Baystate Jeepers

name my price....... hmmmmmmm......

Dude, you get the BSJ pricing. Nada. Zilch. Zip. I just put next Saturday on the calendar, it's in stone. You need help, I'm there. Just let me know when. Plus I have my new Mechanix gloves to break in

you guys rock!

update: case # has been started with Chrysler, I am now waiting on a call from them. the biggest problem may be that if they do not make a decision quickly and then that decision is no i may not have time to get the parts delivered by this weekend.

if they say yes i will have to remove some of the aftermarket stuff from under the hood, but i can do that pretty quickly.

Aftermarket stuff under the hood????? You?????? Nahhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!

johnsxj wrote:Aftermarket stuff under the hood????? You?????? Nahhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!

i know, i know! i figured i would either have to pay extra for labor or deal with that myself. honestly not that big a deal, i can remove all of the necessary stuff pretty quick. and i wouldn't expect that to be part of the repair, just what chrysler f'd up!

Ryan : Im going to see my Brother in S. C. thurs. 22nd till the following thurs. Hopefully they hook you up. Let us know what happens. Good luck ! FjR68

my update is really no update at all. it's been sitting at the dealership since monday, and i finally at least have a case open with chrysler. i stopped by the dealer this morning to make sure it was "diagnosed," so i think at least that should be settled. ugh.

Ryan : If things dont work out at the dealer, let me know and we can do it the following weekend. As I said Im gone this weekend. FjR68

man o' man. after a week and a half of back and forth i got it down to $300 out of pocket and they will do the work. less expensive then buying the parts, and all i have to do is get the aftermarket stuff out of the way. i just want my jeep back!!!

That's not so bad!

Are they going to make it stock again and back to the original problem? Do you still have to mod it after the repair?

as long as you get it back by 11:30 Saturday, so you can get to the meeting by 1

Will they use the same parts ? Do they have updated parts ? Didnt you say a seal is in the wrong place ? Wont it happen again ? Nice even number of questions , dont ya think FjR68

They have to put in a new cam and new OPDA, which is what matters. I already have the parts to mod the OPDA (fog mod on jeep forum) to lubricate the upper bushing, so hopefully it won't happen again. I do plan to check it regularly, and hopefully if it starts to fail again I can catch it when it's only the OPDA worn down, and not the cam.

You're just so smooth Frankie!

That's awesome man! IMO they should have done it for free but $300 for that job is a great deal.

still waiting, what a PIA. already two days late.

i've read a bit about using an oil with higher ZDDP for the 4.0. any thoughts on this? http://www.valvoline.com/products/brand ... otor-oil/6 i'm already running regular oil so i don't want to switch to synthetic. figure i'm going to need to do an oil change pretty quick after the break-in period so i might as well get the right stuff. i also wonder if i should use MMO again...

Baseshakers wrote:still waiting, what a PIA. already two days late.

i've read a bit about using an oil with higher ZDDP for the 4.0. any thoughts on this? http://www.valvoline.com/products/brand ... otor-oil/6 i'm already running regular oil so i don't want to switch to synthetic. figure i'm going to need to do an oil change pretty quick after the break-in period so i might as well get the right stuff. i also wonder if i should use MMO again...

The 2.5/4.0/258 engines don't need extra ZDDP outside what is currently offered in the latest API rated SN formulated oils. I've never had any issues with ANY of my Jeep engines and neither have millions of other owners. The valve spring pressures are very mild. After the proper break in, running regular oil is fine.


Regarding synthetic, it's an old wives tale on compatibility. I switch back and forth ALL the time. What do people who use syn blends do? LOL

Besides that, most over the counter synthetics here in the US are actually Group III ,which is more or a less a more processed conventional. That's not to say that it doesn't perform well though.

The Group III debate started when Exxon Mobil sued Castrol over calling this type of processing "synthetic". Castrol won the battle, but only here in the US. In EU and other parts of the world, only Group IV and V PAO or Ester based lubricants can be called "synthetic" (although IIRC, the additive package carrier oil does not have to be).

I've been on a motor oil forum for seven years now, and while I am not an expert or tribologist, I have learned a few things here and there. I think you're doing fine running the oil you have. The 4.0L is a robust design and there are millions running regular oil every day. The cam and sensor gear issues was clearly a design flaw.