Baystate Jeepers

Just relocated my evap canister above the axle. The bracket around it had taken some good hits and I figured I was on borrowed time with it either getting broken or pushed into the rear drive shaft. There are tons of brackets out there, but it really isn't difficult to do the MetalCloak thing to turn the white plastic piece upside down, then use the bolt hole and drill a hole through the floor in the cargo area. I even used the same bolt/nut that held it to the bracket. On the other end, a piece of angle iron bolted to the upper spring perch holds that end. One less skid needed.

Car Jack wrote:Just relocated my evap canister above the axle. The bracket around it had taken some good hits and I figured I was on borrowed time with it either getting broken or pushed into the rear drive shaft. There are tons of brackets out there, but it really isn't difficult to do the MetalCloak thing to turn the white plastic piece upside down, then use the bolt hole and drill a hole through the floor in the cargo area. I even used the same bolt/nut that held it to the bracket. On the other end, a piece of angle iron bolted to the upper spring perch holds that end. One less skid needed.

Thanks Car Jack! That’s something else to consider. I’ve always been a fan of a metal cloak’s products, just not their prices. With that said, if it’s the same price (or cheaper) than a skid plate and also helps with clearance it’s a no brainer.

I think I've seen those protecting washer things on Quadratec for something like $9 each.

My last project was to remove the canister and move it over the axle. One piece of angle iron, bolted to the upper pass side spring perch and one bolt through the floor. I used the trick MetalCloak uses to flip the canister upside down to use that mounting tab. Unclip the whiteish plastic thing with the hose and electric fitting and flip it 180 degrees. Very easy to do. All the lines and hoses fit without cutting anything. I'm not lifted a lot but one of the reasons to get rid of the canister in the stock location is that very lifted Jeeps in full articulation can put the drive shaft rubber baffle right into the bracket, ripping it apart. I don't need that to happen, so it's no longer there.

Spend as much as you can to cover the important parts, the save to cover the rest!
If you wheel red & blacks, spend even more!!

The one thing I didn't see anyone mention is lower control arm mounts. If you can weld box them. If you can't there are a few companies that make bolt on ones. Stock diff covers take a beating too if you play in the rocks.

MDSRACING398 wrote:The one thing I didn't see anyone mention is lower control arm mounts. If you can weld box them. If you can't there are a few companies that make bolt on ones. Stock diff covers take a beating too if you play in the rocks.

That’s a great point as well! I’ll add those to the list. In terms of welding my own boxes, I’d be better off just buying them. Nobody wants me to weld anything.

Can't learn if you don't try!

MDSRACING398 wrote:Can't learn if you don't try!

I can burn the house down by trying though...

In all honestly, I would try if I had the right equipment. I usually buy the tools when I need them, but in this case there are cheap enough parts out there for cheap.

JKU gas skid at Morris 4x4 for $110. I couldn't pass it up. Rubicon Express.

Sometimes just getting a second stock skid and fitting it over the first is all you need. FjR68

Don’t think that will work with JK skids. They won’t nest enough

I actually bit the billet and went with the full metal cloak kit. I continued to do my research and read some great reviews comparing that to the rock hard. I got they Presidents’ Day 10% with free shipping and it was pretty close to the same price as the rock hard set.

I’ll test it out with you all on the trail very soon!

BRWhelan wrote: ↑Sat Feb 22, 2020 7:15 am I actually bit the billet and went with the full metal cloak kit. I continued to do my research and read some great reviews comparing that to the rock hard. I got they Presidents’ Day 10% with free shipping and it was pretty close to the same price as the rock hard set.

I’ll test it out with you all on the trail very soon!

I see your signed up for next weekends run. If you can have them on by then you will have a better time out there, its a great property but to really experience it properly you will want skids.

I think Randy and I have posted similar pictures before, but for anyone reading that wants to see photos of the MetalCloak skid system and EVO shock and control arm armor, I thought these would be helpful:









Now all my rock-strike damage accumulates at the back of the control arm mounts.



When that bushing got crushed and started grinding, croaking and groaning, it vibrated through the frame scared the crap out of me! Took me a while to figure out what it was.

The raised shock mounts/skid is the way to go in the rear (middle picture). Gets them out of the rocks or allows them to skid over them.