Lets talk LCG and suspension options :)

[Hoodoo Man]

As a lot of you know my Jeeps frame has been patched and re-patched and now has even more rot. It the second frame on my 97 and this was put in back in 2010 and is a 02 frame, Im done patching it, its junk to me.

I'm very fortunate to have been approached by Nic Szliger who is in the process of starting a new company specializing in fabrication and frames. He is building me a boxed frame out of stout 2"x4"x 3/16" thick box tube and 2" DOM. I plan to go LCG and keep the 1" BL and do a 2-2.5" coil lift. My question is what should I do to keep it running well. We are stretching the front forward at least 3" to give me a Kurt like approach angle. I don't think I want to go coil overs. but I am debating to go with a strut, coil or coil in the front and leafs in the rear. What works and what doesn't for this set up? Any thoughts are welcome to help me make an informed decision. I am leaning toward struts or coils with a long or mid arm. No factory parts are on my Jeep aside the D44 f/r and I may just pop for a spooled 9" rear and sell my D44 with ARB trussed and long armed....

Thanks, its being torn down now so its not an idyll thought thing... Goal is to be completed by end of April or May 9th the latest....

[Hoodoo Man]

Kurt what did you put in your beastly YJ? You happy with them? Most likely will go 2.5" BDS coils but wanted to see what else may work...

[Kurt]

Jeff,
I used 14" Fox 2.5" Air Shocks.
Very please with them. Nice thing is you can adjust them with a squirt of Nitrogen.

I have a tank of Nitrogen as well as the regulator, pressure gauge and chuck need to adjust them should you go that route.

[Hoodoo Man]

Jeff,
I used 14" Fox 2.5" Air Shocks.
Very please with them. Nice thing is you can adjust them with a squirt of Nitrogen.

I have a tank of Nitrogen as well as the regulator, pressure gauge and chuck need to adjust them should you go that route.

Is that 4 linked in the rear and do you know what the 14" is equal to in terms of lift over stock?

[Kurt]

The 14" spec is the travel distance. I forget what the length is compressed/uncompressed.

[Frank]

My take on this Jeff . I personally wouldnt Trade the 44 for a 9". Yes the 9 is super strong. Reason is the pinion is very low and in danger. Tru Hi 9 has a center section for the 9" that makes it a high pinion. I have no knowledge of any one that can let you know how they work. Unless your going bigger than 36/37" tires , the 44 will be fine. Its the front you should replace. Either a Rubi 44 or aftermarket. 3" stretch in front will be great after you configure new steering box location,steering shaft and at least a new drag link. Only way around that will be full hydraulic steering. No more street. As for the coil/leaf thing . Ask any Cherokee owner how that works. I went the other way with leafs in the front and coils in the rear. I think some of the feeling of stability has gone away but the amount of flex I get is crazy. Just my opinion. FjR68

[Hoodoo Man]

Frank I have a Rubi D44 front and rear already with Chromolly shafts in the rear and RCVs in the front.... Probably going with the fox stuff Kurt has and may go bigger than 35" next set in a few years. Figure if I do the rear now while Nic has it, it can all be arranged from the beginning.

Ken has a friend that builds 9" rears in any configuration / width for what he said is reasonable money. I need to get the contact info and talk to the guy. Figure a spool in the rear keeps cost down and the front should be sorted for my near term use with the RCV axle shafts. Hopefully can recoup some decent $$ by selling the long arms and D44 w ARB.... What is the preferred beefier spline count for the 9" ??

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

I can't add a ton to the discussion, but I'm running a set of springs currently that I am very happy with. I got most of the information from a friend who read this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/more- ... ics/912302

The springs I went with are:
Front Moog CC784
Rear Moog CC805

I haven't confirmed lift height, but it's around 2.5-3".

I'm also running bilstein 5100 shocks and it seems to be a great combo.

[Baseshakers]

I'm always a fan of mid arms. In the NE I see guys get stuck on suspension components all the time. If we had traction to "pull through" it would be a different story, but I've seen rigs stuck where a long arm is just catching a rock, the tires are in our lovely NE grease, and the rig is stuck. Unless you're going 40s or more stick mid arm, you want clearance under there.

[Hoodoo Man]

thanks Ish!
@ Ryan what is your axle set up? I seem to recall you having high pinon front and rear....

[Frank]

The spool is a great way to go. IMO , selectables have a major advantage in helping us turn in the woods. (unlock) Everything Ive read is a 44 will handle 37s and still be reliable. Also have the capability to get high into the 5s for gearing. Having the rear 4 linked is a great way to go. Even if down the road if you remove the gas tank for a Cell , you can always move the rear axle backward having only to extend you links. On a 9" , 31 spline was the most from the factory. There are Co. producing 35 spline parts. I think in stock form , other than the pinion , the 9" has more clearance than say a 60. If you look at a buggy ,they dont sit the same as a frame vehicle. All of the drive train is above the chassis and the links are out side the chassis. We dont have that option as our axles arent that wide so everything is hung underneath. You wont need as much lift as you go to bigger tires , but just the same , if you dont move them outbound (wider axles) you end up cutting the beast apart. Kurts transition was well thought out and most everything done at the same time. Doing it a little at a time might bite you in the butt. It comes down to what you choose for a game plan. Good luck with that Bud. Again Just spouting off on something I know little about. FjR68

[Baseshakers]

Jeff, yep, I have basically a TJ rubi Dana 44 (30 stubs) but with thick tubes and a high pinion center. The rear is a high pinion semi-float 60 originally built for a wide track CJ (so I use spacers/adapters) The rear DS angle is awesome, and I rarely hit it now.

[BlackNBlue-ISH]

I can't add a ton to the discussion, but I'm running a set of springs currently that I am very happy with. I got most of the information from a friend who read this thread: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/more- ... ics/912302

The springs I went with are:
Front Moog CC784
Rear Moog CC805

I haven't confirmed lift height, but it's around 2.5-3".

I'm also running bilstein 5100 shocks and it seems to be a great combo.

Just had a thought... A coil spring set up would be great in my opinion just because you can swap out the shocks and springs later for a different ride height/performance for not a lot of initial investment. The coils I listed above go for $62 and $66 per pair for a total of $128. Free shipping with amazon prime. Some simple shocks and you'd not be out a tonne of money, but it would get you set up and running. The coils/shocks could be upgraded to taller/shorter and different spring rates at a later time if these don't pan out. With a more expensive option like Kurt's, I would think you need a more defined vision for the end goal.

Just my .02