2012 Exhaust Extensions

[RalphTomaccio]

During my recent lift install, we ran out of time and wasn't able to install the recommended exhaust extensions to prevent the drive shaft from hitting the exhaust crossover pipe. I read recently that if the quick disconnects are not disconnected, that there shouldn't be an issue. Do you think this will work until I can find a way to install the extensions?

I also read that when you get to 3" or more of lift, a smaller diameter drive shaft is a better solution. Since my 2.5" lift netted me 4", I'm beginning to think I may have to go this route and wonder if the extensions are going to solve the problem.

Thoughts?

Here's a video that both explains the problem and how to install the extensions. The difference between the video install and my situation is that I have a skid that will need possible trimming or removal:

[schwalby]

From watching the video it looks like the exhaust extensions will help with half the drive shaft issue. It solves the rubbing on the exhaust cross over. The recommendation of replacing the drive shaft is because of the drive shaft angle with a lift.

I have always gone with Tom Wood's drive shafts and love them, never even priced out any other brands.

[Kurt]

... I read recently that if the quick disconnects are not disconnected, that there shouldn't be an issue. Do you think this will work until I can find a way to install the extensions?

It may or it may not.
The only way to know for sure is to jack up your rig and allow the front axle to go to full drop with the disco's connected.

[RalphTomaccio]

Help!

I went to a garage that I trust to see if they could install the exhaust spacers and, after putting it on the lift, they said they wouldn't do it. Their reason was that the transfer case skid had to come off and the bolt head protectors used looked crushed against the bolt heads and difficult to remove. Here are a couple photos to show the problem. I think PART of the problem is that they are filled with mud and not necessarily crushed:





There are 6 of them in total. Assuming even after cleaning them out a socket cannot fit in, the only way I can think of to remove the bolts is to weld the end of another bolt onto the head of the skid bolt and use that to remove each. And, if this amount of work has to be done, I highly question the value of putting in JUST the exhaust extensions. I'm afraid they won't be sufficient and end up being a waste of time.

So . . . I'm seriously considering getting a new front drive shaft that I understand will definitely solve the problem. I hear nothing but good things about Tom Woods. Is there any other brand that can/should be considered?

This is all new territory for me and I haven't researched it fully. I understand Tom Woods can supply a good fit by application information only but believe they can get the best fit if you will supply a simple length measurement. How much work is there to get this measurement and does the drive shaft have to be taken out to do so?

And I thought I'd be ready to go after getting the lift installed! HA! Joke's on me.

[Kurt]

I assume those protectors are aluminum since they are not rusted. Way too soft a metal to use under a Jeep that see's rocks.
If it were mine... I'd clean the mud out of there and then use a narrow-ish chisel and tap it in between the bolt head and the protector next to each flat of the bolt head to push the smooshed aluminum away from the bolt heads. Clean any remaining mud out. Then tap/pound in a thin wall socket and remove the bolts.
One could also use a dremel to hog out a space next to the bolt heads.

Tom Wood makes nice stuff. So does Tatton's. I've used both and have been equally pleased.
Tom paints his stuff black (not a good paint job though)
Tatton's seems to be somewhat less expensive and ships his custom shafts out quick.

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

I'm not as convinced with the Tatton. I've had a couple woods shafts in the front of this TJ and the first and had no issues. I have a Tatton in the rear of this one and can't seem to eliminate some driveline vibrations. Rear pinion is set to about 0-2*. I somewhat question the balance, but have yet to check it out. The operating angle on the TJ versus JKU will be quite different though.

[FSHJNKY]

I have coast front and rears in mine. Got them through Eric at Northridge who gave me a good price with fast, free shipping. Let me know if you need his info.


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[SevenXL]

I got a set of Adams shafts from Northridge.
Adams has great reviews, excellent customer service and cheaper then the others (at the time I bought them anyway)
I got the Extreme Duty 1310 with solid Spicer joints.

I had the same thing happen to one of those washers on my skids. They are aluminum and like Kurt said, you can use a chisel or Dremel to get a socket on them no problem.

[FSHJNKY]

Chris now that you say that I remember that Coast was bought by Adams shortly after I got my driveshafts.


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[RalphTomaccio]

I've begun looking at drive shafts and there appear to be a number of companies getting good reviews. Looking at Adams and was wondering if someone could explain to me how I would decide between two that appear to be suitable for a 2012 JKU.

One is DRIVESHAFT FLANGE STYLE
http://www.northridge4x4.com/drivetrain ... 1310f-ssl?

The other is DRIVESHAFT W/ T-CASE YOKE & PINION YOKE
http://www.northridge4x4.com/drivetrain ... 10f-ss2yl?

Is one better than the other and, if so, how?

Do I have a choice? How do I determine which is the one I need?

I'm thinking that a 1310 should be sufficient for my needs, no?

[schwalby]

Tom Woods is doing a contest right now for a $150 gift certificate. Need to be on Instagram though.

[FSHJNKY]

I couldn't help you there Ralph. I would recommended calling Eric at Northridge. He's a smart guy with a lot of solid info and has helped me pick out lots of mods. He is not a pressure salesman.


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[SevenXL]

Not sure which is stronger or better but I went with the 1310 flange style on my JK.
One less step and it was a good flat surface for my angle finder to dial in my pinion angle.

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

Does the OEM driveshaft have a flat flange? or is it a typical yoke that accepts a ujoint?

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

Try going to adamsdriveshaftoffroad.com Prices are the same and i think you can get free tshirts with them.