Baystate Jeepers

Little Napoleon wrote:Or you could just run 33's, locked f&r and make things look easy, like I do... Just saying

I am almost certain you will kill the stock lockers with the stickies.

X2 Chris. That is how Carol & my Jeep is set up and we are very happy.(33's, Aussie Front and Eaton soft locker in rear)

ArticRubi wrote:The Detroit in the front shouldn't effect street driving, it only locks when torque is applied via the front driveshaft. Only "side effect" would be clicking sound.

So your saying that you will be coasting through every corner you make? No, of course not. Taking a turn from a red light will apply torque to the locker and keep it engaged. ( turning while moving will keep the Detroit locked, which is one of the reasons locking hubs should be used with a front locker)
Keep in mind, a Detroit is not as forgiving as other auto lockers. Lock Rite, Power Trax will make clicking sounds as the teeth slide by each other during a turn, the Detroits only function is to keep the axles locked at all times, when it does load up and unlock it makes a snapping or popping noises sounding more like an axle breaking than anything else.

What I'm saying is in 2WD you won't know it's there. It only locks if your front driveline is engaged.

ArticRubi wrote:What I'm saying is in 2WD you won't know it's there. It only locks if your front driveline is engaged.

Nah, not really. Lockrights and Detroits are always engaged. They are spring loaded causing the center dog teeth to rest against the axleshaft dog teeth. Under coast conditions, the center pin(s) are not forced against the locker, but there is still drag caused by the movement/weight of the vehicle. When you make a turn, you will reach a point of load where one axleshaft will overcome this drag force, causing the locker to disengage (the click or bang). In the front, this is exaggerated because it is a steering axle.

So here's final decision:
Outside of maybe a run or two, I'm going to shelf the stickies for a while. Time to put the brakes on this build a bit. Main reason I got them is the deal I got...almost $300 a tire less than MSRP.

Going to sell my 35's and they wheels they're mounted on. They've been alright, but I need to get air pressure down, and I cant run less than 10 psi without losing a bead, I run 11 or 12 for the most part to be safe. I'll be mounting a set of 37x12.50 pit bull rockers on the spyderlocks. These are supposed to be a truly excellent performing radial m/t with decent road manners.

Feel free to take your shots now

i wheel with a guy with those tires and he has to run inner and outer beadlocks with no air in them what so ever just to get them to flex alittle. they are a very stiff tire and take a long time to break in. they are a good tire for a real heavy rig but when you drive a liter rig they don't flex at all. he originaly ran just regular bead locks and kept popping the inner bead. but good luck with them