Baystate Jeepers

Chris wrote:Yes... Anything that I should know about?

I figured that was why you asked for the pinion.

Nothing I haven't already told you... Good luck with them. Hopefully they work better for you than they did for me.

JW

Decided to start over following a couple different threads. Picked up a 2 jaw puller to make removing the yoke easier, was a smart move.

Now on my 12th setup and think I might have a good pattern, will post later. Basically I have the setup down to a T, takes about 10mins each time to change the setup. Very glad I decided to do this myself, but at the same time I can see why you would pay for gearing to be done for you.

2 Questions.... does anyone know why the coast side pattern stays towards the toe even when BL is in spec?

Drive & Coast pattern both towards toe similar to the photo of the pattern below.

PPL .020
Shim Stack .028
RSG .053
NRSG.058
BL .004


Drive centered between heel and toe / Coast is still at the toe

PPL .020
Shim Stack .028
RSG .047
NRSG.064
BL .007

Drive side



Coast side




I am thinking I can either adjust the BL to be around .005-.006 and if the coast is still at the toe, I would then increase the shim stack to .030 - .032. and adjust BL.

Feedback??

It could just be how this old gear set was broken in. The pinion seems to be at the right place. The D30 BL spec is 6-10. Give .009 a try...

I just inspected again the wear pattern of the ring itself, from being used. Both drive and coast show that mirror-shiny look, centered. With the pattern above, just not impressed with the coast pattern. The drive pattern is not going to get better than it is.

Since I can break down and adjust the setup fairly quickly, I don't mind the adjustments. In fact it is neat to learn how the different adjustments can shift the pattern. I am sure this will help inspect patterns down the road.

If you run the "best" pattern you've got, the worst that will happen is you'll find out you have to junk these gears and get new ones. Just run them for a bit and check the oil after a ~50 miles of driving... If they are wearing you'll be able to tell.

JW

Seeing as it's on the drive side 99.999% of the time, try to set the drive side of the pattern as close to what where the wear marks were originally on the gears.

OK I am such a tool! I did not include the pinion oil slinger & baffle when measuring pinion shim stack... Arugh

So any previous posts/photos are null and voided. Not a problem, will start over tomorrow.

Chris wrote:OK I am such a tool! I did not include the pinion oil slinger & baffle when measuring pinion shim stack... Arugh

So any previous posts/photos are null and voided. Not a problem, will start over tomorrow.

That which does not kill us, makes us stronger.

With that said, if you included the slinger and baffle, what would be a good shim stack starting point? Remember this is HP D30.

measure the slinger and baffle and subtract that from you shim pack.

So far each pattern I have taken has the coast pattern towards the toe, barely moving towards the center.

The Pinion shim stack noted in the photos is without the slinger and baffle.

Pinion Shim Stack .058
RGS = .055
NRGS = .060
BL = .007
PPL = 15







Pinion Shim Stack .064
RGS = .050
NRGS = .065
BL = .007
PPL = 15

Like I said, concentrate towards what the pattern is on the drive side of the gears. The vast majority of the time you're driving on the drive side of the gears.

I would say your last pics is an "acceptable pattern".


Pinion Shim Stack .064
RGS = .050
NRGS = .065
BL = .007
PPL = 15

Thanks for the feedback! FWIW I started to inspect the pinion after reading someone's tip regarding how that is also a important pattern to review. I can say there are SO many little details that are not posted in "how to threads".

Tip: Good way to apply resistance to the carrier... Use 2 wooden door shims with a rag and wedge it between the hoising and ring gear.

Tip: A pattern that has a solid line towards the root from the pinion drive side means the pinion is TO DEEP.