Let’s talk skid plates

[BRWhelan]

Hi all,

I’m trying to figure out what skid plates to buy. There are more than a few options from steel to aluminum to different gauge thicknesses, finishes and fitment.

I’m a fan of going steel because aluminum, though lighter, seems like a few good rocks would do a number on it. (Maybe I’m wrong?)

As this is a toy vehicle, I don’t want to spend a fortune but understand the concerns going cheap as well. I’d like to stay under $1000 for full undercarriage coverage.

What are others using for their JKs?

Ps, I know I can read reviews online for product reviews, but want to hear about what the fellow off-roaders here are doing.

Bryan
2012 JK Rubi 2door, AEV 2.5 and 35s

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

I have a different generation wrangler, but my advice works with all of em. Figure out your highest priority skid, could be your EVAP or engine. Spend good money, regardless of how much. Then pick the next item, spend good money. If you run out, save up, drive smart, then buy the next one. “Back in my day” people would wheel stock vehicles, find out what they needed to do first, then do it in stages. Pick a brand and style you want to stick with, and prioritize them, then just go down the list.

Buy once, cry once, but not all at once.

[Car Jack]

There's lots of ways to go. I've added them piece meal and have Rubicon Express steel skids on the oil pan and tranny. I've seen the MetalCloak full underskid and it's certainly going to do the job. I was concerned with the price, weight and potential loss of clearance. The fuel tank skid will be next on my list for a JKU. They are available cheap and go over the existing tank "holder". My stock holder has been beat to hell.

Diffs are a whole other story. I've ground the bottom edge of the stock cover but have seen small dents in both front and rear, so I know I need something. I like the protective covers as they don't take away from clearance like skids do. I'm not that lifted and only 295 tires, so tend to get hung up where just 2 1/2" lifted Jeeps on 35's just get over stuff.

Before even getting my first skid, I got some good, frame mounted rock sliders. They've been the best protection I've bought.

[Richl35]

I’ve run some cheap Smittybilt steel skids with a Rough Country tank skid. They worked perfectly fine and took all the hits in stride. I did an LS swap and went to RockHard’s aluminum skids. No worries in the least bit they will take everything I throw at them. Pricy? Oh yes! The opposite of the Smitty product for sure. You can tell they are better quality overall but was it necessary? No. I just wanted to lighten up my Jeep some after all the weight I have added to it. Others have given some great advice. You don’t have to buy all at once but if you do I recommend getting the best you can afford... even if it’s just the Smittybilt or something like the Quadratec aluminum set which are both fairly inexpensive.

[Hoodoo Man]

Rock Hard steel FTW. tough as nails and good company to deal with. Go to Barrett Fab or offroad elements for the best local pricing. At the time I got mine ORE beat 4wd by a wide margin for cost. I now prefer Barrett as I have wheeled a lot with Cody and Ricky... and their prices are very good.

[pirahnah3]

As others have said decide what is important and go that way. Anything that is going to take solid impact I dont know that I would go aluminum on. I beleive a few folks have run aluminum on here without major issues. I know the majority will most likely tell you steel all the way. I went all steel and plan to use them, thou I think I probably could have cheated on a couple but not sure of the value that would have given.

In the end take it slow and easy, pick the ones you must have or the system you want and start putting it together.

[Lisah311]

Not sure how hard you plan on wheeling, but my Rockhard skids on my 4 door got destroyed on some small little rock garden. The door on the oil pan skid was pushed all the way up and had to cut it off in order to change the oil. I was not happy with them at all. They were thick but didn’t have the support and seemed to bend on the sides, as well.

But, apparently others have had good things to say so I don’t know if it’s just me. I went with the steel.

Check out Undercloak or Hauk. Artec too.

[Frank]

Steel is heavier , Aluminum dont slide over things as well (gouge) best advice was buy what you can afford . You said its a toy so I assuming you can still get to work on Monday.With that being said , I would take all the info you get from people driving the same type of Jeep you own and make a decision . There is a difference between a 2 and 4 door even though its a JK. If your skid is like the TJ was , its gotta go. Thats the only complaint I know of as you started out with the best of the best Rubicon. Their front axle is weak also but reasonable driving habits let it survive. Mine are all home made .25" plate supported by 1" tubing , scratched but never bent. Sliders are important also. Good luck . FjR68

[RandyCarol]

I’m on my second Rock Hard engine/trans skid, went with the 1/4” this time. Still have my factory T-case and gas tank skids but gas tank skid is about done. I’d start with one of those and add the others as you see fit, you may not need anything else. Spend the money in decent rock rails, the cheap ones will twist like pretzels.

The weight you save with aluminum skids do not make up for their downsides

[BlackKnight]

I'm on a set of EVO skids, Evap, Engine Trany, replacement HD cross member and belly skid. The total was ~$500-700 or so back when I bought them a couple of years ago. My objective was minimalistic skids as my very first mod, as I was going to be low crawling on obstacles for a while (33"s and no lift). Now I'm on 35"s and 2.5 plus a set of front leveling blocks so a little safer...

[BRWhelan]

Thanks everyone! I’m going to take a look at all these options. This is a second vehicle and not a daily, but I do daily it during the summer when it’s nice for the top to be off or the kids (or I) want ice cream. I plan on doing some rock crawling, but as I’m on 35s and 2.5, it’ll never be a true “crawler” I just want the insurance of having it when pushing it to it’s clearance limits.

[Frank]

35s and a 2.5 is a great platform in a 2 door. Good luck with your choice. FjR68

[BRWhelan]

The EVO kits are interesting. They are also 1/4 steel like rockhard but a bit less money. I don’t know anything about either brand besides what you’ve all shared here. Looks like I have some research to do.

[BRWhelan]

It seems as the general consensus is that people like the RH more because of the recessed hardware over the EVO and it’s very clear that this is a common comparison. Looks like I might be starting the RH purchasing process, piece by piece over time.

[BlackKnight]

It seems as the general consensus is that people like the RH more because of the recessed hardware over the EVO and it’s very clear that this is a common comparison. Looks like I might be starting the RH purchasing process, piece by piece over time.

That's one of the things I noticed after the fact, but I've also seen what look like washers that have angled rims that come up on an angle outside the head of the bolt. Looking into finding them and retrofitting the bolts that are exposed (Socket Head Washers).