even a disconnect switch, then the major winch manufacturers would include them. Consider that when you add components to the circuit, you are adding possible areas for corrosion and connectivity issues. I clean the contacts on the winch from the solenoid several times a year. The solenoid itself is mounted under the hood in it's plastic case and the plug for the controller is mounted to the front grill. I've never had any cable issues even with long pulls. The most issues I have seen with others winches, have been from lack of maintenance.

Regarding the installation of the disconnect, for true disconnect safety (which is the point of the switch), it should be mounted on the positive side as close to the battery as possible.

Re: Winch Install

Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2011 2:08 pm
by nostaw
2x what Joe said.... I'd avoid trying to put anything inline with the winch. You can make things a lot worse if you install something and it fries.

I'd put the disconnect on the power to the switching relays and call it good... Can do that with relatively inexpensive / smaller wire gauges.

JW