Baystate Jeepers

Thank you Randy.

I just got a set of poison spider bombshell diff covers and want to install them this weekend. I just read the instructions from poison spider stating the dana 44 cover may interfere with the stock rear track bar. Has anyone put this diff cover on with the stock rear track bar? Any issues? 2015 2dr Wrangler BTW. Thank you.

Mikmaq wrote:I just got a set of poison spider bombshell diff covers and want to install them this weekend. I just read the instructions from poison spider stating the dana 44 cover may interfere with the stock rear track bar. Has anyone put this diff cover on with the stock rear track bar? Any issues? 2015 2dr Wrangler BTW. Thank you.

I had those on both diffs, 2013 jk 2dr. Got replaced when I put in lockers. It was one of my first repairs due to a peel back. Pretty sure I had them on pre-lift.

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"It was one of my first repairs due to a peel back." One of the marketing points for this particular diff cover is limited amount of lip so peel back potential is reduced. We shall see. The only way I will find out if they fit is to put the rear one on. Positive thinking!!!

just try them out. worst case scenario, you install them and you loose some steering radius. manufacturers will put disclaimers on their products just to cover their butts. don’t over think it. just install them without diff fluid and see what the results are. (don’t drive the jeep, just turn the steering wheel, if they interfere with steering at full lock, take em off, put the stock ones on and return em for a refund.

I didnt know you can steer with the rear wheels , I want that ! FjR68

Frank wrote:I didnt know you can steer with the rear wheels , I want that ! FjR68

apparently i missed the whole “rear” part of the problem.

Update. The plan for today WAS to install diffs, skids, rails and sliders. 25% percent complete. No skids, sliders, or rails. Diffs took five hours. Removal and cleanup went fine. No steering issue in the front and there was enough clearance with the rear cover and track bar. Front diff went on smooth. In the instructions from Poison Spyder they state to torque all attachment bolts to Jeep torque specs. I looked that info up and the spec is 30 lbs for the bolts and 25 lbs for the plug. All ten front bolts torqued to 30 lbs no problems. And then came the rear diff....... Third bolt in "snap". No bueno. Call around for a bolt 5/16-18 x 7/8 gr8. No dice, either 3/4" or 1". Huge thanks to Rich L, a quick call to him and he makes a suggestion, I get home start again new bolt goes in fine. Bolt #5 "snap" from Poison Spyder. No bueno!!!!! Remove bolts and cover, move to plan B and it works. Reduced torque to 25 lbs all is good. Thought I had enough gear oil with 3 quarts, no. Mind you, I have to be at work for 17:30 and it is 16:00. Get another quart of oil, add, and have just enough to make it. Plugs in, 25 lbs torque. Checked twice no gear oil leaking at the bottom of the diffs or plugs.

Lessons learned.
I was informed gr8 bolts should have a max torque of 27 lbs. The interwebs agrees, but there is a ton of differing spec info on the correct amount of torque for that bolt size and grade, and add in coarse or fine thread, and dry, lubricated, or lock tite and the numbers fluctuate greatly. How the Hell I did not snap a front diff bolt at 30 lbs is beyond me. Lucky, Hell yeah!

Rich L gave me a couple of tech tips that worked wicked pissa! Thanks Rich!

Spend the extra money and have extra bolts on hand and gear oil, probably going to use them in the future anyways.

Even though I did not complete my goal for today, I did learn a lot. The best part of my day was my oldest son (22) spent the whole day helping me and we got to hang out. I do not get to do enough of that with him anymore so despite the setbacks the time together was priceless.

Rails, sliders, skids hopefully during the week.

Question for the wicked experienced members. I really want to go to 101 and that is why I am trying to get all the under belly armor on. If I cannot get all my belly armor on is the trail ride at 101 friendly enough that I will not damage my underside?

Sorry for the long read, Happy Easter, Mik out......

For the 101, you might bump on one spot, but the other two big rocks have a go around if you feel the need.

Had a blast today! Glad I had the skids and sliders in place lol. Thank you to the BSJ volunteers for making this event happen.

I have a JKU Rubicon with 35s and I was wonder what skid plate or plates should I get first? I wanted to buy in stages as the total kit is over $1000 bucks. Thanks for advice? Fuel tank, engine skid???

Oil pan/ engine skid #1, lca mounts I think are important and over looked too. If you plan to be in the rocks buy quality stuff, pay a little more now so don't have to do again later. A lot of companies have kits that work together, sometimes when you mix and match you need to do modifications to make work.

MDSRACING398 wrote:Oil pan/ engine skid #1, lca mounts I think are important and over looked too. If you plan to be in the rocks buy quality stuff, pay a little more now so don't have to do again later. A lot of companies have kits that work together, sometimes when you mix and match you need to do modifications to make work.

WORD!!

What brand do you have or what are the quality names to look for thanks?

Jrevman wrote:What brand do you have or what are the quality names to look for thanks?

any of the major brands will do fine. for the JK, i’ve assisted the install of Clayton skids and was impressed with the quality. on my TJ i’m running UndercoverFab.