Baystate Jeepers

Problems:

Starting:
so my jeep has been taking forever to start... ill sit their for a good 5 or 6 seconds of turning the engine over and it will finally start sputtering and start up (some days worse than others) some days it will start up no problem especially if the engines warm... and it wont idle right it will sit their and idle down for a little while and then idle up about 500 more rpms then idle back down every 5 seconds... so I'm thinking that the idle could be the TPS going and the starting taking forever could be the CPS (crank position sensor) any thoughts?

also sometimes ill turn the key and just hear (click) then i do it over and over more (click click click click) then i just hold it down for like 5 seconds (my jeep likes that number for some reason) and the starter will kick in... wtf is that? lol i think it might have a loose wire or something maybe a bad ground

Clutch:
ya its starting to get bad to the point where i just put a little pressure on the pedal and it will let me shift, so i was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for clutch kits (throwout bearing, pressure plate, pilot bearing, clutch disc)
also I'm pretty set on getting the NOVAK Tcase shifter when everything comes down... also nutserts are probably going to break and wrenches are going to go flying anyone know what i should do if i break them and where to get new ones...

thanks! hope to see you all at the upcoming meeting

Answers/Fixes:

Starting:
Buy a new fuel pump as the old one is wearing out also cleaned off the Throttle body and it is idling better (SeaFoam Worked good but taking it apart worked better)

Fuel Pump Assy - (Electric In-Tank Type) - Actual MFG OEM wrote:http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 38+2038036

Clutch:
Buy a clutch kit Thowout bearing is blown and a finger is broken on pressure plate

Clutch Set - New wrote:http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 38+2038036

wesley4x4 wrote:Clutch:
ya its starting to get bad to the point where i just put a little pressure on the pedal and it will let me shift, so i was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for clutch kits (throwout bearing, pressure plate, pilot bearing, clutch disc)
also I'm pretty set on getting the NOVAK Tcase shifter when everything comes down... also nutserts are probably going to break and wrenches are going to go flying anyone know what i should do if i break them and where to get new ones...

http://www.4x4xplor.com/clutch.html ... it's on a 97, so likely pretty close to yours.

call up advance auto / whatever's close and just get a stock replacement. $125. budget longer than you think it will take, and definitely have either a tranny jack, or jack with tranny adapter. It'll make things a lot easier. biggest PITA are the bolts way up on top of the bellhousing.

I just went with novak too. comes with all the mounting hardware. you can get rid of the stock nutserts (if im thinking about the ones you are - mounted to the tub, you get at them from under the carpet.).

When was the last tune up?
Plugs/wires/cap/rotor/air and fuel filters/etc.

Remove and clean the TB.

Remove and clean the IAC

Check for vacuum leaks - PCV and brake booster connections, etc.

Check the voltage at the battery when it's running - 13.8Vdc +/- a bit is ideal.

Remove the wires to the starter - clean and reconnect.


Beck Arnley stock replacement clutch kits are OK. Replace everything while it's apart.


Nutserts suck. Make your own and weld them in.

Long cranking is usually due to a back check valve in the fuel pump assembly.
Try turning the key to RUN, wait a few seconds, turn the key off.
Repeat.
Now try to start it.
If it starts quicker then the check valve in the fuel regulator is probably going.

Wandering engine RPM's at idle are likely a stick IAC as Joe indicated.

Click-click is either a bad starter or corroded/poor battery cable connections to either the battery, the block or the starter.

It's those new headlights stealing all the juice from the engine...

JW

ZAEDOCK wrote:When was the last tune up?
Plugs/wires/cap/rotor/air and fuel filters/etc.

Remove and clean the TB.

Remove and clean the IAC

Check for vacuum leaks - PCV and brake booster connections, etc.

Check the voltage at the battery when it's running - 13.8Vdc +/- a bit is ideal.

Remove the wires to the starter - clean and reconnect.


Beck Arnley stock replacement clutch kits are OK. Replace everything while it's apart.


Nutserts suck. Make your own and weld them in.

tuneup was done at 100,000 ill take apart and clean everything...

battery def needs to be switched, ill grab a blemished deep cycle for 50

and ill clean all the connections to do with the starter after class tomorrow THANKS JOE!

Kurt wrote:Long cranking is usually due to a back check valve in the fuel pump assembly.
Try turning the key to RUN, wait a few seconds, turn the key off.
Repeat.
Now try to start it.
If it starts quicker then the check valve in the fuel regulator is probably going.

Wandering engine RPM's at idle are likely a stick IAC as Joe indicated.

Click-click is either a bad starter or corroded/poor battery cable connections to either the battery, the block or the starter.

UGH!!! i just put 800 into it now i have to replace a 200-300 doller part just because a stupid little ball... cant i just install an inline check valve? lol

thanks for the help kurt

nostaw wrote:It's those new headlights stealing all the juice from the engine...

JW

ya maybe and that power robing electric fan, when i switch it on high the jeep idles down the alternator cherps a little bit and my lights dull for a second lol its real nice

"wesley4x4UGH!!! i just put 800 into it now i have to replace a 200-300 doller part just because a stupid little ball... cant i just install an inline check valve? lol

Not 200-300. Just $77.79 from RockAuto.com if it's really a faulty filter-regulator.

You need to drop the fuel tank to replace it...

Don't get a deep cycle battery... Stick with a starting battery and it will hold up better.

JW

Kurt wrote:

"wesley4x4UGH!!! i just put 800 into it now i have to replace a 200-300 doller part just because a stupid little ball... cant i just install an inline check valve? lol

Not 200-300. Just $77.79 from RockAuto.com if it's really a faulty filter-regulator.

You need to drop the fuel tank to replace it...

on Friday im bringing it into shop so ill do a fuel pressure test someone told me id have to replace the whole fuel pump im like really? thats so dumb

Look at your fuel rail on the engine. If there's two lines on it, you can go with what Kurt is showing. If there's one line on the rail, the regulator is in the fuel pump/sender assy. If cycling the key 2-3 times makes it start easier, just go with it and it'll cost you zip!

it only has one line on the fuel rail and i checked the fuel pressure today at shop and it was
on position =45~ then dropping drasticly
Running= 47~ shifting from around 46-48~
off= 46-0 over 1 minute

So heres my questiong... im going to buy a fuel pump and it costs me around 200-250 so how do i find out what gallon tank i have the 15 or 19 i know this topic has been up before but i just need to know before i go and buy a 200-500 dollar part... when i fill it up the pump cuts off at 15.5 and thats right about when the fuel light came on ... i can manage to get 16 in it just takes a little bit of clicks

Tanks are all the same size... The difference is the length of the vent tube, which they use to limit how much fuel you can put in.

JW

wesley4x4 wrote:it only has one line on the fuel rail and i checked the fuel pressure today at shop and it was
on position =45~ then dropping drasticly
Running= 47~ shifting from around 46-48~
off= 46-0 over 1 minute

That indicates the fump is fine and that the filter/regulator/check valve assembly is the problem.

You only need to replace the filter/regulator/check valve assembly.

Kurt wrote:

wesley4x4 wrote:it only has one line on the fuel rail and i checked the fuel pressure today at shop and it was
on position =45~ then dropping drasticly
Running= 47~ shifting from around 46-48~
off= 46-0 over 1 minute

That indicates the fump is fine and that the filter/regulator/check valve assembly is the problem.

You only need to replace the filter/regulator/check valve assembly.

ok thanks kurt! Hope this fixes my problem

well called napa and they said that part is NS (non-serviceable) because its built into the pump assembley so what should i do kurt? just get it from that website.. i mean how hard are they to replace that napa dosn't carry it?