Baystate Jeepers

Hmmm... 1330... The double cardan joints with 1330's don't flex as much as a 1310 double cardan joint.
You definitely need change things to ensure it can't bind up.

Also adding limit strap(s) may be needed.

1" tcase drop installed. No more binding. Road test and highway test resulted in no vibrations at acceleration, coasting or braking.

I'm confident the jeep is drivable and wheelable. Adjustable arms are ready to be installed but I've run out of time before Rausch.

Here is a picture of the rear shaft for discussion.

The rear pinion certainly needs to get angled up a bunch.

Kurt wrote:The rear pinion certainly needs to get angled up a bunch.

I agree, but does it need to happen before the trip, or can it wait until after?

I'm a bit surprised you don't have any vibes with the pinion at it's present angle.
Your call but I'd recommend getting the uppers in and the angle fixed before Rausch. My concern is that if the rear axle droops on an obstacle the DC joint could bind up.

Sending you a PM...

A huge thanks to Kurt for provide a garage, an experienced set of hands and an extremely willing attitude! Adjustable uppers are installed and angles are corrected!

It seems this will be my build thread as chasing issues is all I've been doing this year.

The jeep passed inspection, but just. I've started a list of things I need to remedy, but the most pressing thing currently is the front diff pinion. Its got quite a bit of play in all directions, so the jeep is parked for now.

List of Issues to chase, listed in order of priority:
1. Front Differential Pinion Bearings - Replace.
2. Front Differential Inner Axle Seals - Replace.
3. Driver Front Wheel Bearing starting to develop play, barely noticeable currently (per Sullivan Tire mechanic) - Replace both sides.
4. Further Adjust Rear Pinion Angle, currently 2-3 degrees, assess vibrations after front pinion work to verify vibrations or lack thereof, lessen angle if needed.
5. Driver Rear Brake pads @ 3/32", brakes and rotors were replaced this time last year (~6,000 miles ago). Diagnostics to follow. - Replace pads both sides.
6. Locker Pump Bracket Relocation, currently free floating on top of skid, not bolted down.
7. CB Radio, speaker non-functional - Replace with new CB with RF Gain control, external speaker?
8. Motor Mounts - Replace.
9. Front Lower Control Arms Bent - Do nothing for now (full control arm replacement possible 2016).
10. Tiny Most-Terrain Tires - Replace with larger more agressive tires, Size/Type TBD.
11. Old Soft Top - Replace with new Rampage Frameless top.

My garage is always available if you want to tackle any of the items on your list.

Kurt wrote:My garage is always available if you want to tackle any of the items on your list.

Thanks Kurt! My living arrangements are changing next month, and my roommate and I will have half a garage to use. I think they've got quite a few tools as well. The only thing that really really scares me on the list is the pinion bearings. My current neighbor has done them many times before so he has offered to help me out.

I pulled the front driveshaft to get a better idea what the pinion is up to. The pinion nut is still torqued down to a high torque. I couldn't get it any tighter or looser. I have play in all directions. Up, down, left, right, in out, slantways, etc. looks like a tear down will be in order.

I spoke with a friend, who is also like me and this is beyond our skill levels and he brought up this point. If a friend, or neighbor was to do this work, and something isn't adjusted/torqued correctly, and the diff has some catastrophic issue, I can't do anything about it. If I take it to a shop, and the same catastrophic issue happens, they could be liable for it. Does it then make sense to have a shop do the work? Or have a friend or neighbor help me out?

First off , there is a specific torque for the pinion nut. If your beyond that or below that it will destroy the bearing on the pinion. Which in turn will eat the ring gear , BOOM ! If the pinion is moving at all there is a problem. It warrants you to pull the cover , the carrier and the pinion. If youve never done gears its a very smart move to take it to a shop. There are people that do gears in the club. If you were to take the axle out and apart it would be half price to repair or replace . Expect a shop to charge between 600 and 750 if you drive it in. If you have no damage to the gears at this point your lucky. Make sure you have the gear ratio you want for the tires you run as its going to be apart , you might as well bite the bigger bullet only once. FjR68

If you're able to, it wouldn't hurt to pull the cover and take a closer look. You could still fill it with oil and bring it somewhere later.

Frank wrote:First off , there is a specific torque for the pinion nut. If your beyond that or below that it will destroy the bearing on the pinion. Which in turn will eat the ring gear , BOOM ! If the pinion is moving at all there is a problem. It warrants you to pull the cover , the carrier and the pinion. If youve never done gears its a very smart move to take it to a shop. There are people that do gears in the club. If you were to take the axle out and apart it would be half price to repair or replace . Expect a shop to charge between 600 and 750 if you drive it in. If you have no damage to the gears at this point your lucky. Make sure you have the gear ratio you want for the tires you run as its going to be apart , you might as well bite the bigger bullet only once. FjR68

del_TJ wrote:If you're able to, it wouldn't hurt to pull the cover and take a closer look. You could still fill it with oil and bring it somewhere later.

I could pull the cover, but it wouldn't do me any good. I can't remedy the issue on my own. If anyone wants to do this work, I can provide compensation of limited means. If I take it to a shop, it'll be going on a credit card like the rest of the junk I've done this year so far.

There is a shop down the street from work in Woburn, Riverside Auto, that said verbally without seeing the jeep, that it would be 4-5 hours to do. That seems quite reasonable to me. I'd have them do the inner axle seals at the same time.

If anyone in the club can and wants to do the work for/with me, send me a PM and we can work something out.

Dan as you know im in Ct. so its a drive. Thats the reason I suggested taking the diff out and apart ,(brakes,axle shafts) They would only have to fool with the diff. At least pullin the cover and looking is only going to cost you oil. I cant imagine a pinion moving as you described hasnt destroyed the ring gear. Without having a place to let the Jeep sit apart , its not going to be an easy fix. I can help you but would need to set up time ,date, place Vs. here and if you need parts can we do it in one day. See if the shop near work can pull the cover and inspect or guess whats going on. Then you can decide if you want them to do it. What about Elias or another Jeep guy. You stated a bearing was replaced on the pinion. So Im going to assume its a bearing and shim set up Vs. a Crush sleeve ? FjR68

I haven't done any work inside the differential and pinion before.

According to Quadratec's replacement part diagrams, it looks like a shim set up.

Does anyone have a preference where a R&P and Master setup kit can be purchased? I'm not looking for the cheapest, but I don't want to spend a ton. I'm sticking with the 4.10's in there now.