Baystate Jeepers

Look at having the "Cs" gusseted , and sleeve the tubes. Even a full truss could help. Make sure you read up on where these newer 44s bend and check them good before you give up the cash. Good gear choice, good luck. FjR68

Frank wrote:Look at having the "Cs" gusseted , and sleeve the tubes. Even a full truss could help. Make sure you read up on where these newer 44s bend and check them good before you give up the cash. Good gear choice, good luck. FjR68

They are off a 2015 with 2k miles so they should be in perfect shape. Acouple other people have bough the axles off his last rubicon and said they were perfect. I will probably weld on C gussets and do some sleeves but I am hesitant to weld on a full truss since I was told the heating of the cast housing could warp it. a dynatrac prorock with d60 C's is about 2200 so I'm not willing to put too much into it, maybe some RCV 35 spline shafts.

Thats a pretty strong add on the RCVs. If there was an issue welding on a truss , do you think people would do it let alone aftermarket. If you control your heat your fine. Not telling what and what not to do , but Ive been welding for about 40 yrs. I dont have many issues. Understanding what metal your welding is key. You probably wont need the truss if you sleeve the tubes anyway. Good find and good luck. FjR68

Frank wrote:Thats a pretty strong add on the RCVs. If there was an issue welding on a truss , do you think people would do it let alone aftermarket. If you control your heat your fine. Not telling what and what not to do , but Ive been welding for about 40 yrs. I dont have many issues. Understanding what metal your welding is key. You probably wont need the truss if you sleeve the tubes anyway. Good find and good luck. FjR68

I'll definately give it a try then. If I mess up I can justify a PR44 housing!

The JK Rubi axles are plenty strong if you build them correctly. Mine had C gussets, long side truss, Reid knuckles, Poly Performance ball joints RCV's, and 1 ton rod ends. With 4.88's, stock lockers, and 37" competition stickies that setup held up to a ton of abuse. These guys will tell you, I beat the hell out of that Jeep.

Come to think of it, the only axle related break I had on that setup was snapping off my front track bar bracket. Solution: ditched the stacked aftermarket over factory setup and welded on a beefy bracket from Poly.

Those axles are currently still taking abuse somewhere in northern PA.

ArticRubi wrote:The JK Rubi axles are plenty strong if you build them correctly. Mine had C gussets, long side truss, Reid knuckles, Poly Performance ball joints RCV's, and 1 ton rod ends. With 4.88's, stock lockers, and 37" competition stickies that setup held up to a ton of abuse. These guys will tell you, I beat the hell out of that Jeep.

Come to think of it, the only axle related break I had on that setup was snapping off my front track bar bracket. Solution: ditched the stacked aftermarket over factory setup and welded on a beefy bracket from Poly.

Those axles are currently still taking abuse somewhere in northern PA.

Sweet! Looks like those Rubi axles were a great choice. Did you do anything to the rear axle?

Just a truss and chromo axle shafts

Straight from the horses mouth ! Most magazines claim a 44 can live with 37s but not much more than that. I learned watching the guys and gals in this club , and we used to have a max tire size of 35 . The things they did just blew me away. Over the years I built,added,fabricated my Jeep and now I feel like I hold my own. It takes time Dude. Relax , well help ya figure out what you need and how to GITERDONE ! FjR68