Baystate Jeepers

Joliet Jake Blues wrote:

mrfreakinwhite wrote:If you're going through u-joints that quickly on 44 shafts, you probably have worn out ears.
Real spicer joints are pretty good.

Jim's frame and suspension are mint. Clayton long arms and a perfect frame. The whole kit was done by Siwinski, and Jim's steering and everything is done. I've convoyed with him at 75-80 mph several times, and road manners aren't something he ever worries about. It's got a Rubi case and 5 speed, full armor, etc. Its worst quirk is it is too tall for its 35s.

I thinki it was chit u-joints my mechanic tapped in for me before RC. never had a issue with them unitl the last RC trip then I spit one out and another a few weeks later at FF.

The jeep you speak of is being parted out.

Jim's TJ - EXACTLY. Clayton, Rubi 241, 5 speed, steering, drive shafts... Perfect frame. That Clayton installation is text book perfect on a rust free frame.

U-Joints - yeah, so a cheap joint goes on the trail and causes minor collateral damage to the ears. The ears will only take so many failures before they are worn out and splayed. This one is off a 2011 JK. One failure of the stock joint from shock load. The stub shaft is damaged. We put a joint in it as a temporary fix until his RCVs arrived. Stock shafts will only last so long. Especially with a stick shift. I think I might have been talking about this with people on the trail Saturday, but wheeling with a foot on the clutch pedal leads to this. A little roll back, a little forward torque... It's much better to stall than to ride the clutch, and with fuel injection just a little throttle tickle at the right moment keeps you crawling and avoiding this.

Spicers are always in stock here (Elias).
We're selling a lot of TEN Factory shafts and they come with Spicers installed. (Ten yer warranty.)
We're selling more RCVs, though, because eventually one's time is worth more than the actual cost. (Lifetime warranty.)

I am still running stock shafts, rebuilding while I can, carrying spares and carrying stub shafts just in case I get beyond just in case.

mrfreakinwhite wrote:Spicers are always in stock here (Elias).
We're selling a lot of TEN Factory shafts and they come with Spicers installed. (Ten yer warranty.)
We're selling more RCVs, though, because eventually one's time is worth more than the actual cost. (Lifetime warranty.)

I am still running stock shafts, rebuilding while I can, carrying spares and carrying stub shafts just in case I get beyond just in case.

what I blew up was repalced. they only blew once, took out the short shaft and repalced it. I wouldve bought them from you but it was Friday night...

From what Ive read , RCVs are to be the catsazz when it comes to strength ? Every thing Ive learned over time (alot) is when you make this stronger ,something else down stream becomes the weak link ? Yes/no . Dont most of front end U-joint failures come from lack-O maint? No room for grease fittings and such. Heavy throttle while having the wheels turn,bouncing. (load-unload) And yes Id agree that an auto would be easier on parts but to me it wouldnt be as much fun. Although I have no experience with an auto, It would just seem to be more difficult to opperate - Having to use both feet to control speed where a stick with enough gear will do that for you. Just askin. FjR68

Rumor has it too that there is a gift certificate from RCV in the Rally raffle.

Probably dont apply to CJs . FjR68

Frank wrote:From what Ive read , RCVs are to be the catsazz when it comes to strength ? Every thing Ive learned over time (alot) is when you make this stronger ,something else down stream becomes the weak link ? Yes/no . Dont most of front end U-joint failures come from lack-O maint? No room for grease fittings and such. Heavy throttle while having the wheels turn,bouncing. (load-unload) And yes Id agree that an auto would be easier on parts but to me it wouldnt be as much fun. Although I have no experience with an auto, It would just seem to be more difficult to opperate - Having to use both feet to control speed where a stick with enough gear will do that for you. Just askin. FjR68

They can move the weak link to something less fusible, correct. I wouldn't use them on a D30, but I would on a D44.
I try to use u-joints with grease fitting to save the axle shafts. Any u-joint I have broken without a grease fitting has completely destroyed at least one half of the axle set, either, stub or inner shaft.
I like shifting, myself, but thought of going to an automatic because I am sick of breaking joints under load/bounce, etc. Personally, I think my Aussie front locker on the street is actually killing the joint over time, but then off road is where I have the failure.
I'll be getting TEN Facotry chrome moly shafts to reduce damaged joints and also to resist collateral damage when it does happen.

I crawl my manual shifted XJ. One foot hovers over the throttle, just in case I need a little feathering. The other foot rests on the floor.