Baystate Jeepers

How can you tell if you have a HP D30 or a LP D30?

Add to your "rip everything out" to-do list....
...
78) clean inside axle tube
79) replace axle seal
80) check for spun bearing race
...

No need to re-shim if you don't damage them during removal/installation.
Here is the LP and HP D30. HP on the right.

Anyone else have any suggestions / feedback regarding the metal flakes or how diff looks?

I would think that if the fluid wasnt changed for many miles , you would see debris in the oil.For a change in 300 miles I still wouldnt get to excited about debris,there is bound to be leftover. Some of your pics show the spider gears with galling and thats what Id be concerned about. If the diff dont make any noise dont look at till the end of the season, But if there is pitting on the ring and pinion and the spider gears, You should think about replacement at some point. The gears should just be shiny and smooth from the wear pattern. Preload is NOT a guessing game,Its the second most critical measurement in the pattern.Pinion depth is number one. The crush sleeve you have sets that,so If there is guesswork going on ? FjR68

I was able to spend some time and clean out the spider gears and look at the r&p with the break cleaner. The good news is there is no signs of wear to the r&p, however the spider gears seem sloppy and have that burn look. My guess is whoever had the jeep before me, let the diff fluid go low and caused damage to the spider gears. I am going to replace the pinion seal today and soon will be installing a lunchbox locker. I hope to see everyone on the trail tomorrow.

I think this was a good learning experience for me, forced me to get into the axle and learn a bit more. This winter I plan to attempt setting up my own r&p.

Chris wrote:I and soon will be installing a lunchbox locker.

good for you! The haters are gonna tell you it's a waste of money but I think it's a HUGE benefit having the front locked