Chasing Issues

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

I have the Teraflex adjustable trackbar and lower arms in both the front and rear. The shocks are Bilstein 5100, model unknown but were for a 2.5-3" lift I had at the time, and I have 3" Teraflex springs currently. I'll double check the sway bar links in the rear. It feels like the shock does move, just not easy. I have zero plans this weekend, so I can spend some time under there to troubleshoot. I'd like to get a replacement shock, should I replace the rear pair? Or just the one?

[del_TJ]

If you can, pull the front springs, disconnect the sway bar and cycle the suspension every which way with the shocks in to see if there’s binding. If not, it probably just loosened up on you. Even the stock, tapered bolt on the frame side is fine as long as it stays torqued down. If it’s loosening, then there’s a reason… could be big tires and aggressive wheeling or binding somewhere.

Stock control arms in the rear can flex, cause the axle to shift and take out your shocks. Ask me how I know . I would just replace the one if that’s all it is.

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

I swapped out both rear shocks yesterday. Both shafts were bent, causing the shocks to feel frozen. I do have the issue where the shocks body hits the spring perch, so I had to cycle the suspension just to get the shock installed. The shocks I put in are actually meant for a 3 inch lift instead of the 2 inch I had on the jeep previously. Passenger shock body is annoyingly close and rubbing on the exhaust. But, it all seems to function fine on road.

Tonight after work I replaced the front trackbar. Pretty simple project. No more clunking or dead spots in the steering. I will need to figure out if I need to extend the bump stops to prevent the ball end of the track bar from impacting the diff cover on the drivers side. Until then, I need to take it easy on the trail.

Up next, get the "very small emissions leak" diagnosed and hopefully get the thing to pass inspection. Then I'll tackle the rear track bar, lower control arm heim rebuilds, rear seat bar bushing replacements, and front disconnect replacement.

[MDSRACING398]

When you had rear axle moved did they pull it forward or back? Could be part of your issue.They make extension pieces for rear shock mounts to move shocks back from axle if you don't have them might help.

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

They moved it forward, but eliminated the harmonic balancer essentially lengthening the driveshaft and lessening the angle. I've seen the extension pieces you speak of. They would help on the drivers side, but not the passenger. The passenger side is stuck between the exhaust and the perch.

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

Since I'm chasing issues and I had already created this thread a while ago for other issues, why not revive it for more issues I'm chasing.

This time, it's on my 98 XJ. It's overheating. 2000 miles ago, the head was pulled, milled flat (12 thousandths), new gasket, thermostat and water pump installed. Heater core was blown out. Drove fine, kept the temp gauge steady at normal. All seemed to be fine. Til yesterday.

On the way home, temp gauge jumped up pegged itself. Not a gradual climb from 210 to 260, but a jump. Pulled off and let it sit literally a minute. Turned the key and needle back down to 215-ish. Drove 4 minutes and it jumped again. Continued this process til dr appointment reached. Engine sat til completely cool and overheated again a few times on the way home. Weird thing was that if I shut it off before it was overheating, and turned the key, it would be in the red. Makes no sense to me.

Things I've checked:
Electric fan does not turn on. At all. Not when AC is turned on, not while overheating. Checked relay, swapped it for the starter relay and jeep started just fine. Both relays appear to be fine.

Pulled serpentine belt, water pump does not spin freely. Would appear to still be functional.

Not sure what to check next, but when I started typing this out, I started the engine. It's warmed up and been idling for 13 minutes and the temp gauge hasn't moved above 210.

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

Minute 15 update: electric fan is working. It's kicking on no problem now.

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

Minute 20 update: overheated, "check gauges" lit up on dash. Turned off. Driving TJ to dinner.

[Kurt]

Might want to check lower radiator hose. Might be collapsing and restricting water flow. Most lower hoses have a metal spring in them to prevent collapsing. Yours might be bad.
Just a thought.

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

Might want to check lower radiator hose. Might be collapsing and restricting water flow. Most lower hoses have a metal spring in them to prevent collapsing. Yours might be bad.
Just a thought.

Will check that. Another person mentioned I should do a compression test, to check integrity of new head gasket.

[Kurt]

I have a compression gauge if you want to use it.

[pirahnah3]

Is there an air pocket in there at all causing the randomness?

Is the temp sensor to the gauge good? HAve you checked motor temp or are we trusting the sensor completely?

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

Is there an air pocket in there at all causing the randomness?

Is the temp sensor to the gauge good? HAve you checked motor temp or are we trusting the sensor completely?

Fairly certain there is no air. Been driving for 2k miles. No issues. Overflow tank has been full, so it's not pulling in air when it's cooling off.

When overheating, areas around radiator cap and overflow are wet like they had been spewing coolant. It's definitely hot.

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

Is there an air pocket in there at all causing the randomness?

Is the temp sensor to the gauge good? HAve you checked motor temp or are we trusting the sensor completely?

Fairly certain there is no air. Been driving for 2k miles. No issues. Overflow tank has been full, so it's not pulling in air when it's cooling off.

When overheating, areas around radiator cap and overflow are wet like they had been spewing coolant. It's definitely hot.

A new radiator cap and lower radiator hose was installed. Flushed block and system and new coolant installed. Been a month now and it seems to be good. Driven on some hot days and no issues.

On to the next....

Recently, I've had some "sputtering" and power cutting out at slow acceleration, speeds 5-30 mph. Associated with the lack of power is a "popping" and lurching as the power kicks in and out. Lift off the throttle and push it in again and give it more beans and it seems to be fine. Any cruising speed seems fine, will happily cruise once it gets to any speed above 30. Check engine light is intermittent, codes relating to O2 sensor 1. Sometimes the light is on, sometimes it isn't. Symptoms exist regardless. Recent parts include brand new spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. Other known issues, fuel sending unit is failing, gas gauge jumps around, empty to full until the tank gets to about 3/4 full. Then its consistent til empty.

Should I replace the O2 sensor next, or could it be something else I need to fix before the O2 sensor?

Thanks!

[Kurt]

The upstream O2 is responsible for the fuel/air mixture. If it's failing then your fuel/air mixture may be getting goofed up and causing performance issues.
Another cause of weird performance at a given throttle can be the Throttle Position Sensor on the throttle body.

Since it's throwing a code I'd replace the O2 first.